Vibration Help (1 Viewer)

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I don't think my axles have ever been serviced. They're original.
Ok I was thinking they had removed the CV from the hub when doing the front work. I know it’s not required. It would explain a low speed wobble but I’d expect weird brakes from the runout it temp causrs
 
Latest update:

I replaced the LCAs, front bearings/hubs, axles, front sway bar links, all cam alignment hardware, diff support bushings, and all rotors/pads. I still have the vibration.

It really seems to get amplified when I hit bumps so it's making me question my suspension set up. I have OME 2701s up front with 2721/91005s in the rear. I can hardly budge the front suspension when I apply weight to it, whereas the rear I can easily cycle it up and down. I know they're progressive buy they seem pretty weak. I have a front ARB/winch, sliders, and a rear ARB with two swing outs. Is my suspension in the rear too light for this weight causing the vibrations?
 
I'm going to bring this thread back to life. I had the wheels/tires road forced balanced and still have the same issue. In summary, If the 200 hasn't been driven for a day or so it has a low speed "shimmy" or vibration until everything warms up. It feels like a tire with a flat spot in it. After a few miles everything is fine. The problem goes away after something is warming up. If it's not the wheels/tires, could it be a strut or shock? I'm considering ditching the my current OME set up for something more stout, either the Bilstein set up or the BP-51s. I haven't been happy with the ride quality of the standard OME set up anyway.

I have 2701s up front and 2722 in the back right now. I did have 2721s, but thought I'd try the constant spring rate spings that I had lying around to see if it made a difference. I have ARB rear bumper with swing outs, so I know I need to go 2723s or bigger for my next spring. I'm wondering if that's part of the problem?

The Bilstein set up is a 650 lb spring up front, my current OME spring is 725 lbs. Is this going to be a problem? Anyone know what the spring rate of the BP51s is?
 
I don't think spring rate is your problem. My rears are standard rate Tough Dog 240# coils (vs the 270/340# progressive OMEs) and my fronts are the standard coil rate so they are softer than yours and I will add 1000# to the rear when pulling a trailer (and can sit as much as 1000# over GVWR) and all it does it make the ride floatier. No shimmy.

If you had a leaky shock it could be related though I would think that would've been obvious when doing the other suspension work. If your vibration is in the steering wheel it's likely an issue up front, if it's in the seat of your pants it's likely in the rear. Not guaranteed though.

Honestly I'm surprised it goes away when things warm up. That said I would think any suspension looseness would NOT go away as the truck warms up.

How many miles on the truck? If the problem is going away once the drivetrain warms up, I would lean towards some sort of play in the drivetrain which goes away as the gears/bearings/fluid/etc warm up and expand.

I know it's satisfying to diagnose yourself but before you drop $3-4k on a BP51 setup I'd personally find a shop I trust and pay them for the hour or two of diagnostic time to help track this down.
 
I don't think spring rate is your problem. My rears are standard rate Tough Dog 240# coils (vs the 270/340# progressive OMEs) and my fronts are the standard coil rate so they are softer than yours and I will add 1000# to the rear when pulling a trailer (and can sit as much as 1000# over GVWR) and all it does it make the ride floatier. No shimmy.

If you had a leaky shock it could be related though I would think that would've been obvious when doing the other suspension work. If your vibration is in the steering wheel it's likely an issue up front, if it's in the seat of your pants it's likely in the rear. Not guaranteed though.

Honestly I'm surprised it goes away when things warm up. That said I would think any suspension looseness would NOT go away as the truck warms up.

How many miles on the truck? If the problem is going away once the drivetrain warms up, I would lean towards some sort of play in the drivetrain which goes away as the gears/bearings/fluid/etc warm up and expand.

I know it's satisfying to diagnose yourself but before you drop $3-4k on a BP51 setup I'd personally find a shop I trust and pay them for the hour or two of diagnostic time to help track this down.
I discovered something interesting today. As I was leaving the driveway it felt as if the 200 was leaning towards the driver's side. I parked the car and looked and sure enough there was a lean. I pushed down on the drivers side front bumper and was able to easily cycle the suspension. I was hardly able to move the passenger side. After driving for 40 miles I repeated the process and both sides felt firm. What's going on here? Valving issue?
 
