Need to replace the floor in my Canadian M100. Haven't ruled out the $500 replacement part but it's pretty pricy. Doesn't have to look original but must be strong and look good. Appreciate your recommendations. And, any "how to" suggestions.
trailer floor suggestions? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PatrickJohn
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How about some of the newer composite deckings that don't rot...maybe something in a tongue and groove?
Light gauge steel diamond plate.
I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood on my utility trailer. I used 2x6 pressure treated boards once, like the car haulers use, but too hard to keep them nice. The plywood is light, cheap and easy to replace.
I have to admit, I never thought of cutting the bed from a pick up truck. I'm going to look into that, That is cheap, light and easy to replace too, and I bet will last a lot longer than plywood in this northern rain forest up here - the land of moss and rot!
I have to admit, I never thought of cutting the bed from a pick up truck. I'm going to look into that, That is cheap, light and easy to replace too, and I bet will last a lot longer than plywood in this northern rain forest up here - the land of moss and rot!
x2 on plywood
I have to do the same thing to mine eventually. I plan to cut the old floor out but save about an inch of it around the edge than drop in a one piece sheet of 12g. Weld it up every few inches than seal everything up with 3m automotive seam sealant. Then get a couple of metal drains like they have in old sinks from Lowes or Home depot, weld those in then paint it up. Kind of like this.
Good idea on the drains. I've been thinking about what I will do for a floor in my utility trailer. It will either be diamond plate or this Rumber (rubber lumber) product I found. I've pretty much ruled out wood unless it's a temporary solution, I only want to put a floor in one time.
Hi, The treated plywoods are very good mine has been in for over 15 years and it's light and doesn't need paint. Mike
I replaced the plywood floor on my trailer with cold rolled steel plate about 15 years ago. Painted it with Killrust and it has stood up well, but it is a hell of a lot heavier than the ply. Really like the idea of using a pickup truck floor - wish I had thought of that at the time.
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ntsqd
technerd
From having done such drains in a Heep tub once, make them big, say 2" NPT or bigger, and plug them with PVC pipe plugs so that they don't rust into place.
climber8483
SILVER Star
Or steel with Never-Sneeze. Shouldn't have to worry about it breaking either.
B
B
I'd just weld an appropriate size washer to the floor at the drain plug locations, then drill through, weld to seal around, then get the lever-type rubber plugs that are meant for it. I know some places want $24/each for them (the same place that wants $495 for a repro US M100 floor -- maybe they're special ???) However, I found them cheap (like $4/each?) when I needed them for our CDN M101, at an industrial parts house (Grainger? been awhile). Once the lever is down, it's a very low profile -- and you're officially amphibious.
Pics here: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=74492
I think it's the 1/2" size, which they want ~$8 for, which is still a little pricey.
Pics here: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=74492
I think it's the 1/2" size, which they want ~$8 for, which is still a little pricey.
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ntsqd
technerd
That's never been a long term solution for me. Here in this coastal desert the marine atmosphere will wait for the never-seize to dissipate, and it will eventually, and then it will go to work on rusting the steel together.
Greentruck's boat hull plug looks like a good option too.
