Warn Zeon 12 in ARB Bumper

[HTownWill]

I am going to be installing a Warn Zeon 12 into an arb bumper on my 80. I have to clock the clutch handle so that I can access it from the top of the winch since it sits feet forward in the bumper. Does it matter which way I rotate the winch housing after removing the bolts on the side? Counterclockwise or clockwise? I can’t seem to find any info on this, everything just says remove the screws and turn and put screws back in. Counterclockwise would be less distance turn the housing.

I also will be installing spacers and a controller pack relocation kit. Just waiting on the relocation kit to arrive.

Anyone seen this winch in the arb bumper? I couldn’t find anywhere it being done. Not sure how to mount the controlder pack to the bumper yet either

Thanks

 

[Jimmy D]

Yes, I just had this winch installed. You will need to clock the clutch and use a relo kit (as stated) BUT you will need TWO spacer kits for the winch to clear the bumper, as the winch is very wide (pictures below)

 

[duggy]

Does not matter if you clock the winch counter-clockwise or clockwise. As long as it lines back up with the mounting holes.

 

[Get4Lo]

I clocked counter clockwise and required minimum 1” spacer due to width of winch.

 

[HTownWill]

Thanks for the info guys. I reclocked the winch and got the controller pack wired up with the extension kit. I haven’t attempted to install it yet. I have been trying to figure out where to mount the controller. I cut and painted a piece of steel to mount it on the light holes above the winch space but I dunno if I like it. I have these rugged ridge spacers that are just over 3/4” I am hoping they do the trick for spacing the winch back. Maybe cheat with a couple washers? Heading out of town for a week tomorrow but I’m gonna give it a shot to install when I come back.

 

[LINUS]

The bigger issue than clocking either direction is to wind the cable to work most inline with the opening for the fairlead.

In my case with the ARB you want to feed / pull from underside the spool to lineup the rope with the opening for the hawse fairlead.

I think it was the same for when I had steel rope/roller fairlead, but I went rope/hawse on all but my quad now.

 

[Jimmy D]

Thanks for the info guys. I reclocked the winch and got the controller pack wired up with the extension kit. I haven’t attempted to install it yet. I have been trying to figure out where to mount the controller. I cut and painted a piece of steel to mount it on the light holes above the winch space but I dunno if I like it. I have these rugged ridge spacers that are just over 3/4” I am hoping they do the trick for spacing the winch back. Maybe cheat with a couple washers? Heading out of town for a week tomorrow but I’m gonna give it a shot to install when I come back.

View attachment 1717788

you'll need every bit of an inch on each side, i'll remeasure mine and let you know where I shook out - not sure you want to use washers, as you may create substantial pressure points under load, especially if you're doing anything thats pushing the limits of a 12K winch... just a thought, but let me know how it shakes out if you do

 

[HRTROB]

@Jimmy D @HTownWill I'm about to get the Zeon 12s and have a couple of questions, hopefully you can chime in:

1. Do I need the long or short Warn relocation kit?

2. Do I need longer bolts for use with the spacers or are the included bolts long enough?

Thanks!

 

[Jimmy D]

@Jimmy D @HTownWill I'm about to get the Zeon 12s and have a couple of questions, hopefully you can chime in:

1. Do I need the long or short Warn relocation kit?

2. Do I need longer bolts for use with the spacers or are the included bolts long enough?

Thanks!

Unless you're going to mount the control pack somewhere else on the bumper (not sure why would, but to each their own), you'll need the long relo kit. You'll need longer hardware. I can re-measure the length of the bolts I used, but it'll depend on what you end up using for spacers.

Hope that helps...

 

[HRTROB]

Unless you're going to mount the control pack somewhere else on the bumper (not sure why would, but to each their own), you'll need the long relo kit. You'll need longer hardware. I can re-measure the length of the bolts I used, but it'll depend on what you end up using for spacers.

Hope that helps...

Thanks for the input! I plan on mounting the control pack in front of the grille, in between the mounts for the spot lights. I thought the short relocation would be enough for that mounting but if you say I need the longer relocarion kit then I'll get that. Do you know where I can get the longer bolts? I plan on using an ARB winch spacer set combined with the Rigged ridge 11540.15 winch spacer the OP used

 

[EconomistAZ]

I am in the process of installing a Warn Zeon 12s into my ARB Deluxe Bull Bumper on a 1996 80 Series. I just wanted to provide the following observations to anyone that will be in the same boat.

1. The amount of space needed between the foot of the winch and the front of the bumper is more than 1 inch. To be safe, I would recommend a 1.25 inch spacer.
2. The factory spacer supplied cannot be used as a template to make the bigger spacer(s). The bolt holes at the foot of the winch are 4.5 inches apart, center-to-center. I did not find any spacers available on a quick online search. So, I made my own.
3. When clocking the winch, it is best to simply turn the end cap after all the screws have been pulled. Avoid the temptation to lift it up and see what is going on inside. Just trust me, it works perfectly well to just turn it. If you lift it up, there is a shaft that disengages from the planetary gears. That was an extended session of increasing frustration trying to align the center shaft with 3 independently rotating gears that are on a shifting stack of other gears. If you do make the same mistake as I did, pull the shaft out of the end cap, insert the shaft down into the planetary gears and then work the end cap back on by rotating it clockwise and counterclockwise until it seats. Obviously, make sure it is all the way down before putting the screws back in.
4. The Warn hawse fairlead does not align with the opening in the bumper. You will need to purchase an offset fairlead.
5. None of the factory mounting hardware will have long enough bolts for the amount of spacing required. Depending on the fairlead width, you will two longer bolts around M10x 1.5 x 70 to 80 mm. At that length, I would recommend going with 10.9 hardness bolts. Just make sure the bolts do not hit the drum once fully bolted down. For me, i have a 1.5 inch thick fairlead. It is double the thickness of the one that came in the Warn kit. The top two bolts will be shorter. Again, make sure they do not hit the drum.
6. Once I am finished, I will post up some photos.

Cheers!
-EconomistAZ

NOTE: I would rate this a 2 Banana job, due to the challenges of making the spacers. I used T6 aluminum fabbed up on a mill (to be precise on the center-to-center spacing)

 

[HTownWill]

Here’s some photos of it now with the little plate I made to mount the controller.

 

[HTownWill]

In the last photo you can see the bolt that holds the whole assembly to the bumper. There is one behind each light. They are a couple inches behind the spot where the lights are mounted. The photo with the rusty washers shows the bracket that came with the relocation kit bolted to the top of the plate I made. The measurements are as best as I could take. Hard to get in there with everything all mounted.