total Noob- need advice on exhaust/ shifting noise (5 Viewers)

[Cody O Riellerson]

Hello Cruiserheads,
I'm a total noob, bought my first cruiser, an '85 BJ70 a few weeks ago. Before I bought the toy i spoke to the mechanic who has been working on it for the last 5 years. He told me there was nothign that needed immediate attention. In the list of maintenance reciepts there are invoices for the replacement of the exhaust and muffler a few years back. I looked closely and could not ind a hole anywhere along the exhaust or muffler. Ok, that is the background, here is the issue:

When it's runningthere is a noise overtop of the diesel growl, kindof like a high pitch tinney rattling that sounds like it is coming from close to the engine, possibly the driverside; When I am shifting UP, so when the RPM's are climbing, as soon as I put in the clutch, there is a deep growl from the back and the exhaust spits out a puff of bluish smoke, then returns to running clean. When I am shifting down, there is little or no growl, and no smoke. I am competent at following instructions, but not experienced, so if you have an idea what the issue is, please give me some instructions on how to go about determining if your theory is right. I appreciative the advice, and thank you all in advance.

Cheers

 

[UpsideDown]

If you want to test for an exhaust leak, block the tail pipe while the engine is running and see if you have good exhaust pressure (a bundle of dry cloth - like some old tee-shirts - would work). If there is a leak, it should be apparent. It would be helpful if you had a helper to block the tail pipe while you look for the leak.

Be a little mindful that the exhaust could be hot.

The deep growl could be an exhaust leak. The rattle is probably something else, but could be a loose clamp or fitting. Toyota exhausts are usually mounted quite well, and any looseness in the system should become apparent if you push/pull/wiggle the exhaust system.

A little smoke is not much to worry about, a lot of smoke might be worth looking into.

Location helps too, and "driver's side" could be either side...

~John

 

[roscoFJ73]

Hello Cruiserheads,
I'm a total noob, bought my first cruiser, an '85 BJ70 a few weeks ago. Before I bought the toy i spoke to the mechanic who has been working on it for the last 5 years. He told me there was nothign that needed immediate attention. In the list of maintenance reciepts there are invoices for the replacement of the exhaust and muffler a few years back. I looked closely and could not ind a hole anywhere along the exhaust or muffler. Ok, that is the background, here is the issue:

When it's runningthere is a noise overtop of the diesel growl, kindof like a high pitch tinney rattling that sounds like it is coming from close to the engine, possibly the driverside; When I am shifting UP, so when the RPM's are climbing, as soon as I put in the clutch, there is a deep growl from the back and the exhaust spits out a puff of bluish smoke, then returns to running clean. When I am shifting down, there is little or no growl, and no smoke. I am competent at following instructions, but not experienced, so if you have an idea what the issue is, please give me some instructions on how to go about determining if your theory is right. I appreciative the advice, and thank you all in advance.

Cheers

How many klms has it done?
Have you asked the mechanic about these noises?
I don't know the circumstances of how you came to acquire the car,but sometimes you have to be wary of the previous owners mechanic telling the full story.
If he has been dealing with a customer for 5 years,he is not about to sour the relationship by telling you it has serious faults.
I maybe wrong ,but you have to keep an open mind.


Put the transfer case in neutral and see if you can replicate the noises when you up shift through the gears

 

[Cody O Riellerson]

Thanks for the suggestions, I will try both and get back to you. Its an LHD 85 BJ70. It has almost 390,000 Km. The engine runs very well. The maintenance from the last owner was very regular, at least he had receipts that convinced me of that. Regarding the blue smoke, I took it out on the highway and had a good look at how it behaves at higher speeds and gears. Going from 4th into 5th, it doesn't smoke. When I'm slowing down in fourth or third (engine braking) it also smokes, and it smokes the most in third. Is the engine burning oil? Is it a transmission issue? I'd like to take all the pain up front and get the vehicle ready for snowboard and camping trips.
Rosco, what you say about the mechanic may be very true. Can anyone suggest an honest and reliable toyota mechanic in Victoria BC?

 

[Jimmy B]

Can anyone suggest an honest and reliable toyota mechanic in Victoria BC?

Close to you in Duncan..

Customization and Restoration Professionals - Services For Restoring 4x4s - RADD Cruisers, Duncan BC

 

[roscoFJ73]

Thanks for the suggestions, I will try both and get back to you. Its an LHD 85 BJ70. It has almost 390,000 Km. The engine runs very well. The maintenance from the last owner was very regular, at least he had receipts that convinced me of that. Regarding the blue smoke, I took it out on the highway and had a good look at how it behaves at higher speeds and gears. Going from 4th into 5th, it doesn't smoke. When I'm slowing down in fourth or third (engine braking) it also smokes, and it smokes the most in third. Is the engine burning oil? Is it a transmission issue? I'd like to take all the pain up front and get the vehicle ready for snowboard and camping trips.
Rosco, what you say about the mechanic may be very true. Can anyone suggest an honest and reliable toyota mechanic in Victoria BC?

