Volvo D5 swap in to 1993 Hilux Surf (6 Viewers)

[Fantastika]

Hello,
I was working on my Hilux and i had a Volvo D5 sitting next to me, and i started thinking if it could be fit in to the hilux? Now for everyone in NA who didnt get this masterful engine, the D5 is a 2.4l 5 cylinder turbo diesel, aluminium head and block, about 120kw/160hp and 350nm. Ive seen plenty of TDI,OM,M57 swaps but the main issue with the 6 cylinder engines imo is the fact that it barely fits in a hilux, you have to take some pretty extreme measures to get it in there, as the D5 is 5 cylinders it should be much easier to fit. My first concern with the D5 would be the computer that runs it as its a commonrail engine, but i found a guy in sweden who flashes his own software which makes the ECU just an ECU. The next issue is the transmission adapter, ill take some measurments off an R150 so i can get them in to Fusion and play around with the mounting, i looked around and i think you could maybe use the stock volvo flywheel and pressure plate and just use a clutch from a 1KZ, the volvo clutch is 240m and 1KZ is 235 so it should work. My next concern is whether the R150 could survive the D5, especially if its tuned as the torque increases quite a bit to 500nm. This is a long term project, first ill get all the measurments, the trans and the engine. And take a crack at fitting it in to the Hilux next year(hopefully).

 

[TheBussman]

not a engine we have here in the US, I don't really know. Your right I've seen some 6cyl swaps that are really crammed in there. The om602/om605/om662 would be a good fit if you can get them, the 2.9L probably being best. Ready made adapters to the r150 are available all ready, can be run mechanical will little electronics.

 

[Fantastika]

not a engine we have here in the US, I don't really know. Your right I've seen some 6cyl swaps that are really crammed in there. The om602/om605/om662 would be a good fit if you can get them, the 2.9L probably being best. Ready made adapters to the r150 are available all ready, can be run mechanical will little electronics.

I do know about the 5 cyl mercedes diesel, the issue with them is theyre getting a bit rare, while the volvo engine is literally everywhere,for me, as volvo used it from 2000 till 2017. Ive been reading about the R150's strenght and the limits people claim are all over the place, some say its good for barely 150hp some say its good for 300, but i gathered side stepping the clutch in 4hi with big torque wouldnt be good

 

[TheBussman]

I do know about the 5 cyl mercedes diesel, the issue with them is theyre getting a bit rare, while the volvo engine is literally everywhere,for me, as volvo used it from 2000 till 2017. Ive been reading about the R150's strenght and the limits people claim are all over the place, some say its good for barely 150hp some say its good for 300, but i gathered side stepping the clutch in 4hi with big torque wouldnt be good

I hear you on the r150. lots of people have them in supras and behind v8 swaps say they are great with the upgraded thrust washer, other people with stock 1hz trucks say they wont hold together. One member on here has one in a om606 swap 80 with big tires. CDI wiring shouldn't be too bad, it's the adapter plate and possible custom made flywheel that would be difficult unless your good at that kind of thing. I've heard of a few that bolted up OK but were very slightly off and it kept damaging transmission bearings... i would probably be more confident in cutting and welding 2 bellhousings togeather myself.

 

[Fantastika]

I hear you on the r150. lots of people have them in supras and behind v8 swaps say they are great with the upgraded thrust washer, other people with stock 1hz trucks say they wont hold together. One member on here has one in a om606 swap 80 with big tires. CDI wiring shouldn't be too bad, it's the adapter plate and possible custom made flywheel that would be difficult unless your good at that kind of thing. I've heard of a few that bolted up OK but were very slightly off and it kept damaging transmission bearings... i would probably be more confident in cutting and welding 2 bellhousings togeather myself.

