U-joint Questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

C6H12O6

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Threads
145
Messages
2,069
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
So I pulled the rear driveline this afternoon to lube the splines and grease the u-joints. I got the splines cleaned off nicely and re-lubed, but the u-joints didn't seem like they would take any grease ~ nothing swells, nothing oozes, it just won't go in.

One of the joints has what feels like a little flat spot when hand turning it. They don't really have much give, but the one has that feeling like it's rubbing inside the spider bearing. There also appears to be a little rust-colored grease around the spot where the spider and bearing cap come together.

I've read most of the archived posts and FAQs about this, but I find differing info. Some say it is just as easy as pulling the old one and slapping the new one in, and some get all techy, talking about color-coded snap rings and centering the joint in the shaft. Am I ok to just pull the old one and pop in the new one with the supplied clips?

I'm almost considering just throwing the whole thing back together, after I replace the stripped bolt attaching the shaft to the rear diff :doh: :doh: . I don't have any vibrations yet. I do have a pretty nasty clunk when I put it in gear... Probably should just replace them both while I have the shaft out.

FWIW, I also noticed that I had virtually dry splines ~ hard white grease dried up at the end under the zirc fitting and a little bit of black grease around the inside of the dust cover, but no grease packed in like I was worried about. Instead, it looks as though this truck has gone 176K miles with no grease. :doh:
 
Don't worry about that complicated garbage, hammer the old one out, ease the new one in and make sure it turns freely on both axes. (this tells you if it is centered).

Do it now so you don't strip another bolt next time..


Dan
 
Yeah, I'm an idiot. The last bolt holding the shaft to the rear diff wouldn't come out, so I just kept wrenching on it like a moron. I didn't realize the shaft was sitting on the little lip inside. I should have just pried the plate from the diff and it would have come loose on its own.

Also, moron tip number two...
Don't draw your match marks on the shaft with a sharpie. It comes right off as soon as you start cleaning all the grease off. Good thing I paid attention to where everything was when I took it apart. What a jackass.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom