Unknown plug in trans tunnel

[Nick80]

Hey folks,
I’ve been having some hard shifting problems with my 92 80. It has the full hydro A440f.
I am quite new to the Toyota scene and have also never posted in a forum before so, please, go easy haha.

What are these two plugs? (The three pin has a plug at the bottom and the two wires in the second picture, I assume go to that connector but are missing the actual plastic connection piece the blades lock into.
The big round one was also completely disconnected and doesn’t lock together at all. So after cleaning it (it was fairly clean already which tells me it hasn’t been disconnected long) I dabbed a little dielectric grease on it and rigged up some tipties to keep it together.
What do they do?
Where do I plug each wire into the socket

Now all of these plugs are located on the passenger side of the motor running down next to the fire wall into the trans tunnel.
Thanks for the help guys.
-Nick

 

[jonheld]

Hey folks,
I’ve been having some hard shifting problems with my 92 80. It has the full hydro A440f.
I am quite new to the Toyota scene and have also never posted in a forum before so, please, go easy haha.

What are these two plugs? (The three pin has a plug at the bottom and the two wires in the second picture, I assume go to that connector but are missing the actual plastic connection piece the blades lock into.
The big round one was also completely disconnected and doesn’t lock together at all. So after cleaning it (it was fairly clean already which tells me it hasn’t been disconnected long) I dabbed a little dielectric grease on it and rigged up some tipties to keep it together.
What do they do?
Where do I plug each wire into the socket

Now all of these plugs are located on the passenger side of the motor running down next to the fire wall into the trans tunnel.
Thanks for the help guys.
-Nick

The very first thing you should do is download the Toyota factory service manual (FSM) and electronic wiring diagram (EWD) for your truck in the resources section or from the link in my signature.

That said, the 3 pin triangular shaped connector with 2 pins is for the cruise control overdrive lockup solenoid. Pin 1 is yellow, pin 2 is red/green.
The female connector housing is shown here with the Toyota part number:

IME, that connection makes little if any difference in the way the truck drives or how the transmission reacts under cruise control.

The larger round connector can be (difficult to see from the picture) connector B1 from the neutral start switch. That is what runs the dash tally lamps for the transmission shifter (PRND32L). It's also the switch for the reverse lamps and for the AT/P dash indicator when the transfer case is in neutral.

All of this information came from the EWD which can be downloaded.

 

[jonheld]

I’ve been having some hard shifting problems with my 92 80. It has the full hydro A440f.

Again, from the Toyota FSM, see below.
The transmission throttle cable adjusts overall fluid pressure and will have a large effect on shifting. It should be adjusted in VERY SMALL INCREMENTS starting from the FSM specification. I'll say it again. VERY SMALL INCREMENTS.

FWIW, I would adjust to have a stiff shift point rather than a soft one. Soft shifting indicates slipping clutch plates.
Another note, the A440F is very sensitive to fluid level. At normal operating temperature after a nice drive, the level should be just at the HOT mark on the dipstick, and the fluid should be a bright candy red color.

 

[Nick80]

Again, from the Toyota FSM, see below.
The transmission throttle cable adjusts overall fluid pressure and will have a large effect on shifting. It should be adjusted in VERY SMALL INCREMENTS starting from the FSM specification. I'll say it again. VERY SMALL INCREMENTS.

FWIW, I would adjust to have a stiff shift point rather than a soft one. Soft shifting indicates slipping clutch plates.
Another note, the A440F is very sensitive to fluid level. At normal operating temperature after a nice drive, the level should be just at the HOT mark on the dipstick, and the fluid should be a bright candy red color.

View attachment 4025249

All of this was super helpful! Thank you so much! I got everything plugged back in and now I have lights on the dash and reverse lights haha. I’ve not had that since owning this thing.
After looking at the cable and stopper I found that fully closed the measurement was 33mm. And open it was 60! Wildly out of adjustment. So I brought it back to spec and took it for a quick drive. It shifted wayyyy smoother however, it shifts out of first very quickly and feel even more sluggish then it used to. I’ll start the very small adjustments now.
Another issue happened recently that hasn’t happened before. This is after the initial adjustment of the trans. Sitting at a light in the turn lane, the cruiser decided to just die. No sputter, no surge, just off.
When I went to try and restart it, it would fire and then shut off again over and over until I got it to pop and I got into the throttle before it could die again.
It’s done this before on start up where it might take a crank or two to get it to run but it’s never died. I’m not sure what to look at.
I’ve only owned this rig for 8 months. I’m catching up on a lot of maintenance that the last owner didn’t do.

 

[jonheld]

When I went to try and restart it, it would fire and then shut off again over and over

Remove the large rubber intake plenum and look for cracks in the bellows area.

What's happening is the starter circuit is energizing the fuel pump while cranking the starter, but when you release the ignition key from the start position, the flap in the AFM that's supposed to keep the fuel pump running is closing due to an air leak.
Once the RPMs increase, the suction from the intake overcomes the air leak and keeps the flap open and the fuel pump continues to run.

 

[Nick80]

Remove the large rubber intake plenum and look for cracks in the bellows area.

What's happening is the starter circuit is energizing the fuel pump while cranking the starter, but when you release the ignition key from the start position, the flap in the AFM that's supposed to keep the fuel pump running is closing due to an air leak.
Once the RPMs increase, the suction from the intake overcomes the air leak and keeps the flap open and the fuel pump continues to run.

 

[Nick80]

I’ll go pull it apart right now.
I also have a new trans pan gasket and filter for the beast. It’s time for the old girl to get some proper care.

 

[jonheld]

I’ll go pull it apart right now.
I also have a new trans pan gasket and filter for the beast. It’s time for the old girl to get some proper care.

The transmission intake filter (strainer) is a metal mesh screen that can just be cleaned. If you R/R it, you'll need the proper gasket.

 

[Nick80]

Remove the large rubber intake plenum and look for cracks in the bellows area.

What's happening is the starter circuit is energizing the fuel pump while cranking the starter, but when you release the ignition key from the start position, the flap in the AFM that's supposed to keep the fuel pump running is closing due to an air leak.
Once the RPMs increase, the suction from the intake overcomes the air leak and keeps the flap open and the fuel pump continues to run.

View attachment 4027536

As I went to loosen parts to take the tube off and inspect it I found 3 of the clamps were extremely loose. The loosest one being the connection on the throttle body itself. Loose to the point where you could easily slip off the tube from the throttle body. I’m thinking that was my main leak. I tightened every and actually found a couple little tiny pieces of vac line I haven’t replaced yet and sit that also. I think I have now replaced all vac lines. I found a new coolant leak sadly but that’s the point in looking around a bit. I adjusted the kick cable a little more so it holds first a little longer. Test drive and then fluid with filter