Trail Rig Candidate? (1 Viewer)

[Ranski]

OK...ran across this 4Runner. Guy says there are no known problems beyond the blown brake connection.

Stock 1985 4runner Cheap **Last year w/ EFI and Solid Axles both

I have a 22re with a blow brake connection at the rear "T" otherwise driveable 4runner. 22re, Auto, 4x4. has rust around wheel wells. 4x4 works great, trany is good as with transfer case and diffs. No leaks in motor or trany. Motor just needs to have timing adjusted (my timing gun broke on me) Located in Illinois about 2.5hours west of chicago on the Mississippi. 185,000 Miles.​

You guys with experience buying vehicles out of state, can you offer advice and suggested questions I need to ask. He is asking $450 for it. Does it appear to be a candidate for a trail-only rig? OR is it a POS?

 

[trainrech]

The front axle alone is probably worth $200 or better. Bring it to Emporia this fall - I'm planning to cut up two of 'em.

 

[Ranski]

I'm planning to cut up two of 'em.

What do you have planned?


I emailed the guy about the head gasket and he claims it was replaced at 170K.

 

[trainrech]

I have one rolled with a supposedly good 22R and one with a bad 20R but decent body. I'm planning to swap engines, part out the rolled one, and then start removing body panels off of the other with the ultimate goal of a beater tube buggy.

 

[Bob_Garrett]

Only thing that might keep it from being a good trail rig would be frame rust. If it has spent much of its life around Chicago, that's a real possibility. The blown brake line at the rear T could be that the crossmember that the proportioning valve is attached to has rusted through, allowing the valve to come loose.

As Chris said the front axle is worth a couple hundred, T-case (assuming its in decent shape) should bring $75-100, and the motor would bring $200-400 depending on condition.

Bottom line is, if you can get it for $400 or less, you should be ok, regardless of whether you build it up or part it out. You need to think about the cost to get it back to KC, since I wouldn't count on it being easy to make it driveable.

Bob

BTW, if you do buy it to part out, put me 1st in line for the motor, ECU and associated wiring

 

[Ranski]

Thanks for the input fellas. I did ask him about the frame and his reply was.

"The frame is in good shape. It has been zebarred to help keep the rust down"​

So is this a good thing or a bad thing...

I'll probably ask that he send me some pics of the frame in the location you mentioned, Bob.

As for gettting it back to KC...I have a freind with a trailer that would be willing to run up ther and get it with me.

 

[Bob_Garrett]

""The frame is in good shape. It has been zebarred to help keep the rust down"

So is this a good thing or a bad thing..."

If it was done properly, it may have at least slowed down the frame rust. My 83 had rustproofing done on it when it was new. I don't think it helped the body much, but the frame seems to be in better condition than most I have seen of the same age that have been in corrosive environments.

Bob

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Get it! Wheel it! Have fun and have no regard for body damage!
My advice? Take the top off and sell it to pay for the whole thing..
That would be one of the cheapest trailrigs in the club.. And besides.. If it sucks, it's a front axle and doubler donor for your existing vehicle!

 

[Ranski]

OK...I'm priming the financial pump (aka wife). Stay tuned...

 

[macneill]

The stickers alone are worth $450.

 

[Bob_Garrett]

Could be what's holding it together

 

[Ranski]

Here are some add'l pics he took of the frame and front axle.

Seeing anything I should be concerned about yet?

I going to have him take pics of cross member connections to frame rails.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

as for your original question, buying out of state isn't an issue, getting a title without it running is harder, I've done both many times. Just make sure you have what your DMV needs when your done.. Bill of sale or notorized title, etc..

 

[Bob_Garrett]

I should konw this, but I'm having a senior moment. KS or MO? If KS, all you should need is a signed title, but I'd get a notarized bill of sale to prove what you paid (for calculation of sales tax). You'll also need to get a VIN inspection from the Highway Patrol. All they do is check to make sure its not stolen. I think you could probably haul it there on a trailer for that. Might want to check first, tho, because you can't get a title without the VIN verification.

In the last picture, there is an area just to the right of the crossmember and another on the left near the body mount. Not sure if thats just some of Ziebart stuff or if its rust perforation. Post up the other pics when you get them. Maybe they will help to clarify the issue.

 

[johnnybravo300]

450 bucks????

how could it NOT be worth that much if its all there....???

if you dont buy it let me know ehehehe.

 

[Ranski]

Hypothetical

Let's say the frame is toast. The post over on pirate concerning frame rust have me alittle freaked out

Will it be hard to locate a new one and what will it run me?

I have one rolled with a supposedly good 22R and one with a bad 20R but decent body. I'm planning to swap engines, part out the rolled one, and then start removing body panels off of the other with the ultimate goal of a beater tube buggy.

Chris...any chance one of your frames would work?

Starting to get a little excited by the possibilites

Caroline seems to be going along with it...and I'm starting to look at my calendar to figure out when I could actually go get it.

 

[trainrech]

Unfortunately, I only have one good frame. The other took a 3 or better roll down a country road.

 

[Bob_Garrett]

Let's say the frame is toast. The post over on pirate concerning frame rust have me alittle freaked out

Will it be hard to locate a new one and what will it run me?

Locating another frame would likely require a trip south as any that have spent their lives in this area may not be in any better shape.

That truck is worth $300-400 as a parts rig. I wouldn't buy it if I sole intent was to wheel it for the following reasons.

1. Unknown frame condition - The ziebart may have helped or it may be covering it up. No way to know without inspecting it first.

2. Auto trans - I don't have any experience with early Toyota automatics. It wouldn't be my first choice for a trail rig tho. Of course, you could swap in a manual, but that would take time and money.

3. Engine condition - The statement regarding not timing the engine because "my timing light broke" makes me a little nervous. Does he mean it doesn't run? Timing shouldn't be off that far unless there's another problem. Also, if he can't afford a timing light, he probably couldn't afford to do any PM stuff on the rig either.

My .02 worth.

Bob

 

[trainrech]

I know absolutely squat about timing, but you can get it pretty close just by listening, so I'd have to concur with Bob's assessment.

 

[Ranski]

Well the guy power washed the frame and took a few more pics, alot of what you see above on the frame is dirt. I didn't post the new pics cuz they really don't offer any more of a definitive answer as to the frame condition.

He stated after looking at the frame closely, it is all surface rust. Now it is up to me if I believe him or not.

He also did a sound recording of the engine running, which I would have attached, but it won't accept ".mov" extensions.

2. Auto trans - I don't have any experience with early Toyota automatics. It wouldn't be my first choice for a trail rig tho. Of course, you could swap in a manual, but that would take time and money

As for a tranny swap, is this a fairly straight foward thing to do or does it require some fancy fabrication and a lot of technical expertise.

I'll probably be calling Marlin tomorrow to pick their brain on the tranny swap and what they offer for Auto's