Turbo 15B 80/40

[frankenyota]

Over the last few years l have been slowly collecting parts for a build l always wanted to do. A stretched 40 series ute cab on an 80 series chassis. I bought a HJ47 ute that came with a late model cab l got from my brother and traded some time working on all the 40 he bought for spare parts. I also had many parts l collected in my stash as l know how hard it was getting to find good parts.
A local guy had a rolling chassis from a 94 model 80 series so that came home for a reasonable price.
Here are a few pics of my HJ47 with the cab on the back, solid cab to start with.

 

[frankenyota]

These are some old pics of when l picked up the chassis. Stripped off the rear bumper and LPG tank. Then started to give it a good clean down and cut off the factory mounts.
Complete rolling chassis, tailshafts and bolts, fuel tank, 4wd switch, gearbox crossmember, steering shaft, brake booster and master cylinder all included in the deal. Its the later model with the larger disc brakes and 16" wheels.
No motor or gearbox, plan was to find a 15BF add a turbo and use my spare H151 gearbox.
Big4 conversions make an adapter plate to run the H15# gearboxes behind the 15B manual bell housing, or if possible run an A440 automatic.

 

[frankenyota]

Had three options for mounting the cab
1 - Build my own mounts
2 - Buy McKinnons cruiser mounts
3 - Buy Refab cruiser mounts
Found a set of the Refab mounts for sale 2nd hand so bought them for a bargain, these mounts are very well designed and install instructions made the decision easy. Just needed a light sandblast and some primer.
They need to be welded together but all instructions are on his web site which has some good write ups for 80 Chassis 40 series builds.
Pictures are from the forsale ad.

 

[frankenyota]

Then began the nervous task of cutting off the mounts from the chassis to prep for its new mounts and cab.
Again great instructions of the Refab website for anyone interested

 

[frankenyota]

I decided to tack on the body mounts and weld the pieces together.
Here are some pictures of the mounts mocked up.
Still parts gathering as l go, now have almost everything including doors , rear wall and steel roof, already have a front screen with triple wipers.

 

[frankenyota]

More of the body mounts, I'm using the 80 series mount cups and bushes.
Fitted the front upper guards to see how the wheel position looks.

 

[frankenyota]

Wanted to check out the cab for rust and damage to see what l was in for, surprised how good this thing actually is.
There needs some work to the drivers floor which had a previous repair, not sure how far l should go with this yet. Spent some time removing the old sound deadner and knocking out and straightening all l could for now. Drivers side turned out better but has a few rust repairs to do as you can see.

 

[frankenyota]

Trimmed the rib around the brake booster so l could fit the 80 series double diaphragm booster with master. Has to be turned upside down to fit and have a small spacer behind it.

 

[frankenyota]

Picked up this steel roof as a donor to build a stretched roof, l was lucky enough to score an original steel roof and back wall for my ute.
Grabbed this down the coast before heading away for a two week work stint.
The surface rust cleaned up well after a poly strip disc job, then hit it with some rust converter and stored it in the shed for the future stretch.

 

[frankenyota]

That about brings us to the most recent purchase a Dyna 15BF 4.1 litre direct injection diesel.
This nearly didn't happen as it was looking like l wouldn't find one.
Started looking at the M57 with ZF 6 speed gearbox from an X5 BMW which is getting popular here in Oz.
Then a wrecking Dyna popped up with the 15BF engine and l decided to drive the 300km round trip to have a look and test drive.
She started straight up from cold and run well with no smoke, so after taking this thing for a drive we made a deal we were both happy with.
I offered to come help pull the motor as that way i could get all the lines and wiring undamaged but he was going to pull it while l was at work.
Then a few days later he offered to give my money for the deposit back saying that his neighbours were calling the EPA and some long winded story.
I stuck to my guns and said we had a deal and he must have had a change of heart and the deal went through, l was thinking he had a better offer?
So finally comes the day to collect and while l backed the trailer up to the concrete where he had the engine on the crane and next thing l know he flips the bloody crane over and the engine hits the deck. So l help get that back up and reverse the trailer under the lifted motor as it seems he has buckled the cheap engine crane and it doesn't wheel very well.
With the engine tied down and all the parts l needed for the conversion l head off happy with my new 15BF, even thou the rough bastard cut the wiring harness and power steering lines wrecker style.

 

[frankenyota]

So have the 15B a good wash down and got her on the engine stand to start a strip down on all the bolt ons and work out a parts list.
I will be removing the ACSD and deleting the coolant lines to it, a blanking plate and a new oring is needed for this. Also the coolant block drain had a feed line from it that was barely hanging in, found a replacement from another B engine. Pulled the oil cooler to reseal it and found a huge amount of build up so went about scraping all the crack off, soaking the stainless core in some CLR to help remove all the grime. Turned out like a new one. Then went about wire wheeling and poly stripping the rust from the block. All removable parts get sand blasted and painted. Also considering putting a torque wrench over the bolts on the side of the block. Have seen one of these engines drop a plug out the side and damage a camshaft, it was badly mistreated thou.
Also ordering a pump timing tool since l don’t have one to make sure the timing is spot on. So all new manifold gaskets etc and new water pump, injector oil seals, rear main seal and rocker gasket.