I discovered something interesting today. As I was leaving the driveway it felt as if the 200 was leaning towards the driver's side. I parked the car and looked and sure enough there was a lean. I pushed down on the drivers side front bumper and was able to easily cycle the suspension. I was hardly able to move the passenger side. After driving for 40 miles I repeated the process and both sides felt firm. What's going on here? Valving issue?
Not normal at all. Next call should be to ARB.
 
I discovered something interesting today. As I was leaving the driveway it felt as if the 200 was leaning towards the driver's side. I parked the car and looked and sure enough there was a lean. I pushed down on the drivers side front bumper and was able to easily cycle the suspension. I was hardly able to move the passenger side. After driving for 40 miles I repeated the process and both sides felt firm. What's going on here? Valving issue?
How old are the shocks? That doesn’t sound normal. The OME shocks are nitrogen-filled. Is one of them not properly pressurized? Tbh I’d expect it to always be bouncy if a shock is bad but maybe the one shock is just a bit low on charge and as it warms up the gas expands and stabilizes it?
 
How old are the shocks? That doesn’t sound normal. The OME shocks are nitrogen-filled. Is one of them not properly pressurized? Tbh I’d expect it to always be bouncy if a shock is bad but maybe the one shock is just a bit low on charge and as it warms up the gas expands and stabilizes it?
The shocks are only a few years old. The hub to fender height appears to be changing after everything warms up. I'm wondering if it could also have something to do with the KDSS? I may try to drive with the shutter valves open after the 200 sits overnight to see if the vibration goes away.

The big question is what low speed prominent vibration goes away completely after 3-5 miles of driving? Lol.
 
The shocks are only a few years old. The hub to fender height appears to be changing after everything warms up. I'm wondering if it could also have something to do with the KDSS? I may try to drive with the shutter valves open after the 200 sits overnight to see if the vibration goes away.

The big question is what low speed prominent vibration goes away completely after 3-5 miles of driving? Lol.
Tires.
 
That's what I thought. Balanced 3 times, including road force. Never had an issue with Nitto RGs before. I may have to put this thing on jack stands and watch the run out.
 
That's what I thought. Balanced 3 times, including road force. Never had an issue with Nitto RGs before. I may have to put this thing on jack stands and watch the run out.
I’m not a betting person, but if I were, I’d bet one or more of the tires is causing this. Maybe Nitto changed compounds and they flat spot. If you watch run out, do it cold. Tires can be balanced but still be out of round, have a bad belt, or a tread lug defect. Maybe if once it’s on jack stands, if you have a helper spinning the opposite wheel you can check run out with a piece of chalk moved in gradually.
 
I’m not a betting person, but if I were, I’d bet one or more of the tires is causing this. Maybe Nitto changed compounds and they flat spot. If you watch run out, do it cold. Tires can be balanced but still be out of round, have a bad belt, or a tread lug defect. Maybe if once it’s on jack stands, if you have a helper spinning the opposite wheel you can check run out with a piece of chalk moved in gradually.
I think I need to do this. Getting the tires balanced is always after they've been driven and warmed up, potentially masking the problem.
 
Tires frequently flat spot.

But the 2008s had a vibration issue that would become evident while driving up a grade. I walked on one that vibrated badly. I bought one that seemed fine but then while driving home and going up overpasses I noticed the sligtht shimmy. Never did resolve the issue and my research indicated it was due to the transfer case. I believe 2009 and up model years had some changes made.
 
Tires frequently flat spot.

But the 2008s had a vibration issue that would become evident while driving up a grade. I walked on one that vibrated badly. I bought one that seemed fine but then while driving home and going up overpasses I noticed the sligtht shimmy. Never did resolve the issue and my research indicated it was due to the transfer case. I believe 2009 and up model years had some changes made.
This one is completely smooth after a few miles and at high speeds.
 
Tire flat spot doesn't answer the concern you brought with how soft driver front suspension is when cold... Might be worth looking into that. Also I don't see how KDSS could be related, but it's a lot cheaper to open the valve and see if it still stays soft or stiffens up after driving around instead of assuming its something in your shock.
 

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