TriMeki 2F/F Stainless Steel Header & Exhaust System

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FYI that we are temporarily out of our stainless steel exhaust systems for the 40-series Cruiser.

The exhaust and Whole Enchilada options on our store page have been changed to show "Back Order" status.

We anticipate getting more systems in about a month - hopefully in time for Cruise Moab.

So if you have a tax return check burning a hole in your pocket, pre-order now and will fulfill all orders in the order received.
 
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Finally found some time to get the “whole enchilada” installed.

The good:
- Quality - top notch materials and workmanship
- Definitely more acceleration when matched up with my @FJ60Cam Mosley motor. Didn’t notice much difference in lower gears, but in 4th gear going from around 40mph to 60+mph she gets up and moves.. but this is still a 2F and should not be confused with some 300hp rocket.
- Sounds great, especially at idle…. She just rumbles.
- Installation went fairly smoothly.
- I had the entire header, exhaust & muffler ceramic coated (cerekote) which is not recommended (not sure why), but they looked soooo much better after the had been coated/cured. Set me back some $$, so I hope it lasts.

The not so good:
- I have a mini-truck power steering system installed. The header flanges would not lay flat against the head because the outside header pipe was hitting up against the power steering box. I ended up taking a large ball peen hammer and denting/flattening that area of the pipe about 3/8” to give it enough room for the bottom of the header to move towards the frame to allow the flange to lay flat. It about killed me swinging away with the hammer and destroying the ceramic coating in that area, but it eventually solved the issue.
- I had a difficult time getting the ball flange joint between the header and exhaust pipe to seal. I ended up putting a coat of Permetex muffler/tailpipe sealant along the sealing edges of the ball prior to installation/clamping and eventually got it to seal 95% of the original leak. But Sniper EFI’s are so sensitive to any air leaks that at some point I’m going to have to take the joint apart again and apparently add even a thicker layer of sealant to get a 100% seal.
- The rear tail pipe bends out only about 2-1/2” behind the drivers-side tire. I am running larger 33x10.5 BFG tires, but another inch or two of gap would have been good, especially since I added an exhaust tip.

Overall, I’m happy with how it worked out and it’s so nice not messing with the original exhaust manifold that continually kept leaking at the flange to the exhaust downpipe to the point the Sniper would not even allow the motor to idle. She just clips right along at 70mph on the interstate now!

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Finally found some time to get the “whole enchilada” installed.

The good:
- Quality - top notch materials and workmanship
- Definitely more acceleration when matched up with my @FJ60Cam Mosley motor. Didn’t notice much difference in lower gears, but in 4th gear going from around 40mph to 60+mph she gets up and moves.. but this is still a 2F and should not be confused with some 300hp rocket.
- Sounds great, especially at idle…. She just rumbles.
- Installation went fairly smoothly.
- I had the entire header, exhaust & muffler ceramic coated (cerekote) which is not recommended (not sure why), but they looked soooo much better after the had been coated/cured. Set me back some $$, so I hope it lasts.

The not so good:
- I have a mini-truck power steering system installed. The header flanges would not lay flat against the head because the outside header pipe was hitting up against the power steering box. I ended up taking a large ball peen hammer and denting/flattening that area of the pipe about 3/8” to give it enough room for the bottom of the header to move towards the frame to allow the flange to lay flat. It about killed me swinging away with the hammer and destroying the ceramic coating in that area, but it eventually solved the issue.
- I had a difficult time getting the ball flange joint between the header and exhaust pipe to seal. I ended up putting a coat of Permetex muffler/tailpipe sealant along the sealing edges of the ball prior to installation/clamping and eventually got it to seal 95% of the original leak. But Sniper EFI’s are so sensitive to any air leaks that at some point I’m going to have to take the joint apart again and apparently add even a thicker layer of sealant to get a 100% seal.
- The rear tail pipe bends out only about 2-1/2” behind the drivers-side tire. I am running larger 33x10.5 BFG tires, but another inch or two of gap would have been good, especially since I added an exhaust tip.

Overall, I’m happy with how it worked out and it’s so nice not messing with the original exhaust manifold that continually kept leaking at the flange to the exhaust downpipe to the point the Sniper would not even allow the motor to idle. She just clips right along at 70mph on the interstate now!

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Thank you for the review @Trigger6 - we appreciate you taking the time to put your observations into words so others can benefit from your experience.

