Oh crap. Indidnt realize the rear diff was offset.The rear is offset and the np241 would likely exit directly into the gas tank or close to it.
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Oh crap. Indidnt realize the rear diff was offset.The rear is offset and the np241 would likely exit directly into the gas tank or close to it.
I mean complete rear axle swap. Suddenly it's an even bigger job than I had hoped.Rear diff swap?
marks4x4 in australia makes a kit to swap the OE transfer case to Gm transmissions.The rear is offset and the np241 would likely exit directly into the gas tank or close to it.
Way too much work involved. I'm pretty sure you would need the whole donor vehicle and it might require you to run the instrument cluster. Much easier to add an LSI mean complete rear axle swap. Suddenly it's an even bigger job than I had hoped.
What about swapping in a tundra 5.7? Any major gains?
Yup I use them on every buildmarks4x4 in australia makes a kit to swap the OE transfer case to Gm transmissions.
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A kit for any specific swap will be generic at the very best. There are just so many variables that it is near impossible. I have not had two swaps on the same vehicle be the same yet. Motor mounts will most likely be the only repeatable part as even cross members will change with application. Some insist on shifter location dictating drive line position, others do not for example.
Wiring is about impossible to just "plug and play". To my mind, tying into the OEM systems like the fuel pump circuit to power the new pump etc is just building in future issues. Imagine being the guy 8 years from now trying to figure all that out when the truck breaks down.
In short, it is going to be a learning experience no matter what you do. Obviously, if you have experience with swaps in general that will go a long way. I'd start by researching what systems in your rig will be affected by the swap. I can tell you I'd be losing the transfer case myself and figuring out how to use a manual case . That will remove any "hacks" required to get the T case to work .
I have a Dmax swapped suburban and it's great but I'm tired of driving it. Just started driving our old 100 this week for a change of pace since the kiddo went to college.
CSK out in Cali. He is Hwood on dieselplace and sells on ebay where I bought mine. 2004 Sub with 2005 LLY Dmax, Ally, and Diff. Really awesome. Mine was hit in the front end at around 80k. Donor was a fleet service truck that was rear ended so never towed and a 2wd. So he swapped the front ends so my sub has the hd front end which I like better. Have about 60k miles on it and only repair has been the water pump but the a/c clutch may have gone out last week.Can you give some detail, durburb or DYI? I was thinking of doing getting one
Thanks, I have seen some of his posts and sales on the fleabay. I too am thinking the 200 route. Hell I might just LSX the 80 and upgrade the brakes. One reason I want the D-burb is the room for all my crap and dogs on hunting trips. The bigger boat would be the bonus. Yours MPG low 20's not towing?CSK out in Cali. He is Hwood on dieselplace and sells on ebay where I bought mine. 2004 Sub with 2005 LLY Dmax, Ally, and Diff. Really awesome. Mine was hit in the front end at around 80k. Donor was a fleet service truck that was rear ended so never towed and a 2wd. So he swapped the front ends so my sub has the hd front end which I like better. Have about 60k miles on it and only repair has been the water pump but the a/c clutch may have gone out last week.
I'm at the point of just parking it for towing to the races or driving it and rebuilding the suspension/seats/stereo. May downgrade from a 28' enclosed for the races to something that our LX could tow or get the wife a 570....decisions.
If he would detail or at least clean the engine bay, maybe he would sell it faster.Apparently it's still for sale with new wheels.
$16k or trade with An SRT jeep
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