Ive never done it, but ive got a cnc and a 3d printer to make mockups, so i wanna try. I found a guy on facebook that will let me take measurements off his R150, i did find dimensions on yotatech but i want to confirm them just to make sure. Im not so sure about welding bellhousings, seems like getting them to line up would pretty hard, not to mention that aluminium tig and i dont get along well. If worst comes to worst i can scan both the engine and bellhousing to model a perfect adapter

 

[TheBussman]

Ive never done it, but ive got a cnc and a 3d printer to make mockups, so i wanna try. I found a guy on facebook that will let me take measurements off his R150, i did find dimensions on yotatech but i want to confirm them just to make sure. Im not so sure about welding bellhousings, seems like getting them to line up would pretty hard, not to mention that aluminium tig and i dont get along well. If worst comes to worst i can scan both the engine and bellhousing to model a perfect adapter

That's cool, I don't have much experience with that kind of thing. I've seen bell housings cut and welded before it is quite a process. you have to take out the crankshaft, have to have a machined tube that fits where the crank would go, put the block face down. then machine a bushing that fits into the tube and also matches the major diameter of the transmission splines on the inside. put the transmission on the bushing on the tube, next rough cut both bell housings apart, put them on the mill, make them flat, then you can fit the 2 halfs in place and weld it up.

 

[Fantastika]

That's cool, I don't have much experience with that kind of thing. I've seen bell housings cut and welded before it is quite a process. you have to take out the crankshaft, have to have a machined tube that fits where the crank would go, put the block face down. then machine a bushing that fits into the tube and also matches the major diameter of the transmission splines on the inside. put the transmission on the bushing on the tube, next rough cut both bell housings apart, put them on the mill, make them flat, then you can fit the 2 halfs in place and weld it up.

That honestly sounds like a hellish experience and definitely the most difficult way I've heard of making a adapter, only upside I see is that it's more compact. I think adapting the flywheel is probably the hardest part though, you really can't do it with simple tools

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

You may want to use an R151F transmission, which is used with the 1HZ engine.

A bell housing from a 1PZ or 1HZ engine should serve as a reference. For what is worth, the 1PZ is a five-cylinder engine.

Looking forward to see your conversion progress.







Juan

 

[Fantastika]

Hello,

You may want to use an R151F transmission, which is used with the 1HZ engine.

A bell housing from a 1PZ or 1HZ engine should serve as a reference. For what is worth, the 1PZ is a five-cylinder engine.

Looking forward to see your conversion progress.







Juan

As i understand i could have either the r150 or r151, is there a way to tell which i have? The vin plate is gone for some reason.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

The difference between R150 and R151 is the gear ratio. They look similar from the outside.





Juan

 

[Fantastika]

Ive spent some time trying to figure out what to do with the commonrail pump on the D5, as it sticks out about 15cm past the crank face. Ive had an idea of remote mounting it and maybe driving it from the timing belt or making a custom thing to drive it with gears from the cam shaft. Has anyone seen this be done? Its a commonrail pump it shouldnt matter at how its timed as i understand, because it just has to keep the pressure in the rail.

 

[TheBussman]

Ive spent some time trying to figure out what to do with the commonrail pump on the D5, as it sticks out about 15cm past the crank face. Ive had an idea of remote mounting it and maybe driving it from the timing belt or making a custom thing to drive it with gears from the cam shaft. Has anyone seen this be done? Its a commonrail pump it shouldnt matter at how its timed as i understand, because it just has to keep the pressure in the rail.

sounds tricky, those pumps take a bit of power to turn so what ever you come up with will need to be strong. I know that the VM 3.0l engines actually do need to have the high pressure pump in time, if they're not timed up right they still run fine but make a noise. Better 2x check that it's not an issue on your Volvo. i would see if you can make it fit without moving it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Ive spent some time trying to figure out what to do with the commonrail pump on the D5, as it sticks out about 15cm past the crank face. Ive had an idea of remote mounting it and maybe driving it from the timing belt or making a custom thing to drive it with gears from the cam shaft. Has anyone seen this be done? Its a commonrail pump it shouldnt matter at how its timed as i understand, because it just has to keep the pressure in the rail.

I don't think driving the common rail pump with a belt would be feasible.
Do any OEMs run the pump with a belt?

Commonrail injection system produce huge pressures to the injectors, and would require a lot of torque to drive the pump.
Not sure about the D5, but some common rail injection runs at 40,000+ psi. That's wild!! That's slice through steel wild!

The pump is basically a hydraulic fluid pump.
You'd need a big wide, toothed belt, and a LOT of belt tension, and pulleys precisely aligned.

