Looks like the ABS pump on my 99 has failed. Suddenly almost no brakes, and the abs and brake lights are on.. I've been truck shopping for a while already so I'm going to try to avoid spending 2 grand to get it going. Haven't done any troubleshooting yet since its pouring rain at the moment, maybe i'll be lucky and it will be a relay or connection but.. just in case, Does anyone know of a wrecker with 100 series cruisers on the lot?. ? I checked cruiserparts.net already...
Uhoh..My first high dollar repair at 232K.
- Thread starter mikeacs
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did you try car-part.com? when I was looking they listed 4runners as being compatible but I dont think so??
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- #4
Thanks...I'll definitely try the m/c rebuild first!...sending a PM to C-Dan
Did you have any other symptoms leading up to the problem before losing brakes and the abs lights popping on?
Did you have any other symptoms leading up to the problem before losing brakes and the abs lights popping on?
BTDT, test and verify the ABD booster motor is not in fact working (tap 12V into the plug), if it is in fact non-op there isn't much to do besides replace. I opted for a complete used setup rather than the OE new replacement. 10k and no issues. My thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/564500-brake-system-failure-bring-me-up-speed.html
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- #6
Saw the thread on your brake woes earlier...I will verify the 12V signal at the pump , still hoping for luck there...Hoping to not have to spend big bucks...but after 232K miles with very few problems I really cant complain..much..Would be nice to find a used setup if the pump is bad, but I don't know of any salvage yards local that would have a cruiser...I'll find out tomorrow.
I take it only the 1998-99 master cyl and abs pump will work on my 99...can anyone verify?...
Thanks for the great advice so far!
I take it only the 1998-99 master cyl and abs pump will work on my 99...can anyone verify?...
Thanks for the great advice so far!
I'd have to do some scouring on the interchange but they master that came to me (from CruiserParts) was not a direct interchange for my 2000, several of the sensor plugs were different. We swapped the sensor plugs, cleaned it up and installed. I'd suspect that there is more interchange than Toyota part numbers will reveal based on similar plug changes such as I dealt with.
Fast forward nearly a year and the Cruiser is better than ever
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...dy-build-thread-2000-uzj100-land-cruiser.html
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- #10
Hmm..Could be the same problem then, but I did have pedal and normal brakes for a few stops...then I had to STAND on the pedal to stop...Still full of fluid...and I think I can hear the pump running...so hopefully it is the master....thanks again....
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- #11
More information....finally got time to troubleshoot , the jumper test on the DLC1 plug produced the codes 52,53 and 56....booster pump malfunction, booster pump relay mafunction, and accumulation low pressure malfunction..I hear the relay for the abs clicking every few second....but can not hear the pump running (unless its extremely quiet)
Does this still sound the m/c rebuild will cure this?...I'm waiting for the plunger kit at present, but I'm wondering if it is the pump due to the codes....
Thanks....
Does this still sound the m/c rebuild will cure this?...I'm waiting for the plunger kit at present, but I'm wondering if it is the pump due to the codes....
Thanks....
12V into the pump?
- Thread starter
- #13
didn't test...but i'll verify that in a bit...but did test the abs fuses and the relay is clicking every few seconds...so I kind of assumed the 12v is present.
10-4, the pump is a simple diagnosis really, if it has 12V into it, its not working and needs to be fixed. Its not quiet, you'll know if its humming along.
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- #15
Do I have to pull the assembly to get at the pump wires to test? seems really tight around the booster assy, not really seeing any way to get at the pump harness...maybe i'm overlooking the pump connector though..
Matador98
SILVER Star
It's the pump. The motor gets dead spots and then won't start, sorry. I was one of the lucky ones and got one from cruiser parts. Mine failed at about 230k as well. Just sold it with 262k. It was the single largest failure while I owned it (5 years).
Nope, I was able to unplug the connector and get terminals too it. With the key on I had immediate 12V. I'll have to pop my hood tomorrow but I don't recall it being super easy to get to but doable.
OUr brake assembly was replaced at about 200k. Cost a cool $2200 at the local dealer. That was wtih a $500 discount. in hindsight, I would have taken it to a local repair shop and bought a unit out of a wreck. The only issue is that with the miles that these vehicles are getting to, there aren't many low mileage donors out there. Phil
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- #19
An update for those interested....looked all over for a unit out of a wreck, finally talked to an import yard that said "he could get one"..$350 complete....not a bad deal...so I wait the 4 days to get it in, all the while having the feeling it would be the wrong part..I told him I thought only the 98-99 L/C units would interchange, he said no, there were several that would fit from various toyotas like the 04 Tundra, etc..Well, the part came in today, and wrong part! ...looked very close but there were two lines coming in the side of the new unit, where mine had only one...same two fittings in the front...Great, now I'm back to square one. I looked at the actual abs pumps on both units and noticed they looked to be identical...Decided to swap the pumps over, and put the assembly back together. Put my old unit back in the truck and heard the "new" pump kick on as it should...ABS and Brake light still on of course because I hadn't bled the system. I hit the brakes a few times and both lights went off sp decided to try the brakes around in my yard, and the truck stops as it always did. I haven't even bleed the brakes or add fluid at this point. If the pedal feels normal in the morning I'm going to head straight to the shop and let them put it on the lift and bleed the brakes, its worth it to me to avoid laying on the cold concrete floor tonight. I'm just getting over a back injury and I was not looking forward to the bleeding part of the job.
I did not get to rebuild the master, as the plunger kit hasn't made it in. I would have liked to have done that too while the unit was on the bench, but I need my truck and I had no issues with the master other than the pump failure. It would really be no big deal to me now to pull it back out if the master acts up in the future. Plus I've had my fill of the Nissan Sentra I've been driving around while my cruisers been down.
By the way I put 12v on the old pump and it would not turn or even spark...open circuit apparently..
I did not get to rebuild the master, as the plunger kit hasn't made it in. I would have liked to have done that too while the unit was on the bench, but I need my truck and I had no issues with the master other than the pump failure. It would really be no big deal to me now to pull it back out if the master acts up in the future. Plus I've had my fill of the Nissan Sentra I've been driving around while my cruisers been down.
By the way I put 12v on the old pump and it would not turn or even spark...open circuit apparently..
hoser
SILVER Star
The 98-99 have only one rear brake line to the rear axle. 00+ have VSC/TRAC and two rear brake lines.
