TriMeki 2F/F Stainless Steel Header & Exhaust System
- Thread starter Fe3
- Start date
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Fe3
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- Thread starter
- #23
FYI that we are temporarily out of our stainless steel exhaust systems for the 40-series Cruiser.
The exhaust and Whole Enchilada options on our store page have been changed to show "Back Order" status.
We anticipate getting more systems in about a month - hopefully in time for Cruise Moab.
So if you have a tax return check burning a hole in your pocket, pre-order now and will fulfill all orders in the order received.
The exhaust and Whole Enchilada options on our store page have been changed to show "Back Order" status.
We anticipate getting more systems in about a month - hopefully in time for Cruise Moab.
So if you have a tax return check burning a hole in your pocket, pre-order now and will fulfill all orders in the order received.
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Finally found some time to get the “whole enchilada” installed.
The good:
- Quality - top notch materials and workmanship
- Definitely more acceleration when matched up with my @FJ60Cam Mosley motor. Didn’t notice much difference in lower gears, but in 4th gear going from around 40mph to 60+mph she gets up and moves.. but this is still a 2F and should not be confused with some 300hp rocket.
- Sounds great, especially at idle…. She just rumbles.
- Installation went fairly smoothly.
- I had the entire header, exhaust & muffler ceramic coated (cerekote) which is not recommended (not sure why), but they looked soooo much better after the had been coated/cured. Set me back some $$, so I hope it lasts.
The not so good:
- I have a mini-truck power steering system installed. The header flanges would not lay flat against the head because the outside header pipe was hitting up against the power steering box. I ended up taking a large ball peen hammer and denting/flattening that area of the pipe about 3/8” to give it enough room for the bottom of the header to move towards the frame to allow the flange to lay flat. It about killed me swinging away with the hammer and destroying the ceramic coating in that area, but it eventually solved the issue.
- I had a difficult time getting the ball flange joint between the header and exhaust pipe to seal. I ended up putting a coat of Permetex muffler/tailpipe sealant along the sealing edges of the ball prior to installation/clamping and eventually got it to seal 95% of the original leak. But Sniper EFI’s are so sensitive to any air leaks that at some point I’m going to have to take the joint apart again and apparently add even a thicker layer of sealant to get a 100% seal.
- The rear tail pipe bends out only about 2-1/2” behind the drivers-side tire. I am running larger 33x10.5 BFG tires, but another inch or two of gap would have been good, especially since I added an exhaust tip.
Overall, I’m happy with how it worked out and it’s so nice not messing with the original exhaust manifold that continually kept leaking at the flange to the exhaust downpipe to the point the Sniper would not even allow the motor to idle. She just clips right along at 70mph on the interstate now!
The good:
- Quality - top notch materials and workmanship
- Definitely more acceleration when matched up with my @FJ60Cam Mosley motor. Didn’t notice much difference in lower gears, but in 4th gear going from around 40mph to 60+mph she gets up and moves.. but this is still a 2F and should not be confused with some 300hp rocket.
- Sounds great, especially at idle…. She just rumbles.
- Installation went fairly smoothly.
- I had the entire header, exhaust & muffler ceramic coated (cerekote) which is not recommended (not sure why), but they looked soooo much better after the had been coated/cured. Set me back some $$, so I hope it lasts.
The not so good:
- I have a mini-truck power steering system installed. The header flanges would not lay flat against the head because the outside header pipe was hitting up against the power steering box. I ended up taking a large ball peen hammer and denting/flattening that area of the pipe about 3/8” to give it enough room for the bottom of the header to move towards the frame to allow the flange to lay flat. It about killed me swinging away with the hammer and destroying the ceramic coating in that area, but it eventually solved the issue.
- I had a difficult time getting the ball flange joint between the header and exhaust pipe to seal. I ended up putting a coat of Permetex muffler/tailpipe sealant along the sealing edges of the ball prior to installation/clamping and eventually got it to seal 95% of the original leak. But Sniper EFI’s are so sensitive to any air leaks that at some point I’m going to have to take the joint apart again and apparently add even a thicker layer of sealant to get a 100% seal.
- The rear tail pipe bends out only about 2-1/2” behind the drivers-side tire. I am running larger 33x10.5 BFG tires, but another inch or two of gap would have been good, especially since I added an exhaust tip.
Overall, I’m happy with how it worked out and it’s so nice not messing with the original exhaust manifold that continually kept leaking at the flange to the exhaust downpipe to the point the Sniper would not even allow the motor to idle. She just clips right along at 70mph on the interstate now!