valve adjustment
- Thread starter mp_cude
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Check the FAQ's if you haven't already. Pretty simple job.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/12953-adjusting-valves.html
Also post up in the CSC forum and some guys/gals in your area might be able to assist you in setting your lash correctly.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/12953-adjusting-valves.html
Also post up in the CSC forum and some guys/gals in your area might be able to assist you in setting your lash correctly.
The FSM I have does say to adjust them running. You'll read in that thread that CKaya84 linked to that there's some disagreement about engine running vs. hot and not running. If you don't have a FSM and/or don't want to try it running your first time out, get a Haynes manual and follow the procedure in there.
I've done my 60 and my 4Runner with the engine hot but not running, and it seems to have worked out fine. Just figure out a good way to find TDC before the engine cools. Putting it in 4th gear and pushing on the bumper does well, if you can see the timing marks.
I've done my 60 and my 4Runner with the engine hot but not running, and it seems to have worked out fine. Just figure out a good way to find TDC before the engine cools. Putting it in 4th gear and pushing on the bumper does well, if you can see the timing marks.
I did it running for years. It's messy and it beats the hell out of your feeler gauges. My last method was to draw it out on paper and adjust valves that were obviously closed as the counterpart (exhaust or intake of the same cylinder) was open. Then I would cross them off the sheet of paper one by one. I used a jack under one rear wheel, I put the trans in the highest gear and turned the engine over with the rear wheel untill I had been able to get all the valves. It actually seemed to be the easiest and cleanest way to do it. I also ran my valves at .007 and .005 instead of what Toyota specifies; it ran quieter and slightly stronger.
I used a jack under one rear wheel, I put the trans in the highest gear and turned the engine over with the rear wheel untill I had been able to get all the valves.QUOTE]
I did what lehiguy described today (less the change in gap and Weber carb)- it worked well, but took a while to get it set up with the TDC mark- In 4th gear, I didn't know how much to spin the rear tire., so I did it in small increments.
Last year, I adjusted them running like the FSM said. It was a bit messy and beat the hell out of my feeler gauges as described, but seemed to work fine also.
Drawing them on a sheet and then crossing them off is the way to go.
Use the link to JimC's description. It was spot-on.
I use what I guess is the haynes manual procedure. I get the engine to operating temperature, then remove the spark plugs and valve cover. I rotate the engine until it is TDC for the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Then, counting out each valve from the front of the engine, I adjust valves 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9. I rotate the engine 360 degrees to TDC for the #1 cylinder exhaust stroke, then I adjust valves 4, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12. To turn the engine to each of the TDC's I use a wrence on the alternator pulley bolt, turning clockwise. If the alternator belt slips, I tighten it up a little, and loosen it back when I'm done. The post linked below has a little chart I use for keeping straight which valves are intake and which are exhaust.
IH8MUD™ Forums - View Single Post - Valve adjustment done right?
IH8MUD™ Forums - View Single Post - Valve adjustment done right?
The rest of the story....
I seemed to have missed that part of the story!
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- #9
ah...it must be a nightmare to adjust it while running...is there any way to fid the difference in gap from cool to hot. If somebody was to adjust it while running, let it cool and once cool check the gap. Then that gap could be used so you dont have to run it. Makes sanse to me but i could be wrong
I think you want to set the gap while the engine is hot, because when the engine is running, most of the time the engine is hot. Therefore the gap will be set to be most accurate most of the time. I suppose each individual valve train may differ slightly how much they expand when the engine gets hot and therefore setting it cold may be less accurate.
What's the problem with getting the engine hot then adjusting the valves with the engine off? Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty quickly and the engine doesn't cool down much. I purchased a set of step feeler gauges (also called go-no go). The tip of the gauge is the thickness needed for the adjustment. Further back, the gauge steps up to a couple thousands thicker. If the tip can fit between the rocker and the valve stem, but the step can't then the valve is adjusted properly. If the tip doesn't fit, the adjustment is too tight. If the step fits, the adjustment is too loose.
What's the problem with getting the engine hot then adjusting the valves with the engine off? Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty quickly and the engine doesn't cool down much. I purchased a set of step feeler gauges (also called go-no go). The tip of the gauge is the thickness needed for the adjustment. Further back, the gauge steps up to a couple thousands thicker. If the tip can fit between the rocker and the valve stem, but the step can't then the valve is adjusted properly. If the tip doesn't fit, the adjustment is too tight. If the step fits, the adjustment is too loose.
While I was working on mine, the engine was obviously cooling, but it was still too hot to hold the rockers. I'm sure the differende between hot and warm is negligible.
The next time I do it, I'm going to get the stepped feeler gauges as 2mbb suggested.
The next time I do it, I'm going to get the stepped feeler gauges as 2mbb suggested.
I did this method also and it works fine with a stock cam, it did not work with the perofrmance cam that I later tried; too much duration to work this way. And the time spent finding the stupid timing mark on the flywheel was at least as much as the time spent turning the engine via the rear wheel and doing the valves one at a time.
