Warping rotors..... (1 Viewer)

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Wiff's '98 Yukon has been warping rotors at a clip. Get maybe 10K before the shakes set in. Tried OEM, Bembro and other aftermarket rotors and they all suck. Last time I replaced the calipers, thinking they were sticking and causing it to heat up the rotors.
The AP store is always nice to take them back but WTF do I buy???????
:meh:

And, NO she does not ride the brake.
 
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OK, I'll respond to my own post.....
GM likes to attach the flex lines with metal straps and eventually they rust between the flex hose and the inside of the band and effectively squeeze the rubber hose, acting like a residual valve and keeping too much pressure on the caliper.
Next up, replace the hoses and use different hold-downs.
Film at 11
 
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And, NO she does not ride the brake.

Yeah, right.:rolleyes:

Okay, maybe you've got simpler issues such as a brake pedal that's not returning to the proper height because the cheap*ss return spring has stretched? Internal rust in the lines/calipers is another possibility. Most folks don't change out their brake fluid often enough. It will suck water into the system from the atmosfear. Could the MC have a rust/wear ridge in the cylinder bore that isn't allowing the pistons to return to the neutral position?

The flex lines are easy to replace and maybe there's an internal tear that's acting like a flapper valve but it would only affect one side or the other... unless you've got a single flex line from the frame to the axle like on your 40 and the problem is there. I'd be looking elsewhere, though.
 
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I will be changing the disc on the PS side of my '98 suburban today. I would have done it last week with the DS one but the hub bolt striped and I will need to weld a new head on it to get it removed.

This will be the third set of discs I have put on. My burb has a diesel (very heavy) and I thought that was the problem. What engine in your wife's Yukon.

It is a well known problem, and many people say to use drilled and or grooved discs. I am going with new calipers and semi-metalic pads this time.

I don't ride the brake at all, and hardly ever tow, and use the engine to brake as much as possible. This is the first time I have heard the rusty bracket on the line pinching it closed theory , I'll pay special attention to the flex lines.

I have also read that the rear drums often get out of adjustment and leave 99% of the braking to the front, ergo extra work and heat causing warping.
 
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I have also read that the rear drums often get out of adjustment and leave 99% of the braking to the front, ergo extra work and heat causing warping.

That sounds like the culprit. MAybe the proportioning valve is'nt doing its job anymore?

Degnol - Glad you got it fixed:clap:
 

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