 

[frankenyota]

Scraping off the sludge

And some black paint

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I have a 15B-T (not a 15B-FT) from a Megacruiser half-cut, and when I pulled the oil cooler, that chamber was absolutely full of crud - far worse than yours. I think it had been left in a military yard for years and years drained of coolant. On the B engines the coolant drain does not drain the chamber and as the lowest point of the cooling system (in the engine block), it can become a sump for crud and scale. I blew compressed air down the small hole at the water pump mounting face and found it was blocked - it should be in communication with the port at the front side of the oil cooler chamber. Might be worth checking yours. I had to knock out a small bore plug and rod out the coolant passageway to get it so that coolant would flow to the oil cooler again.

Depending on how deep you want to go into checking your engine - one weak point on these engines (and the only one that I know of on 8 valve versions) are camshaft bearings - they tend to de-laminate with age. I have a 1989 3BII with well over half a million kms where the bearings are falling apart. My 1994 15B-T, with only maybe 30k kms was already showing spots of delamination on the #1 camshaft bearing. They are cheap to buy genuine (and very cheap as OEM Taiho packs), so I am planning to change at least the #1 bearing. Luckily, the bearing de-lamination does not seem to damage the camshafts, but it will eventually lead to low oil pressure.

Looks like your drain cock rusted away at the port for the coolant line to the ACSD. I have chosen to keep my ACSD, but you can buy new drain cocks for both w/ and w/o ACSD.

 

[frankenyota]

I think l remember reading your build and that’s when l decided to pull the oil cooler and it’s also the best time to do it, coolant was still good on this engine and port was clear. I now regret not removing the HJ47 2H oil cooler while l had the injector pump out as it had a lot of scale in the cooling system.
The 15BF does have 300k on the clock thou, will definitely keep an eye on the oil pressure and if it’s low will go down the cam bearing path, thanks for the heads up. I have heard on a few 1HD motors that had the ACSD snap off into the pump and cause expensive problems, so that’s why it’s getting removed. Also l live in Qld and it never gets real cold here so won’t need it.
I bought this engine as l could test drive it vs one sitting in a wreckers or importer yard. I pulled the rocker cover and was very happy with how clean it is, now to revisit the multivalve adjustment for the 16 valve, as it’s been a few years

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I was initially thinking to ditch the ACSD but I think the problem with them breaking off is (i) massively overhyped on this forum where diesel knowledge is pretty limited and (ii) only applicable to a certain age range of 1HD engines (a bit like the BEB story, though totally unrelated of course). If you think that most diesels had these things from roughly the mid 1980s to the late 1990s, I think the knowledge of the problems they allegedly cause would be more widely reported.

But indeed, if you are never using it in cold environments and don't mind a slightly rougher and maybe smokier start, and there are no legal requirements to retain emissions equipment, fewer cooling system connections and moving parts is a good thing.

 

[mudgudgeon]

only applicable to a certain age range of 1HD engines

Toyota eliminated the ACSD at some point in the 1hd-## production cycle

My 2002 hzj105 did not have one.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Toyota eliminated the ACSD at some point in the 1hd-## production cycle

My 2002 hzj105 did not have one.

It was mostly market specific, from the outset. My General market 1989 3BII does not have one; a JDM or Euro-spec 3B of the same era would have one.

Once electronic timing advance came in, and EFI diesels, ACSDs were obsolete.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Once electronic timing advance came in, and EFI diesels, ACSDs were obsolete.

None of them on a 1HZ

 

[frankenyota]

The HJ47 cab l have had been stripped bare, but l scored a harness to suit from my bro’s spare parts. So l started to strip and inspect the harness and work out what has to be moved to suit the 15B. Looks like the starter and alternator are on opposite sides and all the glow system wiring can be deleted. Luckily l have a HJ47 here to reference where all the wiring goes. Will be running the factory gauges but also adding a JRP gauge set like Migaloo my 80 series has as l have been very happy with that set up. Here’s a few pics of the wiring mess. Also replacing the fuse box with a Narva blade fuse set up. Needed to add a third feed to match the HJ47 wiring, l did the same on my ute.

 

[frankenyota]

Fuse box all wired in with the three required feeds, constant power, accessories and Ignition. With extras fuse spots for accessories. Repaired some rat damaged wires and moved the ammeter power wires, taco, sedimenter wires to the LH side on the engine bay. Also found a wire to suit the injector pump solenoid power supply. Wanting to run the battery on the LH side like the BJ42 which also keeps the battery away from the turbo and manifold heat.
Found a start relay and a 60 series wiper control relay which is the same as the later 40 in my parts stash.
Most of the harness is in good condition with the engine bay wiring showing the most damage. I have a complete 60 series harness and a newer harness from a Corolla we wrecked so plenty of spare wiring.
Some rat damage below