ok guys this might sound like a dumb ?. but i am in the process of rebuilding my motor 2F motor with a rv grind cam. in fact i got the complete engine kit from man-a-not so... my question is i'm trying to set up the valve clearance before i start the motor up following the procedure but when i get to #4intake valve i can take the adjuster all the way out and the push rod is still touching the rocker this also goes for #5 ex valve. i work on cars for a living and this is stumping me. its not like adjusting the valve's on my old 535, which is soo simple. also when i roll the eng over the valve clearance on the valves i just adjusted gets way out spec. AHAHAh its driving me nuts.
Valve Adustment question
- Thread starter cruzrob
- Start date
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You need to do half with cyl #1 at TDC and the other half with cyl #6 at TDC. I think you are doing the wrong half at the wrong time.
Butt Ugly Chuck
Fish Biologist
Here's just one of the many 2mbb posts I've found extremely useful.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/71631-valve-adjustment-done-right.html#post831847
Butt
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/71631-valve-adjustment-done-right.html#post831847
Butt
TDC is top dead center on the compression stroke. #1 and #6 are at the top at the same time, but one is on the compression stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/276106-right-way-do-wrong.html#post4300965
- Thread starter
- #6
so i rotated the crank 360 deg, that means that i had the dist 180 out. but when i look at the timing marks on the crank/cam gears the timing marks don't line up. the crank is at tdc but the cam is 180 out. all the valve's that i need to adjust are loose. for the first set of valves. is wat i'm say making any sense and i have read the other threads about adjusting the valves. just out of curiosity which valves will be compressed/open on the first stage?
As long as the timing marks align with every other rotation, you are fine. I got to the point, especially with a cam that is not stock, of only adjusting a valve when the companion valve on the same cylinder was visibly open. I would make a list and cross them off as I did them.
You're making it too hard. Count 1,2,3,5,7,9, from the radiator back when adjusting with #1 at TDC. Count1,2,3,5,7,9 from the firewall forward when adjusting with #6 at TDC
This assumes that the new cam's profile will allow that. The increased lift and duration and/or altered valve timing may make it incompatible with this method even if it's just by a small amount.
