UPDATE: FIXED! Stock multi function display slow to boot

[ParaJake]

I recently un-installed a non-working, previous owner-installed dash cam from my 2009 200 and now I'm having a problem with the multi function display not starting up until I'm well into my drive. About 10-15 minutes into my ride. This is a new problem that started after removing the dash cam. It seems to only happen when it's cold outside. Currently it's getting down to about 50F at night around me and 70F during the day. When I start the car during the day when it's warm outside, the MFD seems to start normally.
The dash cam was powered by a fuse piggyback from the driver footwell fuse box under the gas cap release. I replaced all the fuses and checked them to make sure they are all good.
I notice when the MFD is out, the clock, thermometer, and airbag lights above it are also out and none of the buttons or climate control work and the radio is out as well. The power button does nothing, even when held down. However, the backup camera still works. This is extrmely confusing and frustrating. I haven't been able to find anything like this using the search. At least not for any around this model year. I've seen others having problems with later 200 series'. But since I've never even sat in one, I don't even know how they compare.
I really would like to avoid going aftermarket with a display and all that.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions!

 

[cboyd]

Mine does this when I have a USB stick in with a large file group.

 

[ParaJake]

I don't have any USB ports in my vehicle.

 

[Sandroad]

It sounds like a power supply problem. Something is not making contact until it warms up. Since removing the dash cam and its fuse caused the problem, I suggest going back into the fuse panel and making certain the relevant fuse and its socket are clean and tight as a first step, It wouldn't hurt to use another new fuse in there too. After that look at the next connector in the wiring from that fuse to the MFD. It may be loose or have a loose wire. And, I should ask, any water inside anywhere?

 

[ParaJake]

It sounds like a power supply problem. Something is not making contact until it warms up. Since removing the dash cam and its fuse caused the problem, I suggest going back into the fuse panel and making certain the relevant fuse and its socket are clean and tight as a first step, It wouldn't hurt to use another new fuse in there too. After that look at the next connector in the wiring from that fuse to the MFD. It may be loose or have a loose wire. And, I should ask, any water inside anywhere?

While I did check that the fuses were good, it's possible that I didn't seat the fuse well enough. It's kind of an awkward angle getting up under the dash. I definitely didn't clean the fuse or the socket. I'll check that next. The compartment is completely dry. No signs of water. The only fuse used was the 30A driver's seat power fuse.

 

[ParaJake]

5 month update:
The problem has not been solved and it's getting extremely frustrating. The whole summer I didn't have any issues because I was riding my motorcycle most of the time, but also because the temp never got cold enough for the problem to show itself. So I forgot about it, really, until the weather started getting cold again. And the problem is back. Except now the only thing that works on the center console is the 4 way hazard button. Everything else is dead until I get up to operating temp for a few minutes.

Does anybody have some kind of diagram or list of the fuses that go to the multi-function display?

 

[bloc]

Could the add-a-fuse have stretched the fuse socket open enough that one blade of a fuse isn’t getting good contact? My suspicion that this may happen is why I will not use them.

Maybe consider trying to reinstall the add a fuse into the same spot but leave it disconnected and see if the problem goes away? That would take up the slack if the socket is stretched.

 

[ParaJake]

The spot where the add a fuse was located was still tight when I reinstalled the regular fuse. I don't have the add-a-fuse anymore or I would try this. Maybe I'll pick one up another one and try it. I guess it couldn't hurt at this point. Its driving me nuts. I let my car warm up for 30 minutes before I get in it. But because the system reverts back to new settings, none of the fans are turned on to move air. So the car is still cold.

ETA: it's not even cold here. It hasn't even gotten below 50 Fahrenheit yet.

 

[bloc]

I'm just thinking this would be an easier first step than going through and really troubleshooting it with a multimeter. That may still be required... but obviously much more time consuming and skill based.

 

[Sandroad]

Here’s some fuse information. I wonder why the dash cam was not working? Could very well be a problem created by the add a fuse thingie? Did removing that wiring require any disassembly of the dash that might have affected a connector?

Fuse Box Diagram Toyota Land Cruiser 200/J200/V8 2008-2018

Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses) for Toyota Land Cruiser (200/J200/V8; 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018).

fuse-box.info

 

[ParaJake]

Here’s some fuse information. I wonder why the dash cam was not working? Could very well be a problem created by the add a fuse thingie? Did removing that wiring require any disassembly of the dash that might have affected a connector?

Fuse Box Diagram Toyota Land Cruiser 200/J200/V8 2008-2018

Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses) for Toyota Land Cruiser (200/J200/V8; 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018).

fuse-box.info

Thanks for the link. The camera was a garbage camera. It just died. There were no issues until I took it out. And no disassembly required. The wire was just run up the side of the dash where it meets the door. The wire was stuffed behind the weather seal, behind the A-pillar trim, and into the headliner, then out just above the rear-view which is where the camera was mounted.

 

[ParaJake]

UPDATE: FIXED!

So I was messing around with the fuse box today and figured I'd try to take a look at the fuses. I didn't have a real explanation of what each of the fuses were for. Special thanks to Sandroad for the link to the fuse diagram with explanations to exactly what each of the fuses is used for! Originally, the driver's seat (30A) fuse was used to power the dash cam via a fuse tap. I thought this was strange seeing as there's no way a dash cam requires a 30A fuse. Anyway, thanks to the informative link from Sandroad, I was able to narrow down all of the fuses that mentioned the "multi-display assembly". There were more than one. So I looked at all of these fuses and all were intact. However, I narrowed it down further because there was only one that mentioned both the "multi-display assembly" and the "clock" which were both things that were affected. This was the 7.5A fuse that's listed as #3 on the chart (called ACC on the fuse panel cover). I figured, based on the symptoms, that there was just a microscopic amount of expansion that needed to take place in order for the circuit to work. I used copper sheilding tape that I'm attaching a picture of (I use it when I build guitars to shield the electronics cavity) cut very small strips, taped over the contact blades on the fuse, and reinserted. This worked. The conductive tape must have been enough to bridge the gap. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture to show what the fuse with tape attached looks like.

The only thing I can think happened was I must have inadvertently wiggled the fuse panel just enough to loosen the socket? I'm not sure when this would have happened because I was pretty careful when removing the fuse. This may have also stretched the contacts even more. Fortunately, I don't think this fuse would have a reason to blow anytime soon. But, if it does, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Anyway, I'm very happy to have finally taken care of this annoyance.

Thanks for the help everyone.