Under coating/Rust question.

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JSB

Joined
Jul 18, 2003
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6
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47
I'm looking at a 100 in Boston. It's a 99, and it shows a little rust on the grill guard. They claim there is no rust anywhere on the LC except the guard. They also said the under coating prevents the rust, and has done well.

What is the general concensus on the undercoating? Does it really hold up, or should I expect some rust, on a 6+ year old LC from Boston.

It has 63k on it for $19k. Does that sound fair? I was going to offer him $17.5

Thanks!
 
What year is it? And where are you from?

I have seen the lowest price on cruisers up north. But I am scared of rust and corrosion. sp? My fj62 was from MN and its preatty bad, even though it was well taken care of.

I say keep looking. Unless you are from up north then you will inevitably have to deal with it either way. Me I am just spooked by rust period. Not starting in on the fact that it can make corrosion on the electricals, and especially anything to do with the AHC (if you go with a LX)
 
It's a 99, and I'm in Texas. I'm affraid of the same thing. There is visible rust on his grill guard. The problem is, everyone down here still wants a ton for their LCs. I keep hearing how they have dropped in price due to gas, but I haven't seen that.
 
A mere undercoating won't do it You have to pull the doors/tailgate apart and cost the insides, too, and recoat it yearly. This is what Ziebarts did to my mini in upstate NY (I only had it done once although they recommended it every year, but a few hundred $/yr gets expensive). In the end, my tailgate rusted from inside/out (started after about 2 yrs). What happens is the salt mist enters the bottom drain holes, getting inside the tailgate. Also, you have salt water/mist entering between the window glass and door. Also, brake hose connections majorly corrode so that you'll be challenged to remove them. You'd be better off paying a few grand extra for a rig from the Sunbelt states. That's why they cost more than Midwest or Northeast rigs...no salt, no extreme winter temps...
 
I've been more of a fan of painting the underside with used 90wt than undercoating. The undercoating on an FJ60 years back in CO had magesium-chloride all over it regardless of washing, I would assume the same thing for sodium-chloride.
 
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Cool...Thanks guys, you solidified my decision. I'm going to keep looking.
 
I would not take a salesman's word on rust - they are almost always wrong. Then when I find rust or corrosion, they act surprised I think it is serious.

If there is rust on the grill guard it is not a good sign. Open the hood and look at the engine block, if it looks corroded or rusty, move on. Check the metal tops of the brake master cylinder area, hose connections, and other metal parts in the engine compartment for rust and corrosion. Another place to look is to drop teh tailgate and look around it, then lift the plastic flap and see the condition of the hinges. If those areas look nice, then it will be worth looking underneath. If those areas look rather poor or questionable, no need to bother looking underneath.

Undercoating may help for a few years, but once rust sets in, the undercoating will help accelerate the damage by trapping moisture and not allowing it to dry out.

Yes, I would keep moving. I do not think you will get an honest comment from those salesmen.
 
Rust

I have a 99, and it has rust all over the suspension components, differentials, etc., but it's just surface rust. I've lived in the north all my life, and my father has driven trucks for 500k miles (mostly Chevy trucks), and has has never had a problem. I've see trucks from all over the US, and you will almost always be able to find some surface rust.
IMO, I wouldn't under coat any vehicle with an open boxed section frame like most, if not all, toyota trucks. Much of the time, that just helps to hold in the moisture, and encourage rusting.
I just make sure to wash the LC and our car throughly (including undercarriage) every week, if not sooner during the winter (due to the salt).
Personally, I'd be more concerned about the suspension joints. The salt can really eat away at the polymer/nylon that is used in all the ball-joints, etc. Replacing all of those can be a lot more expensive then replacing a grill guard.
Fortunately, the suspension can be checked easily by a competent mechanic. I would always recommend a third party "pre purchase" inspection. Take it to someone who is very thourgh. Personally, I tend to trust a reputable private mechanic over a dealer.
Good Luck!
 
You should expect some rust on a six year old truck in the NE. A few spots of rust on the grill guard is nothing to worry about IMO. often the grill and hood have rock chips that get attacked by the salt and water and will show rust without the whole truck having a rust problem. (hood chips will need fixing)

I would look at all the weep holes in the doors and around the wheel wells and rocker panels. That is were any serious rust will start. If you otherwise think this truck is a good one take it to a body shop that specializes in rust repair and have them inspect it. (small bucks for a 17k "investment".)

Don't trust the salesman but remember they are as ignorant about the underpriced gems on thier lots as they are the lemons so the educated consumer can do OK even on a saleslot.
 

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