Water leaking down to passenger side floor (19 Viewers)

[gummycarbs]

I'm in Oregon and have sunroof leakage issues. I cleaned the roof thoroughly, then ran electrical tape around the perimeter of the sunroof, bridging from the metal roof to the sunroof seal.

It kept water out all winter and stayed put until at least summer, when I removed it.

 

[Newbie2the80s]

Ive dealt with a wet passenger carpet. Mine was mostly the windshield and it was easily visible in the inside corner once I got over the sunroof drain hurdle. While I was investigating this I cleaned the the sunroof drains and rerouted the drains out of the rocker panel. The sunroof drains are designed to handle whatever water gets through a "good" sunroof seal. Most of these old trucks have sunroof seals that are not as tight as when new....too much water through the seal overwhelms the drains and spills out of the sunroof tray. It ends up in the headliner and will run down the pillar just like yours does... Its easy to replicate; open the sunroof and pour water in the tray until it overflows....when I did this it came right down the pillar. I shimmed the sunroof seal similar to the bicycle tube method and also replaced the little foam dams in the tray corners. In the end I had two leak zones...the poorly sealed sunroof and primarily the windshield...the windshield puts the water closer to the firewall but still some inside the pillar. I used and recommend the FIRETRUCK method to reseal the windshield to its gasket.

What is this firetruck method? The leak puddle is about right when the floor gets flat. Almost directly under the bottom corner of the windshield. Same with yours?

 

[retlaw]

What is this firetruck method? The leak puddle is about right when the floor gets flat. Almost directly under the bottom corner of the windshield. Same with yours?

Look very closely at the windshield inside corners. Your pic of the pillar leak seems more likely the sunroof pan but water leaks are tricky to pinpoint. FIRETRUCK posted a method to seal the windshield using polyurethane roof sealant. Its worked for many.

 

[Newbie2the80s]

I used NP1 sealant, but there are other good choices. I think you don’t want to use silicon, if I recall correctly? Probably still works.

I didn’t care to fix my worn out sunroof seal and don’t care about being able to open it. With it open, I ran a bead around the inner edge of the opening, closed it to seal to the sunroof itself, and then ran a bead around the seam on top. The switch for the motor shares a connector with the dome light, so you pop the dome light cover off, undo the connector, and pull the corresponding pins. This way you still have a dome light, but can’t accidentally open the sunroof and break the seal. That was my mistake & why I had to reseal it..

Rocker panels are the bottom edge of the vehicle between the wheels - they’re what rock sliders protect, or if stock, it’s the bottom edge that your running boards hang down from.

From under the truck, you’ll see where the front floor drain plug is, and the sunroof drain hole is near there on the inner side of the rocker panel. I’ll see if I can find my picture. The drain hose itself goes down into the rockers, and the little slit in the pinch weld is where water drains. Very small, so easily clogged.

For my windshield, I ran a bead of sealant around each seam, both on the glass side & body side. No leaks ever since.

I just sealed my sunroof and now popped off the switch cover. What wires do I pop off. All but the one white and black stripe one im guessing?

 

[SpenserAK]

Instead take off the whole gray panel to access the connector itself. Just double checked mine to make sure I remembered correctly - all you want left in the connector is the gray (to bulb) and the white w/ black (to light switch), just pop the connector & remove the other pins. I believe I used a paper clip to release the little tab for each pin

 

[Newbie2the80s]

Instead take off the whole gray panel to access the connector itself. Just double checked mine to make sure I remembered correctly - all you want left in the connector is the gray (to bulb) and the white w/ black (to light switch), just pop the connector & remove the other pins. I believe I used a paper clip to release the little tab for each pin

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Rt on thankyou