unstable RPM's w/AC on; and rust. (1 Viewer)

Joined
Feb 3, 2004
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I test drove an '86 FJ60 today, runs great, but at idle with the AC on, the tack would fluctuate between about 1000 and 1500 RPM's, as if I were pressing and releasing the accelarator pedal every second or two. It was very noticeable. If I buy this truck, am I looking at a simple fix? Is it simply a fast idle adjustment, or something like that?

Also, at $4000, the price looks good (173k w/solid drive train, perfect compression in all six, and clean interior), but the rust around the bottom of the rear wheel wells is up about an inch in parts; hasn't broken through, but the paint is bubbled there. I.e., about a third of the wheel well, with the rust going up the body about an inch. Assuming you agreed that it was worth that w/out the rust, how much would you deduct because of the rust? The rest of the body looks very good. Any pointers would be appreciated. I'm going for my fifth Cruiser, but never was faced with a rust problem. Should I just avoid it? I plan to keep it forever as a DD.
 
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
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morristown nj
if you've got bubbling paint on the wheel wells, the rust id already throough, the paint is only covering it. cut it out, fibreglass it, and keep an eye on it. unless your an EXPERT welder, its gooing to come back over and over again, i have to dig out new rust every fall. the frame is the worst. look under the rear, and check the cross bar that holds the spare where it bolts to the main frame, and the shock mount. these are trouble places.
the carb issue is good for fiddling for a few hours, and you'll be fine
hammer
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
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sisukid1975 said:
Rust is a killer.

One of these days I'll post pics of my restoration.... I had to cut out major sections of the body, wheel wells, q panels, floorboard and weld in new stuff....

As mentioned, you have to be a good welder/bodywork person to keep it from coming back. I'm well versed in body work, and a good friend of mine is a professional welder who was willing to help out/give free lessons.

Lotsa work. If you're looking for something to just tear around in the woods in and dont care about looks, let it rust. But if you're like me and want to spend $30,000 on a fully built cruiser, then fix it and do it right.

I've not yet posted pics cause I'm not at a "stopping point." I hate bragging about incomplete work.

Fred
chicken :flipoff2:
 
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Fairview, NC 28730
 
 
 
unjeep said:
I test drove an '86 FJ60 today, runs great, but at idle with the AC on, the tack would fluctuate between about 1000 and 1500 RPM's, as if I were pressing and releasing the accelarator pedal every second or two. It was very noticeable. If I buy this truck, am I looking at a simple fix? Is it simply a fast idle adjustment, or something like that?
The screw on the front of the carb I thought was for the 'idle up' adjustment. If it is bouncing regularly from 1000 up to 1500 then back to 1000, it is very low on refrigerant. you might add coolant to fix it. I'd recommend just having it vacuumed, evacuated, have the r12 captured, leak checked, (cause if it's low it's got a slow leak somewhere) reoil, and refill. If you do it right now, come summer you won't be worrying about it.
 
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yournamehere said:
The screw on the front of the carb I thought was for the 'idle up' adjustment. If it is bouncing regularly from 1000 up to 1500 then back to 1000, it is very low on refrigerant. you might add coolant to fix it. I'd recommend just having it vacuumed, evacuated, have the r12 captured, leak checked, (cause if it's low it's got a slow leak somewhere) reoil, and refill. If you do it right now, come summer you won't be worrying about it.
three screws, one up front is the a/c idle up, two on back of carb are idle and mix
 

Landpimp

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Mar 14, 2003
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Gig Harbor WA
 
 
 
yes it is and it must be adjusted correctly or the RPMs will bounce up and down with the AC on,

turn AC on, adjust screw on front of carb untill the AC is at 1000rpms or so and the bounce will go away., Mine did this when I got it 5 years ago......still blows cold to Zero degs and no bounce

yournamehere said:
The screw on the front of the carb I thought was for the 'idle up' adjustment. If it is bouncing regularly from 1000 up to 1500 then back to 1000, it is very low on refrigerant. you might add coolant to fix it. I'd recommend just having it vacuumed, evacuated, have the r12 captured, leak checked, (cause if it's low it's got a slow leak somewhere) reoil, and refill. If you do it right now, come summer you won't be worrying about it.
 

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