Wanre M10000 TLC

[Tinman]

Reading through some of the threads has motivated me to pull it appart and see how its fairing. Its been on the 75 for about 19 years, has done a little work but not alot, has been drowned plenty of times and I had always wondered how much that would affect it.

So I have pulled it off and started to strip it down. The winch appears to be working fine but has not been tryed under load for a few years now. Most of the bolts holding both the bar and winch were starting to corrode a bit so they will all get a good clean up and a smear of boating grease before going back in.

The motor side is pretty clean and appears that it is seal reasonably well. I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong about that.

The drum is a little rust but nothing a good clean would not fix. I have always been pretty pedantic with the cable so it seems pretty good. No needling, no kinking only the odd defect but nothing to be concerned about other than the eye which I will get reswaged. THe eye has no thimble and has flattened at the hook pin.

The gearbox side? Well? It needs a little work. It has obviously been full of water and mud and that appears to be mixed with a bit of grease that has probably limited the amount of corrossion. I have uploaded a couple of pics so hopefuly it works.


Havenot stipped it down any further yet but when I do I will try and post some more pics.

In the mean time I have a couple of questions.

Do ppl use grease on the drum bushes and if so what sort?

How mush endplay should be between the drum and the casing? Should the nylon/plastic washes be loose, snug or tight?

What sort of grease in the gear box is recommended?

any tips befor I start pulling it down?

 

[greentruck]

Let me guess. Which end was down? Yuch, looks quite the mess.

I tend to use my winch, when I have one, a lot like you. I want it to be ready when I need it, even if that's a year from now.

I started a thread that, in part, was intended to address exactly this sort of problem in planetary design winches. Here's the link:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/winching-recovery/371911-waterproofing-winch.html

Lots more details in it, mostly speculative and experimental on my part -- testing has commenced. I think it applies to all such winches, even if you paid for the best. Your pics are evidence of the issue of internal corrosion needing more attention across the board considering the cost of these things.

The short is that most winches seem to come packed with lithium-based greases, which tends to attract and hold moisture. I speculate that using a moly-based grease could help with this, since it tends to repel water. The Cat grease I used is available in a hi-temp formulation that might come in handy in Australia and may be available as close as your Cat dealer. But that could be a ways.

I wonder if there's something that would take the corrosion off without causing other problems, maybe in an ultrasonic bath?

I am curious if you spent any time on the beach or whether this occurred far from salt water?

 

[Tinman]

Let me guess. Which end was down? Yuch, looks quite the mess.


I wonder if there's something that would take the corrosion off without causing other problems, maybe in an ultrasonic bath?


I am curious if you spent any time on the beach or whether this occurred far from salt water?

Yes pretty obviose from the rusted look.


I have cleaned it up and most has come off relativly easy luckily. Most of it was just surface rust and stain. So it should not be too bad. My bigest concern is the bearings behind the ring gear. I have oiled them up and it seems to be spinning pretty good.


It has done plenty of beach work but never driven through salt water to get salt water into it.

It has done plenty of deep creek and river crossings over the years so I would say it had water sitting in there for a long time and that is what has caused it.

I am considering drilling a hole in the under side somewhere and tapping a bung into it to check it in future.

 

[greentruck]

Tinman,
Good point on needing a drain hole. If what's above it isn't sealed to keep water out, then you really need a drain hole at the bottom of the case to let it out.

The XRC12 12k winch on our truck is a TMax clone, as those markings were on the inside of the castings when I had it open. There is a drain hole, pretty small (~1/16" or 3mm) on these. As long as you have the guts greased well, adding one to your Warn shouldn't be a problem. A water-repellent grease will tend to drive moisture down in the case, since it's lighter than water, and out the hole.

 

[Tinman]

So I have ripped it down and cleaned it up. Firstly I would like to say it was not difficult. I was a bit concerned about ending up with a pile of cogs and not knowing how to put them back together. the planetary gears come out as three assemblies and then the sun gear sits at the back of the casing on a thrust washer.

After cleaning everything up the damage was not too bad. At first sight the teeth on the ring gears looked as though they could have been a problem but they cleaned up pretty well with the only bad rust being on the end of the main ring gear and a little bit where the bearing sit on the clutch ring gear. Considdering the only time the cluth ring gear moves is on free spool I am not to concered about this. It does spin quite freely.
The housing has a little corrosion under wher the ring gears sit but once again nothing I am concerned about.

I drilled 2 holes in the casing and tapped them with a 1/8 BSP thread. One at the lowest point and the other at the hiest piont of the casing. The bottom one I have put a plug and the top one I have put a grease nipple.

I just need to chase up a gasket for it now and some grease to put it back together. By the way you guys got me with the Cat grease. I am thinking what is cat grease do they boil up cats. Then I saw one of the pics. Catepillar





.

 

[greentruck]

Naw, you don't boil cats to make Cat grease. You simply apply it to the tail end of the cat if it's constipated. The cat licks it off and it's all good...;p

Looks like the winch is shaping up well and just about ready for another couple of decades of service.

 

[Tinman]

It is all back together for a total of $6 for a gasket, $15 for grease and about 4 hous of my labour. Used a lithium grease with moly.
So next time i go through some water I have a drain plug I can pull out and pump a bit more grease into it.

 

[Bryan E.]

Do you have any more photos of your rebuild?

I appreciate seeing your photo's of your Warn M10000 winch rebuild. I bought a basket case winch and have been gathering parts to rebuild it. I've never seen it put together so your photo's will help out. Do you have any more to share?

What kind of winch rope or cable are you running, and diameter of the rope and length?

Any tips on this re-build?

Thanks

 

[Tinman]

I appreciate seeing your photo's of your Warn M10000 winch rebuild. I bought a basket case winch and have been gathering parts to rebuild it. I've never seen it put together so your photo's will help out. Do you have any more to share?

What kind of winch rope or cable are you running, and diameter of the rope and length?

Any tips on this re-build?

Thanks

PM me your email and i will see what photos I have.

I think it is 10mm (3/8") x about 40meter (130') steel cable (6x19)

I also downloaded the parts diagram exploded veiw from Warns website.

Was pretty straight forward to do. keep all your parts in the order you take them out.

When you separate the casing carfull not to drop the pin spring and detent ball for the cutch release lever as it will drop straight out.

Remove the detent spring assembly and the lever will slide out.

Pull out the 3rd stage gear assembly

Pull out the 2rd stage gear assembly

Pull out the 1st stage gear assembly

Pull out the small sun gear and dont loose the thrust washer that sits under it in the end of the casing.

You now have to remove the ring gears. The outer one is a press fit. You may need a puller to remove it although mine came out with little persuasion. Take note which way the sit in the casing. The outer gear sits flush to the end of casing with teeth right to the edge.

The inner clutch ring gear has the bearings behind it. A circlip holds it in place. Cannot remember exactly what I did to get it out. Do this over a bowl of some sort so as not to loose the bearings. About 85 or so all loose.

And it think I had to play around a bit to get the bearings back in. Use plenty of grease to hold them in position.