Vehicle Starting Failure Diagnosis - Expert Help Needed (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kah1593
- Start date
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Did you clean the maf sensor?
Disconnect and scrub both ends of the ground wire from vehicle battery to the body even if they don't look corroded? When the truck doesn't start, do you still see power to the "start button", ie does the green light go on when you hit the brake pedal? Could the green switch that connects to the brake pedal be malfunctioning? Each time you push and release that little white button the start button light should go red/green.
I'm neither a Toyota tech nor have I experienced the problem so I probably can't help. But, the problem sounds an awful lot like a bad ground somewhere in the starting circuit. 95% of the time it will pass enough current, but not always. Have your mechanic take the @Mogwai advice and clean things up. On the up side, when you get this solved, you'll have a new starter and battery!
Yeah I just dealt with this, who knows maybe I still am but so far so good. Initially cleaned up everything except for the ground wire. Then cleaned that and the body where it touches (and visually it all looked fine) and so far so good after about a week. Nothing was loose either.
I experienced a similar issue in my 100. Spent months and lots of $$$ trying to diagnose the problem. Relays, batteries, battery terminals, starter contacts, the starter, fuel pump... nothing ever solved the problem. In the end, it was fuse. A freaking fuse. A bad fuse can "intermittently" work, thereby masking it as the culprit. Try switching out the ignition fuse and see what happens. HTH
Did you ever get a full rundown what happened with Chad's issue and the eventual wiring harness replacement? I have no idea if what he was experiencing is similar to OP's issue.
I didn't, curious to that as well. I will ping him.
lrowe_csp
Too many cruisers, not enough time
EFI fuse? Even if it looks good, swap another in new one just to check...
I had a non-start (it would catch then die, usually). Proved to be out of gas. In my driveway. But along the way I read a lot on what will keep a car that turns over from staying started. One path is the already mentioned EFI fuses and relays. The other is the MAF sensor or circuit. It is very easy to check - the MAF sensor is on the airbox to engine tube, and takes about 5 min to remove. MAF cleaner is $10.
You can just unplug it for initial test, if it starts unplugged, it'll throw a code and go into a basic fuel air map. Then you know you have to cllean/replace the sensor and away you go.
To determine if you have fuel issues starter fluid is a cheap and easy test - it costs $4 for a can.
If you truly have no codes (like I had), then you're probably in on the already mentioned grounding or fuse type issue, with 2nd being a fuel issue. I think most air issues will throw a code.
You can just unplug it for initial test, if it starts unplugged, it'll throw a code and go into a basic fuel air map. Then you know you have to cllean/replace the sensor and away you go.
To determine if you have fuel issues starter fluid is a cheap and easy test - it costs $4 for a can.
If you truly have no codes (like I had), then you're probably in on the already mentioned grounding or fuse type issue, with 2nd being a fuel issue. I think most air issues will throw a code.
RET2
SILVER Star
I would be very very careful with the starter fluid.
RET2
SILVER Star
It should crank regardless of MAS and EFI shouldn't it?
RET2
SILVER Star
Does everything else light up/ function? Just no cranking? Does green light on starter light up?
