Warn XD9000i first run, bad ground (1 Viewer)

[K Dub]

My truck came with a winch, I've identified as an XD9000i, but no controller and the power cable disconnected. I had other priorities to handle, but this weekend I was tired of all my bumper-bling being non-functional, so I finally wired up the lights to a dash switch and fused power source, and set about firing up the winch

Externally it's in good condition, the clutch lever moves smoothly. The power cable is hard wired to the unit, no lug, and the cable is far too long for this car, so it's bundled up in the battery box. I'd like to trim it up and add an isolation switch, but I've never worked with that gauge, or anything near it. Anyhow, I wired it up to the positive battery terminal for now. I plugged in a new controller, and when I first hit >out I heard a single click then nothing. No more clicking in either direction.

I tested for ground between the small ground lug on the motor and my (-) battery and had no circuit. With a jumper cable between those points the winch worked like a charm. I tested the four mounting bolts to the bumper and only the two on the clutch side had good grounds. That's confusing me.

Anyhow, I had my old starter to (+)battery lying around, and I ran it from that lug on the motor to my frame and my winch works like a charm. I didn't have enough cable to return to the battery, but a ground's a ground right?

Like I said, the winch works now and didn't before, but I'm still confused and a little worried. Is this an okay setup, should I troubleshoot why it isn't grounding to the bumper? Is there a risk from running a ground jumper to the frame instead of the battery? Should I use another spot than the little ground stud on the motor?

This is my first time with a winch, so sorry for the total n00b questions. I went this long without dealing with it because I know so little about them.

 

[73fj40lc]

My truck came with a winch, I've identified as an XD9000i, but no controller and the power cable disconnected. I had other priorities to handle, but this weekend I was tired of all my bumper-bling being non-functional, so I finally wired up the lights to a dash switch and fused power source, and set about firing up the winch

Externally it's in good condition, the clutch lever moves smoothly. The power cable is hard wired to the unit, no lug, and the cable is far too long for this car, so it's bundled up in the battery box. I'd like to trim it up and add an isolation switch, but I've never worked with that gauge, or anything near it. Anyhow, I wired it up to the positive battery terminal for now. I plugged in a new controller, and when I first hit >out I heard a single click then nothing. No more clicking in either direction.

I tested for ground between the small ground lug on the motor and my (-) battery and had no circuit. With a jumper cable between those points the winch worked like a charm. I tested the four mounting bolts to the bumper and only the two on the clutch side had good grounds. That's confusing me.

Anyhow, I had my old starter to (+)battery lying around, and I ran it from that lug on the motor to my frame and my winch works like a charm. I didn't have enough cable to return to the battery, but a ground's a ground right?

Like I said, the winch works now and didn't before, but I'm still confused and a little worried. Is this an okay setup, should I troubleshoot why it isn't grounding to the bumper? Is there a risk from running a ground jumper to the frame instead of the battery? Should I use another spot than the little ground stud on the motor?

This is my first time with a winch, so sorry for the total n00b questions. I went this long without dealing with it because I know so little about them.

The winch isn't intended to really ground to the bumper. The frame of the winch can be a ground if you have a really good contact and you have a sufficient sized vehicle ground cable. Your winch should be grounded straight to your battery. If something happens to your vehicles frame ground and your winch is activated you can potentially damage your vehicles electronics if you don't have your winch grounded straight to your battery. Grounding straight to your battery keeps most or all of the voltage going to your battery and away from your vehicles sensitive electronics and ground cable. Some vehicles have undersized ground cables from the factory because it isn't set up for a high draw device like a winch. This is the whole reason Warn and other winch companies provide a long ground cable.

 

[K Dub]

This is the whole reason Warn and other winch companies provide a long ground cable.

There's the rub, thanks. I downloaded the factory manual, duh, and it shows a lead from the (-)battery to the same little lug that I'm using on the motor housing. I guess I was picturing something a bit beefier for a main ground lug but at least I got that much right. I'm going to leave it hooked up as is for now, my chassis grounds were replaced with a @Fourrunner kit a couple months ago which is why I had the oem starter cable lying around to re-purpose. I'll continue not using it until I tackle the larger wiring project that I have in store, but at least I know it could work.

I'm thankful that I got to take up some slack, it'd been bothering me since I got the truck. Thanks again for the reply.

