Used T-Case or rebuild

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Clack

Clack

10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Threads
49
Messages
253
Location
NorCal
Ouch. Got back from Tahoe last night and heard a griding noise from the transmission area after getting off the freeway. AAMCO did the free check out and said it's the transfer case.

I've spent a lot of money on this truck over the last 6 months, (rebuilt front end, runner brakes, new exhaust, new fender, bumper, alternator, speakers) etc. but they were all upkeep, not break downs with exception of the alternator. This one may bleed me dry though. Truck just turned 150 and within a month the alternator and now my transfer case are toast.

Is it just downhill from here or a freak coinsidence?

What do the cruiserheads say:

a) sell the @&@&@&@&er! Who wants to get 13 mpg and shifting their auto between 2nd and 3rd going 45 on mountain passes!$!$!$! Gimme a god damn 99 4runner (what I feel like right now.)

b) just funny timing. Drop it and see how much the repair is. If over 1500, throw in a used one.

c) don't be such a pussy. pump every dollar you have on the thing. time to regear, SBC drop, full emu, and cable lock.
 
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How about rebuild it your self? Maybe you have a helpful cruiserhead in your area to help? it is not a big deal, and it will cost you 130 for the rebuild kit, that's it. Otherwise I would go used.
j
 
I vote #2 but I would go with a used one period. I am just cheap, make sure its in good condition if possible. For $1500 you can upgrade to som eseriously crazy stuff!

Whatever you do dont SBC! urghhh stick with the yota !
 
The foreigner would cost you more than $1,500 & the Cruiser in trade for a mileage gain of maybe 3-4. Comfier, but boring.

Get an automotive stethoscope, block the front wheels, & put the back on jack stands. Have someone go through the gears while you listen to everything underneath. Not that I don't trust AAMCO, but I don't.
 
I think blindly installing a used t-case would be stupi... well, not the best idea. You could end up with more problems than you have now. A transfer rebuild kit from Mudrak is $200 or so, and you can do all the work fairly simply yourself. This is a tedious and time consuming project, but not a hard one. As a first step, check the drain plug for hard metal flakes. If none, then gears should be fine, and it's a matter of replacing all the seals and the bearings. There are only 4 bearings-the idler shaft ones are easy-they slide right on, the output shaft ones are harder, but any machine shop could press the new bearings in 5 minutes. Remember that putting a used tcase on your tranny is 90% of the work as a complete rebuild, and a much less satisfactory repair.

There have been a bunch of threads about t-case rebuilding in the last 6 months. If you search in June and July and my name, you should pull up a bunch of threads and pictures.

On another note, it sounds like you are tired of the constant issues that all 20 year old vehicles have. It might seriously be time to move on, or keep the 60 to fix at your leisure and buy an inexpensive commuter.

Good luck, and let us know what the real problem is.
 
I did not knwo of the costs of a rebuild kit. That sounds like a viable option.
 
Yea, what Drew said. Anyhow, the tcase would need to be fully disassembled to install another used one anyhow. As its coming apart, it should be clear what the problem is. If its a bearing, then a rebuild kit should take care of it. If its a trashed gear, then finding a used tcase for donor parts might be the best route. A common issue with the split case is the idler shaft retaining bolt becoming loose and failing to keep the idler shaft in place. When the shaft backs out, the gears come out of allignment and get munched. If the idler shaft is sticking out the back of the case, start looking for another case.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
I think blindly installing a used t-case would be stupi... well, not the best idea. You could end up with more problems than you have now. A transfer rebuild kit from Mudrak is $200 or so, and you can do all the work fairly simply yourself. This is a tedious and time consuming project, but not a hard one. As a first step, check the drain plug for hard metal flakes. If none, then gears should be fine, and it's a matter of replacing all the seals and the bearings. There are only 4 bearings-the idler shaft ones are easy-they slide right on, the output shaft ones are harder, but any machine shop could press the new bearings in 5 minutes. Remember that putting a used tcase on your tranny is 90% of the work as a complete rebuild, and a much less satisfactory repair.

There have been a bunch of threads about t-case rebuilding in the last 6 months. If you search in June and July and my name, you should pull up a bunch of threads and pictures.