In order:
  • This header and exhaust should be a great compliment to a performance built 2F such as the Mosley/ @FJ60Cam engines. The 6-2-1 design enhances mid-range performance nicely.
  • A note on the ceramic coating process, we do recommend this process, see info under the Installation Warnings tab.
  • Mini-truck power steering - this is helpful information, thank you. We designed this header to provide excellent fitment with the stock manual steering box. Most of the power steering options move the steering box out to the front cross member. We can add a note to the Fitment tab regarding the mini-truck power steering option.
  • Fitment at the articulated joint - did it look like there was any deformation at the flanges when you received your shipment? It is a good practice to place the "donut" in the flange and confirm fitment by placing a scrap of 2x4 on the other end of the donut and giving the 2x4 several firm taps with a hammer. One thing we can do is ship the header with the donut and clamp in place at the header collector. Thank you for letting us know!
We hope you enjoy your new header and exhaust. It sounds like the added power and the sound made it all worth it.

Thank you for choosing TriMeki for your Land Cruiser upgrades!
 
Thank you for the review @Trigger6 - we appreciate you taking the time to put your observations into words so others can benefit from your experience.

In order:
  • This header and exhaust should be a great compliment to a performance built 2F such as the Mosley/ @FJ60Cam engines. The 6-2-1 design enhances mid-range performance nicely.
  • A note on the ceramic coating process, we do recommend this process, see info under the Installation Warnings tab.
  • Mini-truck power steering - this is helpful information, thank you. We designed this header to provide excellent fitment with the stock manual steering box. Most of the power steering options move the steering box out to the front cross member. We can add a note to the Fitment tab regarding the mini-truck power steering option.
  • Fitment at the articulated joint - did it look like there was any deformation at the flanges when you received your shipment? It is a good practice to place the "donut" in the flange and confirm fitment by placing a scrap of 2x4 on the other end of the donut and giving the 2x4 several firm taps with a hammer. One thing we can do is ship the header with the donut and clamp in place at the header collector. Thank you for letting us know!
We hope you enjoy your new header and exhaust. It sounds like the added power and the sound made it all worth it.

Thank you for choosing TriMeki for your Land Cruiser upgrades!
i did not notice any sizeable (>1/32”) deformation of the ball joint on either end of the fitting (header or exhaust). I like the tap on the 2x4 idea and will give that a try. I’ve also order a sheet of 1/16” graphite gasket material that i plan to wrap the donut prior to installation.

Still liking it so far, just need to get that joint sealed.
 
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i did not notice any sizeable (>1/32”) deformation of the ball joint on either end of the fitting (header or exhaust). I like the tap on the 2x4 idea and will give that a try. I’ve also order a sheet of 1/16” graphite gasket material that i plan to wrap the donut prior to installation.

Still liking it so far, just need to get that joint sealed.
In follow-up, I disassemble the ball joint to inspect with the hope of getting it to completely seal. Visually and by touch without the ball installed both the front and rear flanges looked uniform and felt smooth with no burrs (my thought is there might be a bit of weld splatter keeping it from sealing). However, when I loosely installed the ball sleeve back into each end of the joint, with close inspection there was a visibly noticable ~1/32” gap about 1/3rd of the way around the rear flange on the exhaust pipe. I ran out of time, but plan to give it the “2x4 treatment” to see if that can round out that section of the flange to put it back to original and hopefully seal. Not sure how that got a bit deformed, but I’m all over it now.
 
I’ll be interested to hear what you find out as to how this may have occurred. I am planning on setting this system up replacing my existing headers. I love the exhaust routing
 
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In follow-up, I disassemble the ball joint to inspect with the hope of getting it to completely seal. Visually and by touch without the ball installed both the front and rear flanges looked uniform and felt smooth with no burrs (my thought is there might be a bit of weld splatter keeping it from sealing). However, when I loosely installed the ball sleeve back into each end of the joint, with close inspection there was a visibly noticable ~1/32” gap about 1/3rd of the way around the rear flange on the exhaust pipe. I ran out of time, but plan to give it the “2x4 treatment” to see if that can round out that section of the flange to put it back to original and hopefully seal. Not sure how that got a bit deformed, but I’m all over it now.
Thank you for the follow up!
We hope the 2x4 method for seating the donut in the exhaust section will restore a uniform fit.
 
Great news - we now have our 2.5" stainless steel exhaust systems for the 1969-1978 40-series back in stock!

As always, these are designed and manufactured in the United States of America.

Order here:

Exhaust System

Whole Enchilada (Header + Exhaust)
 
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