Upgraded speaker wire routing

[C6H12O6]

I'm installing a 4-channel amp in the rear PS compartment and I'm not sure where to run the speaker wires. Here's what I have figured out so far:

• RCA cables and remote turn on wire will be run down the PS rocker and up into the rear compartment

• 4 ga. power wire from the battery through the DS firewall. I plan to run the wire down the DS rocker until just in front of the middle seats, then over to the PS and into the rear PS compartment. I was going to go all the way to the back and then over, but this will save several feet of expensive wire.

• I'll run a distribution block in the rear compartment to split the 4 ga. into two 8 ga. power wires to run both the 4-ch amp and a sub amp later on.

I'm having trouble deciding how/where to run the speaker wires to the door speakers. I looked at going up into the headliner and down each side from the center of the roof to keep the L/R sides the same length wire, but headliner removal seems like a real can of worms. I'm not excited about breaking a $1K headliner to save $20 in speaker wire. I want to keep the speaker wire away from the power wire, so I'd rather not run it down the rockers. Any suggestions?

 

[Cobra Jet]

All of your power leads or wires should run down one side of the vehicle completely separate (or opposite) from ANY of the RCA or speaker wires. The power leads should also have a decent amount of space or distance between the speker/RCA cables IF it's not possible to keep them on opposite rockers. This will avoid any potential "noise" in the system. I would run the turn on lead on the same side as the power leads. Keep all of your RCA or speaker wires to the opposite side.

Also, make sure you are using quality power, RCA and speaker leads. Monster Cable has great wiring kits and also "StreetWires" has great install kits.

Check the other thread on here I just responded to about how to install a cheap, but very effective amp fan (or fans) if installing any amp behind interior panels. It's well worth it and too easy to install not to pass up the free info...

As for running the speaker leads for the doors, can't you just run them in the same manner as the factory leads were channeled?

 

[C6H12O6]

Yeah, I was aware of the noise issues running the RCAs and power wires together. I guess I didn't think of the remote turn on carried enough power to be much of a problem, but good advice.

I thought about adding a fan right behind the stock sub grill. Good idea tying it into the the remote turn-on. I wasn't aware the remote turn on lead was hot whenever the HU was on. I thought it just sent a turn-on signal, then off. Good to know.

I get what you mean about running the new wires through the door grommets, but what I mean't was, where should I route the wires from the rear mounted amp to the door pillars? I think I'll probably end up pulling the middle seats and carpet and running all the wires down the center of the truck, then out to the door pillars. This should keep the L/R wires the same length. I can time correct the signals through my HU, but I'm a little anal.

I'm running all Monster Cable ~ 401 RCAs and 4 ga. power/ground wires. I was planning on the MC shielded 16 ga. speaker wire. Should sound great when I'm done. Kinda anxious to get the most out of my nice speakers and HU. They sound pretty anemic off HU power and stock wiring.

 

[PKP80]

run a higher gauge speaker wire and run it through a plastic waterproof sleeve, that will provide enough protection so you get clear un interrupted sound. I have 12 gauge to the front and 14gauge to the rear with about 600 watts totally run through and have no problem.

 

[C6H12O6]

I'm only running a 300 watt 4-channel amp ~ Alpine V12, so no major power issues here. I'm planning on using the Monster Cable speaker wires that have individual speaker wires inside an additional layer of insulation and a black cover over everything. I'm not worried about the wire. I'm really more interested in where to run the wires.

Thanks, though, for the input. I was planning on 16 ga., but maybe 14 would be better.

Thanks again,
Steve

 

[RavenTai]

The speaker leads are not that susceptible to noise, crosstalk current is usually quite small and cannot drive a speaker, it usually only effects the pre amp stuff where it is a larger portion compared to the signal and the noise gets amplified with the signal. If you are really worried about it shielding is cool, you could also twist the wires into a twisted pair so that they neither generate nor receive EMI, but neither is really necessary. Just protect the RCA’s.

The remote should be safe around the RCA’s as it is a static current, EMI comes from increases or decreases in current.

This should keep the L/R wires the same length. I can time correct the signals through my HU, but I'm a little anal.

Wire length and time? the effect of electrical flow is 186,000 miles per second, and for our purposes instantaneous at these distances. The time it takes the sound to get from the speaker to your ear is a much larger number but still very small, that is probably where the time correction comes in not for wire length but for the distance from the speaker to the ear.

If you are using well oversized speaker wire the difference in wire length is not much of a concern from a resistance/impedance standpoint either. In speaker wire bigger is better but you run into diminishing returns.

Just route the speaker wires where they are convenient and protected.

 

[C6H12O6]

RT,
So you're saying I am over-obsessing about something that will only make a nearly indistinguishable difference to the most compulsive and ridiculously paranoid? Man, I finally feel like I belong here.

Thanks for the grounding remarks (pun definitely intended). I'll put the wires where they work and not worry about it.

Still, if wire length makes such little difference, why do serious audiophile nerds worry about matched lengths? All the $$$$ audiophile cables, at least in the home audio stuff, come in matched, time corrected lengths. Granted, my system will fall short of the audiophile techno-nerd level, but what's all the hullabaloo?

I wonder if the difference isn't so much for sound as for the consistent draw of power from the amp. Even though the signals are usually quite different for the L and R, but wouldn't the amp work a little harder to push the signal through a longer wire? Still, maybe only significant at extremes of power and length. I'm rambling again, aren't I?

 

[chip7238]

Don't worry about getting all speaker wires the same length. The difference in resistance between the long and short wires is VERY small. If you use 16ga. wire you will be fine. 14ga. is good as well, but with your amp and the distances involved it's not necessary.

Chip

Edit: In general, home audio is very different from mobile audio. Home audiophiles usually have a stable source of power by using expensive conditioners, and are running far more power than your car will ever be capable of. Current draw on these amps is significantly higher than most mobile amps. Long story short...if looking for audiophile sound in your cruiser, start with very high quality components, then go to higher quality wire, and then think about making your wire lengths equal. Wire length will not make a difference until then, and only if your ear is highly tuned.

 

[C6H12O6]

Yeah, I'm not really expecting to make the cover of Audiophile magazine. I'd just like to get the most out of my mid-level gear (Alpine HU & V12 amp, Infinity speakers, etc.). Glad to hear I was obsessing over nothing. Time to get this install underway.

Thanks,
steve

 

[chip7238]

No problem - with those components, you should have a great sounding system! And don't forget to post some pics when you're done!

Thanks!
Chip

 

[RavenTai]

RT,
So you're saying I am over-obsessing about something that will only make a nearly indistinguishable difference to the most compulsive and ridiculously paranoid? Man, I finally feel like I belong here.

Thanks for the grounding remarks (pun definitely intended). I'll put the wires where they work and not worry about it.

LOL,

Still, if wire length makes such little difference, why do serious audiophile nerds worry about matched lengths? All the $$$$ audiophile cables, at least in the home audio stuff, come in matched, time corrected lengths. Granted, my system will fall short of the audiophile techno-nerd level, but what's all the hullabaloo?

Hmm I don’t know why they are calling them "time matched", marketing?

I credit the success of the speaker wire industry to their expert sales and marketing ability. However, it is my experience that ordinary copper wire, as long as it's heavy enough, is just as good as name brands.

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

A little math, lets say your longest speaker lead is 10' and the shortest 5' for a difference of 10' (round trip two wires) at 186,000 miles per second (669,600,000 miles per hour)


So

10 / 5,280 = 0.001893939

10' is 0.002 of a mile

0.001893939 / 186,000 = 0.000 000 01 seconds (0.000 000 010 182 469 860)

The difference in response between the shortest and longest wire pair is one hundred millionth of a second.

(Somebody check my math)


The human mind is good but not that good

I wonder if the difference isn't so much for sound as for the consistent draw of power from the amp. Even though the signals are usually quite different for the L and R, but wouldn't the amp work a little harder to push the signal through a longer wire? Still, maybe only significant at extremes of power and length. I'm rambling again, aren't I?

That might be more accurate but sufficiently oversized wire that you would pick will not make any noticeable difference in only a few feet.

Read the article linked above