Truggy Build

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I still say go with lh/rh combination. It it does loosen up you will know it. With rh/rh or lh/lh you will never realize they are loose. You can alway lock tight them once you get it dialed in or put a tack weld on it. It will make fine tuning it a lot easier as well.
 
matzell said:
I still say go with lh/rh combination. It it does loosen up you will know it. With rh/rh or lh/lh you will never realize they are loose. You can alway lock tight them once you get it dialed in or put a tack weld on it. It will make fine tuning it a lot easier as well.
Click to expand...

I agree with Rob run lh/rh set up. I only had one linke have a problem with my old setup, and once I lock tighted them and locked it down did not have a problem again. If you ever want to change something on it, it is a pita to remove the links and adjust.

Cam
 
RH/LH

Pros-
Easy to adjust on initial setup
Easy to adjust Pinion angle if needed

Cons-
If loosened on trail, adjustment can change, then require remeasuring to true it up.

RH/RH, LH/LH

Pros-
Only need one spare for the lowers that take the beating
Once all the "fine" tuning is done, its done and can't change on the trail.

Cons-
Harder to make adjustments.
 
Well, the links are RH/LH pairs. I decided that is what I wanted. Its not a question of a right or wrong way of doing it - really just personal preference.

So with the links welded up, it got flexed for the first time. Its a little deceiving, as the frame is still on jackstands at ride height, but the passenger tire is 21 inches off the ground. Any more, and the upper and lower links will bind. I'm not sure I will ever see this action in real life as I won't have this much travel with the shocks - looks cool though.

side.webp


rear.webp


ds.webp
 
looks good tim cant wait to come see it. Rocky get in the garage!!!!!!!!!!
 
Tim,

Does this mean the other side will drop 21" before it binds? Or is that the total flex without binding? Either way it looks good and way too clean. I guess I need to hurry up and finish with the bender, it looks like you are about ready for it.
 
Looks good Bud. Cant believe you painted the axle before shock mounts. You must be slipping in your old age.
 
smtyblt said:
Looks good Bud. Cant believe you painted the axle before shock mounts. You must be slipping in your old age.
Click to expand...

I remembered. A minor rework is planned once I get the shocks sorted out.
 
matzell said:
Tim,

Does this mean the other side will drop 21" before it binds? Or is that the total flex without binding? Either way it looks good and way too clean. I guess I need to hurry up and finish with the bender, it looks like you are about ready for it.
Click to expand...

Vince and I discussed this at length. Its a bit hard to explain. With the weight of the truck on the jackstands at ride height, it binds when the tire is raised 21". Given the axle width of 67" and recalling a bit from HS geometry, tan (x) = opposite/adjacent = 21/67 = .32 therefore x is about 18 degrees (we used to look this up in tables - now the interweb tells us). x is how much the axle is twisted in relation to the frame. It can't twist anymore than that before it binds. Lowering the other tire will just increase this angle.

However, keep in mind the frame is still level and at ride height. Once I have springs on it, the frame will eventually raise too, meaning the tire can lift who knows how much before the front tire lifts (think RTI ramp score) or the CG falls outside of the tires and it takes a nap like this:
562153_403502486335574_100000274773020_1481435_2093145922_n.jpg
(sorry Dwight...I'm sure my day is coming)

I'm thrilled with the action thus far. I think I can have totally unreasonable amounts of travel w/o suspension link, drive shaft, or roll steer issues. I was only planning on a 14" travel shock...that may need to increase. Once the shocks and limit straps are in place I'll have a better idea on what it will act like.
 
I hope so tim i am tired of being able to change tires without a jack lol
 
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