These engines do high klms before they are done. A little blue smoke at 390000 is probably normal. Its really nothing to do with which gear your in,more to do with rpm and load on the engine.
Find a good mechanic and get him to do a compression test. Blue smoke is the engine burning oil. It will be either from leaky valve guide seals or wear in the oil rings.
Usually bad valve guide seals are characterised by excessive smoke after idling for a while.The oil leaks onto the piston and when you take off you get a puff of blue smoke that goes away(depending on how bad it is)

Ive come across mechanics trying to sell cars for their customers and didnt like what I saw.
If they are dishonest about the condition of the car,then it may throw the service records into question as well.

Stick with it,tell us what you find.

 

[Cody O Riellerson]

So I took the group's advice and took the truck to Radd Cruisers. He replaced the diaphragm, and glow plugs (apparently the last mechanic had put in the kind for the push-in warm-up, not the timed warm-up) and now she starts without even a puff, white or black, no smoke on shift, excel or downshift. Since no one mentioned this as a possibility, maybe I was describing the problem poorly?

Only thing is the idle is very very low now, about 350, whereas it used to be about 600 with the choke out. It has one of those screw-in chokes (so for me, screw-in, is pull out) so I can keep the choke in just a tiny bit to keep her idling at about 500. I'd really like it if someone could tell me how to adjust the idle up a bit so I don't have to have the choke out. The tinny rattling from the front is gone, but there is still quite a roar going from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to third.... strangely when I'm on the highway and shift from 3rd to 4th and then up to 5th there is no roar.

I also had Radd Cruisers put on an OME kit, front and back. My springs were so flat the old beast now sits about 5 inches higher on what is supposed to be a 2" lift over stock height! This has sorted out some of the yoke angles and generally improved the handling. Took her up some STEEP washed-out logging roads the other weekend....I love these trucks!

 

[jericho]

Good to hear your up and running! From what I read, Radd Cruisers knows their stuff! No choke on a diesel. Thats a hand throttle. These engines are mechanical and the idle is set at normal operating temp. When its cold, the engine needs more fuel(turn the throttle) to get a good idle. When the engine warms up it should smooth out. Does the idle increase when it warmed up?

 

[Cody O Riellerson]

Haha, can ya tell I'm a noob!? Yes it does come up a few when it is warm, but is still a little below the 500 rpm mark, which is where it seems to produce the least shudder.

Although maybe I'm just paranoid. Before the diaphragm was replaced it would idles at 60 and then at nearly 1000 when it was warm...

 

[Radd Cruisers]

When the diaphragm is bad, the idle often goes up several hundred RPM. Those who are not in the know about the diaphragm usually turn the idle way down to compensate the increasing idle RPM.

All you need to do is adjust the idle screw on the back of the "throttle body" until your idle is back to where it should be - about 650 RPM.

If you're in the neighborhood, then we can do that for your at no charge.

Oh, and I think you got about 4" of lift out the deal... it sure made a HUGE difference to your BJ70.

~John

 

[Eric Winkworth]

a classic sigh of a bad diaphram is a truck that won't idle down... As the diaphram leaks the idle continues to rise slightly...

Radd put a new one in which is probably why your idle is low... If someone adjusted the idle down to compensate for a leaking diaphram...

 

[roscoFJ73]

Only thing is the idle is very very low now, about 350, whereas it used to be about 600 with the choke out. It has one of those screw-in chokes (so for me, screw-in, is pull out) so I can keep the choke in just a tiny bit to keep her idling at about 500. I'd really like it if someone could tell me how to adjust the idle up a bit so I don't have to have the choke out. s!

The fast idle knob does not need to be turned screwed right in for normal use,just set it to where you want it. Mine can be adjusted from 500-1200+.
In the old days ,these had other uses besides warming the engine up.
The really low idle can be useful for ultra slow crawling in low range.

Its also blasphemy on here to call them chokes. Hand throttle will do fine

 

[Cody O Riellerson]

When the diaphragm is bad, the idle often goes up several hundred RPM. Those who are not in the know about the diaphragm usually turn the idle way down to compensate the increasing idle RPM.

All you need to do is adjust the idle screw on the back of the "throttle body" until your idle is back to where it should be - about 650 RPM.

If you're in the neighborhood, then we can do that for your at no charge.

Oh, and I think you got about 4" of lift out the deal... it sure made a HUGE difference to your BJ70.

~John

Hey John!

I appreciate it! Might be a few weekends before I can make it up, but I'll be happy to take you up on that offer. Truck's running great; and looking deadly. I've been aiming for the potholes on my street so the springs are starting to loosen up!

 

[Clem]

How about a pic of your BJ70 with the new lift?

Clem

 

[cicak]

Damn the RADD cuiser shop sounds the go.

Open a workshop over here and you would be flooded with Cruisers.