 

[73fj40lc]

There's the rub, thanks. I downloaded the factory manual, duh, and it shows a lead from the (-)battery to the same little lug that I'm using on the motor housing. I guess I was picturing something a bit beefier for a main ground lug but at least I got that much right. I'm going to leave it hooked up as is for now, my chassis grounds were replaced with a @Fourrunner kit a couple months ago which is why I had the oem starter cable lying around to re-purpose. I'll continue not using it until I tackle the larger wiring project that I have in store, but at least I know it could work.

I'm thankful that I got to take up some slack, it'd been bothering me since I got the truck. Thanks again for the reply.

Find the bolt diameter you have on the winch and battery. Measure the length of cable you need and go to the nearest welding shop and get a 2 ga. ground cable made up. It won't be cheap because of the price of copper or you can PM Warn on the forum to get a cable from them. Warn is a authorized Mud vendor.

 

[K Dub]

I don't love the idea of running without a fuse or breaker of some sort, so like I said "bigger wiring project in store". The positive was actually hooked up when I got the truck but when I saw how long that cable was I pulled it for safety's sake. It sure looks like a liability to have an unprotected circuit on the front of your vehicle, but again I'm new to all this winch stuff.

So I'm picturing a custom length ground cable plus trimming the built-in positive down, plus a high amp switch, and another short hop to the (+)battery? I'd like to put an auxiliary fuse box inside, maybe an amp, so another couple of long runs. This is adding up...

I need to rip out my PAIR system and get another battery in on the action. Oh God, I'm spiraling out of control...

I just wanted my bumper lights to work.

 

[73fj40lc]

I hope this helps you out. I have the XD9000I on both my Z71 and my FJ40. I bought the one on my Z71 new in 1993. I originally had it on a 1993 Toyota 4x4 V6 pickup and it ended up on my Z71 after I sold the Toyota pickup. The XD9000I on my 40 I bought from a friend. He bought it new in 1992 and I completely re built it. I have a cut off switch already installed on my 40. I have all the parts to rebuild my 1993 XD9000I and a cutoff switch and cable ready to on my Z71. I haven't had any issues with it so I am holding off re building it and installing the cut off switch until I get some more time. Here are some pics that I hope might help you get a visual of how mine are wired. You have the three black connections on top of the motor and the main ground cable on the bottom of the motor running back to the battery. I also included a pic of the additional Warn power cable I have ready to run from the switch back to the battery. The Blue Sea switch has high amp ratings and will handle everything the winch can throw at it.

 

[73fj40lc]

Just for your info. This is the amp Ratings on the XD9000I off the warn website.

 

[K Dub]

I hope this helps you out. I have the XD9000I on both my Z71 and my FJ40. I bought the one on my Z71 new in 1993. I originally had it on a 1993 Toyota 4x4 V6 pickup and it ended up on my Z71 after I sold the Toyota pickup. The XD9000I on my 40 I bought from a friend. He bought it new in 1992 and I completely re built it. I have a cut off switch already installed on my 40. I have all the parts to rebuild my 1993 XD9000I and a cutoff switch and cable ready to on my Z71. I haven't had any issues with it so I am holding off re building it and installing the cut off switch until I get some more time. Here are some pics that I hope might help you get a visual of how mine are wired. You have the three black connections on top of the motor and the main ground cable on the bottom of the motor running back to the battery. I also included a pic of the additional Warn power cable I have ready to run from the switch back to the battery. The Blue Sea switch has high amp ratings and will handle everything the winch can throw at it.

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Thanks so much for taking the time with me. My motor looks a little different than either of those, but that's the one. Mine's buried sideways in my ARB on an 80, so everything's twisted and cramped. It took a bit to find that ground lug at first because it's at the front of the vehicle facing the bumper plate. I've even watched a couple of rebuild videos prior to working, but they've been off the vehicle so I didn't see the mounted wiring. I really respect what these things do, but I have seen enough YouTube videos to know that they can kill you dead if you get it wrong, so I've been in no hurry to go get stuck.

 

[73fj40lc]

A winch is just like a loaded gun. It the right hands it is completely safe but in the wrong or inexperienced hands it will kill you. Just follow your basic safety protocols and don't let anyone stand anywhere near the cable or vehicle when you are winching. When winching drape a floor mat or something similar over the cable to absorb some of the energy if the cable breaks. If winching from inside the cab and you can properly see open your hood to protect you if the cable comes loose or snaps.