Thank you, I was legitimately concerned.
Underbody rust inhibitor treatment recommendations. (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Suntory
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You could always just move to California, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico or parts of Texas.
I will most likely go ahead do the Linex undercarriage coating.
Nah, you have to also include New Mexico and Nevada. They continue to move east.I fixed it
I just fluid filmed the cruiser and my Tacoma this week. Tons of salt on the roads here in Utah. People would hate it. Also we’re full, no more roomI fixed it
Literally the worst thing you can do. Linings trap water and create aggressive corrosion cells that go undetected until it’s too late.I will most likely go ahead do the Linex undercarriage coating.
Nah, you have to also include New Mexico and Nevada. They continue to move east.
Agree with you 100%. But I recall they use Valuguard. Isn’t this a wool wax based product? I haven’t found anyone in my area who does Krown fluid film or Nu oil undercoating. I probably don’t really need to do undercoating at all. It rarely snows here but geez do they brine the damn roads like crazy if the weather says 10% chance of snow.
I am thinking with the new 200 I am getting, that living in Tn. we rarely have a salt solution on the roads. Not sure if I really need to fluid film or not. Also, would it be a bad idea to buy rubber plugs to plug the frame holes to prevent any salt solution and debris from getting inside?
prharper
GOLD Star
I’ve been experimenting with different formulas. All using a spray gun w compressor.
First winter was Fluid Film. It stinks and it’s messy. If I recall, a gallon lasted me two seasons. Seems to have worked good. You can get in cans and no need for compressor.
Then I switched to Wool Wax. Way less smell and thicker. I hear same company owns both brands. It’s held up well and prefer this over Fluid Film.
Really need to put down a tarp or drop cloth when spraying if you don’t want it on your driveway, which also serves as a basketball court for my son.
I just tried a third brand called Corrosion Free after speaking with @unclemat in Ouray. Bought their deluxe kit.
corrosionfree.com
It went on really good, no smell and didn’t drip. Probably the least messy to apply. Will judge the results in Spring or Summer.
Something is better than nothing. As others said, lube the KDSS with marine grease. Mine was still on there from last year.
First winter was Fluid Film. It stinks and it’s messy. If I recall, a gallon lasted me two seasons. Seems to have worked good. You can get in cans and no need for compressor.
Then I switched to Wool Wax. Way less smell and thicker. I hear same company owns both brands. It’s held up well and prefer this over Fluid Film.
Really need to put down a tarp or drop cloth when spraying if you don’t want it on your driveway, which also serves as a basketball court for my son.
I just tried a third brand called Corrosion Free after speaking with @unclemat in Ouray. Bought their deluxe kit.
Rust Cure Formula 3000 DIY Deluxe Kit with RP-460HD | Corrosion FREE
Rust Cure Formula 3000 with CSC 850 Rustproofing, DIY Kit includes RP-460 HD Applicator Gun with wands 120 PSI Max, your choice of 1G (4L) or 5G (20L) Jug of Rust Cure.
corrosionfree.com
It went on really good, no smell and didn’t drip. Probably the least messy to apply. Will judge the results in Spring or Summer.
Something is better than nothing. As others said, lube the KDSS with marine grease. Mine was still on there from last year.
Don't plug the frame holes on the bottom. The ones on the sides are probably OK though many come plugged. But any on the bottom are designed to allow water to get out of the frame
You should cover the KDSS valve screws in marine grease. They will rust regardless
FF is up to you. If you don't get salt on the roads I wouldn't bother, unless you're really intending on keeping your 200 for 30 years. If you get salt it's worth the effort
Orange Hat
SILVER Star
I recently applied PB Blaster Surface Shield. Went on easy enough but did drip some but I had put some cardboard down to protect the driveway. Having recently pulled the axles out of my 80 for rebuild, I was more aware on where to spray (a lot of which was already mentioned above)…frame welds, fasteners, entire axle, shock and arm mounts, etc. I also pulled the spare to make sure I got the mechanism and surrounding area all covered.
We got back from Breckenridge (snow and salt driving) last night so I put the Cruiser up on the ramps and washed everything down (including pulling the spare). Everything looked really good and still has that “oily look” look to it. Being a Texas vehicle, I know I have a head start but it sure does “scratch the itch” to keep the undercarriage as clean as possible.
We got back from Breckenridge (snow and salt driving) last night so I put the Cruiser up on the ramps and washed everything down (including pulling the spare). Everything looked really good and still has that “oily look” look to it. Being a Texas vehicle, I know I have a head start but it sure does “scratch the itch” to keep the undercarriage as clean as possible.
I applied marine grease to the KDSS area on my frame, and can attest, that after numerous undercarriage washes that stuff doesn't budge! I'm thinking about using the marine grease to coat my undercarriage.
Have any of you has used Marine grease in any other areas of their frame/ vehicle besides the KDSS valves with good results?
@prharper Glad to hear you liked how Corrosion Free applies. You will not be disappointed. I am on the 4th winter on several vehicles and with excellent results.
I probably tend to over apply it - like I apply it late in fall (November). It does not drip then... until hot weather in summer, when it becomea more liquid. It really lasts - it sort of creates a layer of mixed oil/crud that clings to the outside of frame. In practice it only needs touch ups in the most exposed places. This year the LC got really dirty in Moab so I did pressure wash the underside quite well, so had to reapply more than usual.
Inside surfaces, like inside the frame and body cavities, I think are one time deals, maybe reapply every few years.
I probably tend to over apply it - like I apply it late in fall (November). It does not drip then... until hot weather in summer, when it becomea more liquid. It really lasts - it sort of creates a layer of mixed oil/crud that clings to the outside of frame. In practice it only needs touch ups in the most exposed places. This year the LC got really dirty in Moab so I did pressure wash the underside quite well, so had to reapply more than usual.
Inside surfaces, like inside the frame and body cavities, I think are one time deals, maybe reapply every few years.
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I didn’t use marine grease, but applied Woolwax HV (High Viscosity) - a similar product to marine grease, but lanolin based. I applied it to the high wash areas of the frame, KDSS, control arms, shock towers, and rear axle. It’s still there and going strong; after six months it’s basically a no change in appearance and coverage. I expect it to last 5 years minimum. The stuff has the consistency of smooth peanut butter, much like marine grease.
With marine grease, I think you’d be okay. You’d definitely have to slather it on by hand. Maybe get a couple of dish gloves that you don’t care about throwing away afterwards.
