Using Urethane to Glue In a Windshield

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BlueCruiser84

BlueCruiser84

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Is this possible? or advisable?

80 was rolled and I'm wondering if I'm going to be able to get the windshield frame straight enough to put it in with a gasket. Is it possible to glue the thing in using only Urethane sealant? I know this is the way many vehicles are done from the factory but....
 
It's the way my 84 pickup windshield is held in. But you will have to track down leaks as it has been rolled. So had mine and it took a little bit to seal with all the leaks. But now I don't have a problem with it.
 
Is the 84 originally a gasket? I can't remember.

I think the windshield will be pretty low on the list of potential leak areas...


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It isn't a gasket originally but the people I had do it prefer urethane over gaskets.
 
I'd cheap out and go with a tube of silicone caulk from the local hardware store. Cheap enough at least..
 
cwwfj60 said:
i'd say go for it, it should work, I don't think you will have as big of a surface area to put the urethane but it should hold in and be relatively leak free for your needs. That s*** is messy though, make sure your careful what it gets on.
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I'm going for it. I'll post a pic of the mess when I'm done. I used some salvaged sections of the other window frames to extend the edges of the windshield frame. Basically made tabs inside it to keep the windshield from popping into the cabin and give myself some extra area to glue to.

Mace said:
I'd cheap out and go with a tube of silicone caulk from the local hardware store. Cheap enough at least..
Click to expand...

I'm going ghetto enough as it is! The least I could do is splurge for the 3M windo-weld!! I'll probably end up going over the top of it with something from the hardware store to protect from UV.
 
Front windows are the only one you can belt sand to fit. Since they are not tempered. FYI I had to belt sand mine 1/4" to get it to fit after i replaced my roof. same situation but with a 60 series.
 
cruisedeisel said:
Front windows are the only one you can belt sand to fit. Since they are not tempered. FYI I had to belt sand mine 1/4" to get it to fit after i replaced my roof. same situation but with a 60 series.
Click to expand...

Huh, I didnt' know that! I actually got the frame "straight" enoough that the window fits. The frame is a little crooked, though, so I've got about a half inch gap in one corner. I'll just glob on the urethane!
 
don't use silicone - it won't hold

urethane should hold it just fine, the only thing to really be careful of (since the frame has been bent) is that metal doesn't contact the edge of the windshield and that there is sufficient urethane to cushion the windshield (at least 1/2" thick) from the frame.

leaks, while I get there are other water-inlet places, I'd argue that small drips are more annoying then anything else - especially if it's right above your lap...
 
I had some drips after I did mine, I just started driving in reverse. No more drips.

J/K I cocked the top and sides of the window frame by lifting the rubber gasket up and putting an 1/8" bead of all weather clear cocking. Works mint!.
 
cruisedeisel said:
I had some drips after I did mine, I just started driving in reverse. No more drips.

J/K I cocked the top and sides of the window frame by lifting the rubber gasket up and putting an 1/8" bead of all weather clear cocking. Works mint!.
Click to expand...
I like it! solves many problems, though it may raise couple niggling issues with explanations to the police - I guess just be sure to say this a lot "I'm not drunk" and "please don't tase me bro" ;)

seriously, though. when we remove rubber, weather molding and replace it with a urethane bed we use rubber T-trim to fill the gap between the glass and the metal. if you laid out your opening correctly, you can simply embed the T-molding into the urethane. If you're me, you put the windshield in, let it dry, run another bead of urethane in the gap then embed the T-molding. Right now, the 'hot' thing is to install front and rear windows flush - it's an utter pain to do, but it looks really, really good when its done right. Of course, the highest builds, now, are running the metal to 1/16" of the glass... which is really hard to do, and (from my perspective) spending $5,000 on labor (250 hours) to do the metal work for just that option seems pointless.... but hey, you could practice on your bent frame for when you build a Ridler-contesting show car.
 
I'm not quite to that level yet. They must be using something other than a cutoff wheel, porta-power, and a hammer to get those kind of lines.

Does the T-trim protect from UV? I might could go that route. Or maybe just some black UV resistant silicone over the top when I'm done. Or some of that aluminum tape for the chrome look???
 
So this is pretty anti-climactic but I like closure.

Glued the windshield in. It was way easier than I thought. I don't know how well it worked, but it hasn't fallen out while sitting in the garage...:D

Used 3M windo-weld. it went on well and filled some >.5" gaps. If it doesn't fall out or leak terribly I'll be happy. I think I'll finish off the gaps with black UV resistant Silicone and call it done.
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Im sure you didn't have this hard of a time straightening your roof.

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Sorry about the but crack

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I had to chain the truck to a tree. Preload the suspension with blocks between frame and axles. Weld up a door hinge bracket to winch from and the list goes on.

I've been driving it for 5 years now with only one vehicle inspection. Not bad eh!
 
And the final product;)

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Badass!!

But actually it was similar. I borrowed a portapower, though, which reeeeaaallly helped! We tried to pull it with a tractor but the whole truck was sliding around. I was surprised how strong the crunched metal was.

The day I brought it home. You can look at some progress pics through the link in my sig.

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