Water inside the rear passenger door. (1 Viewer)

[flykas]

So I found but of threads about tailgate leak (which I have also), but not about passenger door leak. My problem is that water gets into rear passenger door (right) and I can feel it int the pocket of the door that it is drenched also the bottom of the door card is deformed from being constantly wet. At first I thought it was those technical holes at the front of the door, because car was repainted and many caps and plugs were lost.. so I repluged them, but water is still coming in. Another side door is fine. Where should I start?

Thanks

 

[excessive]

sit inside the truck while someone else sprays the outside with a hose, at least you can get an idea of where it might be coming from.

 

[badlander]

I had the same issue with the result being a damaged door card. My leak was because of 2 issues.
1, the lower window trim where the quarter window rubber meets the bottom rubber had a sizable gap, I guess from shrinkage due to age. This allowed more water to enter the inside of the door than normal.
2, the vapor barrier had voids in the attachment butyl along the rear and bottom edges.
So, what was happening was the water leaked into the door through the gap in the moulding rubber then dripped onto the vapor barrier, which would normally contain the water within the door to eventually drain out the bottom holes, but in my case the water ran down the vapor barrier and then dripprd out into the bottom of the door card.
The solution was to apply black rtv sealant to fill the gap in the window glass rubber trim and also to remove the vapor barrier, clean off all of the old butyl from the vapor barrier and door, and reapply it with new butyl.
I also repaired the door card by allowing it to dry out for a few days and then saturating the damaged part with epoxy resin and added some fiberglass cloth in a few spots fot reinforcement.
I removed and replaced the butyl on all 3 other doors as a prevention measure.

 

[badlander]

These pics show where I applied the black rtv and the butyl I used which is available thru NAPA. The best thing I found to remove the old butyl was WD40. Believe me when I say it was no easy task! Not something I would want to do again. Good luck!

 

[flykas]

Thank yoy very much for the instruction. My door card looks exactly like that

 

[flykas]

Only got up to do this now, but I can't find butyl in liquid form, all I can find are butyl strips so maybe I'll use that, or maybe you could suggest some other adhesive? Also, while I am dong this, maybe it would be a good idea to upgrade this vapor barrier by using something better than polietilene? Maybe to add more sound deadening and insulation? Or it isn't worth it?

 

[rbrave]

Super cheap maintenance item - aftermarket window belt moldings can be had for $40 for the entire set. While I’m normally all for OEM, I don’t even think you can get one of them for $40. Very fast to replace and makes a world of difference to have them looking like new trim. Mine have only been on for four months, but no issues to date.

Outside Window Belt Moulding Weatherstrip For Toyota Land Cruiser Lexus 98-07 | eBay

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series 1998-2007. Lexus LX470 1998-2007. Fit For the Following Models. -Our warranty is valid for max. 24 months without mileage limitation. OEM Part Number. Vehicle Information.

www.ebay.com

Or Amazon: https://a.co/d/eLyJ3dL

 

[baltistyle]

Super cheap maintenance item - aftermarket window belt moldings can be had for $40 for the entire set. While I’m normally all for OEM, I don’t even think you can get one of them for $40. Very fast to replace and makes a world of difference to have them looking like new trim. Mine have only been on for four months, but no issues to date.

Outside Window Belt Moulding Weatherstrip For Toyota Land Cruiser Lexus 98-07 | eBay

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series 1998-2007. Lexus LX470 1998-2007. Fit For the Following Models. -Our warranty is valid for max. 24 months without mileage limitation. OEM Part Number. Vehicle Information.

www.ebay.com

Or Amazon: https://a.co/d/eLyJ3dL

This is the correct solution. Replace these trim pieces and use butyl gasket for the vapor barrier. I did oem from Dubai for about a hundred bucks. The four door trims take less than twenty minutes to replace plus some cleaning time. Don’t start using rtv, that will only mask the problem, and is not the correct way to do a repair, similar to how some people rtv their sunroofs, . Might as well start applying rtv to cracks in leather seats and to the outside of engine leaks…then start a YouTube channel flipping vehicles with shoddy repairs.

 

[flykas]

Thanks guys, that is helpful. But one more question. How do you detach the power cable and the handle from the door to apply new vapor barrier, or you didn't have to do it? Because mine is all torn.

 

[rbrave]

If there are no screws visible, they are clipped in.

Could you do me a favor while you are in the rear door and snap a picture with a ruler next to the service cutouts? I am in the process of redoing my sound deadening, making block out panels rather than attaching the vapor barrier. I started in the front and it was significantly more time consuming/complex than I had anticipated…

 

[flykas]

If there are no screws visible, they are clipped in.

Could you do me a favor while you are in the rear door and snap a picture with a ruler next to the service cutouts? I am in the process of redoing my sound deadening, making block out panels rather than attaching the vapor barrier. I started in the front and it was significantly more time consuming/complex than I had anticipated…

Maybe too late, but here it is. Its in cm.

 

[flykas]

Do you have ideas how to fix this moldy area? Structurally its ok, but I just want to get rid of the health hazard.

 

[rbrave]

Yuck. I would hit it with soapy water, then dilute bleach, then clean water. I just treated my panels for sound deadening, and sealed them with a 1:1 mix of water and wood glue. I used tightbond III, which is meant for outdoor use. Worked great, and was much better to stick other materials to after 24h. To be honest, you probably could do it undiluted.

 

[baltistyle]

Do you have ideas how to fix this moldy area? Structurally its ok, but I just want to get rid of the health hazard. View attachment 3810893

For mold, use a product that contains concrobium. Hydrogen peroxide or bleach might have too much of a bleaching action when used at the appropriate rates. A Thyme oil formulation is also able to be used.

For the vapor barrier, anything that needs to penetrate through it is able to be unclipped. Just make sure that you don’t install the vapor barrier so tight at the top that it interferes with the door handle pull.