I don't think driving the pump from the cam would be a good idea either. Camshaft is driven at a 1:2 ratio to crank rotation.
I think, regardless of timing, you'd have to use gearing to bring the pump rotation back up to 1:1 to produce the correct output for flow and pressure.
You'd be putting a lot of load through the cam gears/ belt etc ( no idea how the Volvo cam is driven), that aren't designed for high torque loads.
The diesels I've had apart use sturdy/ heavy metal gears driven off the crank. And that's for engines running 2500psi injection pressure.

 

[Fantastika]

I don't think driving the common rail pump with a belt would be feasible.
Do any OEMs run the pump with a belt?

Commonrail injection system produce huge pressures to the injectors, and would require a lot of torque to drive the pump.
Not sure about the D5, but some common rail injection runs at 40,000+ psi. That's wild!! That's slice through steel wild!

The pump is basically a hydraulic fluid pump.
You'd need a big wide, toothed belt, and a LOT of belt tension, and pulleys precisely aligned.

I don't think driving the pump from the cam would be a good idea either. Camshaft is driven at a 1:2 ratio to crank rotation.
I think, regardless of timing, you'd have to use gearing to bring the pump rotation back up to 1:1 to produce the correct output for flow and pressure.
You'd be putting a lot of load through the cam gears/ belt etc ( no idea how the Volvo cam is driven), that aren't designed for high torque loads.
The diesels I've had apart use sturdy/ heavy metal gears driven off the crank. And that's for engines running 2500psi injection pressure.

After speaking to some diesel guys ive found out some run belt driven dual CP3 pumps in high power applications, now 200hp isnt exactly high power but il just run one pump. Heres some people selling kits for a second pump https://www.msttuning.com.au/product-page/m57-dual-cp3-kit
PPE Dual Fueler CP3 Kit Cummins (04.5-07) With CP3 Pump - https://ecddiesel.com/dodge-5-9l-ppe-dual-fueler-cp3-pump-kit.html I know some diesel toyotas run the cr pump from the timing belt. Volvo actually drives the pump from the cam from factory. I know some engines are gear driven, but isnt that more for reliability?

 

[Fantastika]

sounds tricky, those pumps take a bit of power to turn so what ever you come up with will need to be strong. I know that the VM 3.0l engines actually do need to have the high pressure pump in time, if they're not timed up right they still run fine but make a noise. Better 2x check that it's not an issue on your Volvo. i would see if you can make it fit without moving it.

Id prefer to not have to move it, but then i have to change the rad location and make new drive shafts, probably remove AC, or cut a hole in the firewall, and i dont want to do either

 

[Fantastika]

Took off the CP3 pump and the vacuum pump on my blown engine and the block is about 60cm with the head being 3cm past the bellhousing face.

Im hoping i can use a CP3 pump from a different car as the Volvo version has a very short shaft which would be difficult to adapt to a pulley. Im finding the information online about the CP3 pumps to be basically what @TheBussman said, the engine will run but itll be a bit rough. Im hoping to adapt the 2LT PAS pump as then i can use the original vacuum pump. Its looking like ill have to make a custom accesory drive, which would also solve this engines achilees heel, where the serpentine belt can snap from old age and get in to the timing belt, which causes bad things happen which is how this engine died

 

[Fantastika]

This is the current plan, usually the PAS pump is there but ill run the stock 2LT one on the otherside and use that space for the CR pump, the pump ill use is going to be from some kind of Audi as they seem to be much easier to mount and drive than the volvo one, ill replace the toothed belt with a spline one and hope its enough to drive the pump. I know im running the chance of snapping a belt, and itll probably need to be changed more often aswell

 

[Fantastika]

Was busy with life but i have made some progress, i bought a donor manual Volvo S60 to take anything i need for the swap and sell the rest. I considered buying only the things i need but buying a whole car worked out much cheaper than buying individual parts, and atleast this way i know the engine worked correctly before i do anything. I also made an adapter to use the original MAF with a standard cone filter as i wont be using any of the factory Volvo or Toyota intake piping. Its a weird shape and printed out of PLA, as its just for test fitting for now.