Traction bar (1 Viewer)
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rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Mine broke, then the rear differential broke.
So I'd say a really strong traction, AKA anti wrap, bar is a good thing.
Its very good insurance if it is NOT necessary on your rig.
The reason I say that is because SOME folks get away without em.
Calicruiser (Dylan) doesnt run one, but he also has chevy springs.
Mine hopped like a mofo when trying to crawl over a boulder when testing, so I built one.
What kind of rig do you have?
Is it sprung over?
K
The reason I say that is because SOME folks get away without em.
Calicruiser (Dylan) doesnt run one, but he also has chevy springs.
Mine hopped like a mofo when trying to crawl over a boulder when testing, so I built one.
What kind of rig do you have?
Is it sprung over?
K
I'm no expert, but all I've read points toward the type that mounts to the axle with heims or some sort of adjustable/semi rigid mount to the axle. More toward the center is best. The front mount needs to be a shackle type mount that will allow forward and rearward movement, but not up and down. A little side to side is o.k. but should be limited.
There are several good shops around Reno/Carson and they can steer you in the right direction.
Dr. Smash in Carson, or Samco in Reno are both shops I've heard good things about.
The bad thing about traction bars is that you will find more challenging things to do, then you will find out that you can hammer down on things you used to baby it up. Then all of a sudden you have broken parts in new places, rather than just the u-joints...
There are several good shops around Reno/Carson and they can steer you in the right direction.
Dr. Smash in Carson, or Samco in Reno are both shops I've heard good things about.
The bad thing about traction bars is that you will find more challenging things to do, then you will find out that you can hammer down on things you used to baby it up. Then all of a sudden you have broken parts in new places, rather than just the u-joints...
I used a heim joint in the front at the shackle.
There really is no "downside" to running a traction bar.
You can even build it so it protects your shaft to some degree.
The hardest part about building it finding a good place to run your x member. The rest is getting the lil nuts and bolts together and measuring, cutting and welding.
Do you weld?
What kind of rig do you have?
I might be able to help you out, but I work VERY slow...just ask RustyTLC!
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com has very nice wrap bar brackets that do not cost all that much. You can get a heim joint and weld in bung at Summit, get 3 leaf spring bushings and tubing that will fit them and a few bolts...Not much to em, but like I said...finding the best spot to run the x memeber is THORN depending on what type of rig.
Here's a pic of mine I built!
There really is no "downside" to running a traction bar.
You can even build it so it protects your shaft to some degree.
The hardest part about building it finding a good place to run your x member. The rest is getting the lil nuts and bolts together and measuring, cutting and welding.
Do you weld?
What kind of rig do you have?
I might be able to help you out, but I work VERY slow...just ask RustyTLC!
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com has very nice wrap bar brackets that do not cost all that much. You can get a heim joint and weld in bung at Summit, get 3 leaf spring bushings and tubing that will fit them and a few bolts...Not much to em, but like I said...finding the best spot to run the x memeber is THORN depending on what type of rig.
Here's a pic of mine I built!
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With my design there, the one thing that I would change is the lower tube...Id have run it all the way to the END of the top tube just shy of the weld in bung at the heim...After seeing how RustyTLC's broke, I could concievebly have the same issue on my hands. However, RustyTLC's builder didnt use strongest material IMO either. These things see a LOT of stress. I used 1/4 in wall tube and I think his was 3/16. His had broken before at the weld, and him and I welded it back up once prior to the final disaster. Square tube would work too, and it might be easier to cut angles.
HTH,
Chicago
HTH,
Chicago
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
For what it's worth the general rules of thumb I came up with when researching on Mud and Pirate were:
I didn't pay enough attention to the last item.
The torque tube that runs behind the parking brake on the FJ40 is a tempting place to mount the frame side of the bar. If you chose to mount it there I would recommend replacing the tube with heavier material. If you cut the tube out and take it to a fabricator they should be able to bend up a replacement for under $50.
Chicago does work slow. But he pays a lot of attention to detail and the end result is worth it. I've never had anything he did break and his welds look good too.
- Try to keep the bar as close to the center line of the rig as possible.
- Try to keep the angle of the bar close to the angle of the drive line in it's static position.
- The plates that weld to the rear housing should be done with a 220V welder to insure good penetration.
- Build it two or three times stronger than you think it needs to be.
I didn't pay enough attention to the last item.
The torque tube that runs behind the parking brake on the FJ40 is a tempting place to mount the frame side of the bar. If you chose to mount it there I would recommend replacing the tube with heavier material. If you cut the tube out and take it to a fabricator they should be able to bend up a replacement for under $50.
Chicago does work slow. But he pays a lot of attention to detail and the end result is worth it. I've never had anything he did break and his welds look good too.
For what it's worth the general rules of thumb I came up with when researching on Mud and Pirate were:
I didn't pay enough attention to the last item.
- Try to keep the bar as close to the center line of the rig as possible.
- Try to keep the angle of the bar close to the angle of the drive line in it's static position.
- The plates that weld to the rear housing should be done with a 220V welder to insure good penetration.
- Build it two or three times stronger than you think it needs to be.
The torque tube that runs behind the parking brake on the FJ40 is a tempting place to mount the frame side of the bar. If you chose to mount it there I would recommend replacing the tube with heavier material. If you cut the tube out and take it to a fabricator they should be able to bend up a replacement for under $50.
Chicago does work slow. But he pays a lot of attention to detail and the end result is worth it. I've never had anything he did break and his welds look good too.
Thanks Dan!
Makin me weepy over here!
K