turbo help needed. trying to wrap up the loose ends

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Sep 11, 2007
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I'm about done my 22rte swap, but there are a few things I'm uncertain of.

Does anyone have any pics of the lines that run to the radiator off the turbo? I bought a complete 22rte but never saw it inside the truck, so I'm not sure how the lines are run.

Also, there is an O2 sensor right on the back of the turbo. Can I just use the plug from my current O2 sensor and block the old one off? Could I block the one off on the rear of the turbo and keep my current one plugged in? Will the ECU act up if it is not wired in?

And my last question...
There are two lines that come off the bottom of the turbo. I know one is for oil because it is a banjo line that goes right to the block, but the other is roughly a half inch in diameter and ends at a flange. Is there another piece to attach to the flange that has the banjo fitting on the end to go to the other oil port on the block, or...?

I posted a pic to show what I'm confused about. I circled in blue what I think are the lines for the radiator, and the oil lines in black. Am I correct? You can also see the O2 sensor in the back there where the wire and plug is.


Anything you can tell me would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
turbo help.webp
 
I own a 2WD RTE truck, but it has a AR turbo on it now so it is not stock.

My oil supply is now a piece of -4 braided SS hose. I'll have to look at where it is tapped into the block.

The top coolant hose goes to a barb on the top radiator tank. Makes the radiator unique to the turbo trucks. I'd consider making a tube that interrupts the upper radiator hose with a port in it for the turbo's coolant discharge. I would be sure to point the discharge tube, inside of the larger tube, downstream and not just straight in.

Though I've never seen it (durned stock height 2wd trucks!!), I have to imagine that the lower banjo fitting is the coolant supply from a point on the block somewhere, but it is possible that it is the oil supply. Would pay to be sure!

Most ECU's will run w/o an O2 sensor, but they do it in varying degrees of open loop and possibly "limp home" modes. I'd plug the port nearest the turbo as the EGT's will be quite high right there. The O2's need heat to light off, but I've got to think that you can over temperature them too.
 
banjo lines

oh, that makes sense. i know where the banjo lines runs because it is pretty obvious, but i thought it was for oil, but it must be for coolant.

on the block, there are two bolts next to each other, one for the pictured banjo line, and one, i'm guessing, for a nother banjo line. where is that other banjo line?

what is the larger diameter line with the flange next to my turbo's banjo line? is that the oil supply?

if the top coolant line goes to the radiator, where does that lower seemingly similar tube go?


still a bit lost, i think i got in over my head, but i'm getting close to wrapping this up....thanks for the help!
 
Your black circles are the oil lines. The bajo is the goes-into and the flange is the goes-out to.

Your blue circles are the water lines. The top one goes out to top of the radiator. The bottom one comes from the hose that connects the water pump to the metal tube going to the bottom of your radiator.
In the intake tube, there is an oddly placed little metal tube. That is where the top hose connects through.

If I were you, I would try to use the O2 on the turbo. Or, if it's bad, find a turbo specific O2 sensor.

Do your self a favor and pull off the round piece the O2 is plugged into and check to see if the internal wastegate (flapper) is cracked. This will save you a sh*t load of time and money.
Also, Go with a bigger exhaust ASAP. 2in is a good start.
 
turbohelpcopy.jpg


Might give you a better idea.
 
turbo

awesome, thanks Kris. I'm going with a 2 1/2 exhaust, and I'll check the o2 sensor flapper thinger too....

So I am missing a piece of hose? One that goes from that larger diameter flanged line into a banjo line to go to the other port on the block? Where can I find one?

thanks again!
 
Have you ever heard of 22rte-trucks.com ? There's usually some cool stuff floating around there.


lasercopy.jpg


The banjo fitting goes to the yellow arrow it's below and to the right of the water fitting. The drain is the red.

ct20bdpboltsqe8copy.jpg

On your turbo take off the elbow where the O2 sensor is, and check where the blue arrows are. This isn't exactly your turbo but it's close enough.
 
yikes

oi, i didn't realize that flange goes right to the motor. i pulled the turbo assembly off a while back and had it sitting in my shop staring at it scratching my head. i figured there was two banjo fittings that go to the block because those two bolts are right next to each other. what is the water fitting for then?

thanks for the pics Kris, a big help. now i know where to hook everything up, and i'm going to check out that wastegate before i bolt the turbo back up.
 
what is the water fitting for then?


cooling. That Turdblow is water/oil cooled. (Well, oil lubed really, but it cools it as well)



x2 on the wastegate.


I'd put a turbo oil pump on it. The turbo needing good flow, and as far as it is (so to speak) off the system Toyota might have put it on for a reason. RTE's TMK, have a up-graded pump.



PM me if you need any pics. My POS is almost together (have to tear it all back apart now) so I can prolly get you pics.

tell me specifficaly, and I'll get you the specific pic.

:cheers:
 
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The one on the block is for....um.....reassurance that you have water? No clue.

Another thing, you might want to make sure the oil tubes aren't blocked.

I would also consider running some oil through the turbo before you put it on, or, build oil pressure before you actually run the motor the first time.
 
oil

cool, thanks for the help guys. I don't have class tomorrow, so I should be able to wrap this up.

my only other problem is the ecu. The turbo ecu plugged right in except for one leftover plug. did i need the turbo harness too? i thought i only needed the turbo ecu and kept the old harness. is there a way around replacing the harness?
 
You shouldn't need the harness. I didn't need the harness. Mine plugged right in no strings attached. What extra plug are you talking about? What year is your turck?
 
ah ha

well it looks like i used the turbo wiring harness and forgot (this project has been drug out over a long time span). the ecu plugs in just the same, all four plugs, but one plug coming from the motor harness to another harness coming from under the dash do not match. maybe i just need to grab a 22re harness? i might be able to get pics in a few days too...

thanks again for all the help! everything is hooked up except that one plug and my radiator. can't wait!
 
one plug coming from the motor harness to another harness coming from under the dash do not match.




could it be the boost indicator? I'm sure Toyota wouldn't put (wire) all its truck dashes in with it, even if they weren't Turbo's.


I say that b/c some things like the harnesses for the clocks were on all trucks even if it didn't come with it, except for the base stripped down versions.
 
boost indicator

well the one plug on the engine harness might be the boost indicator, but there is also a plug coming from the dash that doesn't have anything to plug into. so what would that one be?

i'll have to get some pics....
 
seems like I read somewhere a guy put a turbo harness in and wired a boost light where the old "antenna up" (84-88) switches used to be.
 
Turbo gets oil and drains it from the same side?? Intresting, never seen that before.

One more "benefit" the CT-20 bestowed upon us.


seems like I read somewhere a guy put a turbo harness in and wired a boost light where the old "antenna up" (84-88) switches used to be.

Why in the hell would you want a light when you could have a gauge? Instead of people asking "What's that stupid light for?" they'll say "This thing has a turbo!"
 
Are we talking automotive jewelry gauges, or real D/A Instrumentation? If we're not talking about the latter than I'll take a light with a properly configured sender (not necessarily the stock sender!!!!) over any of the aftermarket gauges. When those gauge mfg's start publishing accuracy and repeatability specifications, then I'll be willing to consider them. Until then the light works just fine, & my RTE came with a gauge installed by the PO.
 
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