On another note, it sounds like you are tired of the constant issues that all 20 year old vehicles have. It might seriously be time to move on, or keep the 60 to fix at your leisure and buy an inexpensive commuter.

Good luck, and let us know what the real problem is.
Click to expand...


This is exactly what I would say too. Great way to put it Drew!
 
Seems like a shame to spend all that money on your rig and give up now,but I understand your frustration.Depending on what you decide to do I may be able to help ya out with parts to get her going .Where do you call home?PM me if you like
 
Thanks for all the responses. Unfortunately I can't do it myself because this is my daily driver I need it back up and running for work now, plus I don't have the space.

Assuming it is the transfer case and the gears are fine, how may hours should a rebuild take / hours labor should I expect to pay?
 
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I dont know how this will work ou tbut why dotn you buy a used TC and a rebuild kit and do it yourself?? Then sell your TC case in your truck now to make up for the costs.

Just an idea. I have no clue on the labor but it wont be cheap! keep us posted on what you do.
 
It took me about 4hours of solid work to rebuild my tcase once it was sitting on the floor. That includes f-ups!

You can call a Toyota dealership and ask what it runs for the complete R&R plus rebuild. Mine is a 60 but I don't think It'll be too much different for a 62.
Toad
 
My guess is that any shop will charge a lot. You might try a cruiser specific shop-they will know that it isn't that hard. My guess, though, is in the neighborhood of $1000. You really could do this yourself.
 
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Well, the t-case is off and they say it's screwed. I'm going down to check it out myself. (looking for some pin that dropped out?, metal shavings etc.)

I'm buying a replacement from Gary at Mudrak next week and plug that in.

They said my rear main seal is also blown and asked if I want to pull the tranny and replace it since the tranny was already half way out.

I told him to replace the oil pan gasket first and make sure it wasn't just that. (thanks to these forums)

So the question is: How much longer should that take? They told me 4 hours. Seems it wouldn't take much more than an hour but what do I know.

Thanks for helping with my novistry.

BC
 
They'll most likely pull the tranny, replace the seal (if thats what is wrong) mate the tranny and Tcase and put them in together. 4 hours isn't too bad, but they might stard talking about replacing the torque converter as well. Pure labot isn't too far off, but souble check with Gary.
Toad
 
Please send pictures of the damage-close ups of the gears if you please! I'm bummed for you, but Mudrak will send you good stuff. Even so, I would replace the t-case input seal at a minimum, and have the shop throw in a rebuild kit to get you all new bearings.

Regarding the main seal, now is the time. They do leak, the leaks get worse, and they are already under there and able to do it. Replacing the seal is a 2 minute job, the work is pulling out the tranny. I like the idea of replacing the pan gasket as well.

I strongly advise you to at least start working on the rig yourself. These trucks, while reliable, are 20 years old, and issues will constantly come up. If you have to go to the shop each time something leaks, or breaks, then ownership will drive you nuts. It took me about 2 years to get my 60 into "like new" reliable shape. As each system would develop a problem, I'd replace everything associated with the system.

Are you in Northern California?
 
Yeah, Walnut Creek. I do plan to work on it myself from here forward, just need to find a friends driveway who's willing to let me park it, find time to fix it, and find another car to drive for the downtime.

Here's some pictures. There's wear but I don't know how abnormal this is and it doesn't (to me) explain the grinding sound I would hear only some times at low speeds. I look forward to talking more with Gary on Monday.

Also it looks like the leadk could well be just the oil pan gasket. Guy wanted to use some toyota silicone sealant instead of the OEM gasket. Any thoughts? Also, if the rear main is ok is it worth getting in there, cleaning around, and replacing it anyway since I'm already in there?
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The gears do not look that bad. Curious why it could not be rebuilt?

That leak could be either rear main or pan gasket. If you know for sure it's the pan gasket-that's an easy/cheap fix. You need the OEM cork gasket, plus I like to coat mine with a thin film of gray Permatex. Then retorque the bolts once a week for the next month. (Knocking on wood) My 60 has no oil leaks at the moment, but I've replaced the oil pan gasket and the rear main recently.
 
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