so is it true that the stupid torsions can really only go about 1.5" before trouble starts happening. i need to get the manual locking hubs but still think this is completely dumb if they made it to adjust height but it's going to wreck something. also anyone know of the measurement of space between the bumpstops rather than just saying 1.5".
torsion bar
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Downey
SILVER Star
My guess is you have a 1986-95??? You actually can crank-in 2" to 3" of lift with the H.D. Torsion Bars, but you need to stop at about 1.5" for a couple of reasons:
(a) You will keep bursting inner CB Boots prematurely when you crank over 1.5".
(b) You will loose ability to realign the front-end over 1.5" of lift. Your alignment guy would normally have to uncrank you down to 1.5" in order to achieve alignment.
(a) You will keep bursting inner CB Boots prematurely when you crank over 1.5".
(b) You will loose ability to realign the front-end over 1.5" of lift. Your alignment guy would normally have to uncrank you down to 1.5" in order to achieve alignment.
Yup, plus anything over about 1.5" and the ride gets REALLY harsh.
2ndGenToyotaFan
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The torsion bars were meant for adjustment... not a "dial a lift" type thing... If you want more than 1.5 go find a solid axle...
search for "ball joint spacer"
Offroad products for the serious offroad enthusiast! has the OME 2" kit for the IFS system. One thing i've always wondered is how this kit works... if you can only get 1.5 inches of lift and still be within a safe/reliable setup how does this kit pull it off? I dont see any spacers as part of it (and arent those also limited to 1.5"?), although it does come with OME torsion bars... however as Downy stated above even though you can you will run into problems. anyoen know how this OME kit gets away with 2" in the front on IFS?
Well, I think you can get more than 1.5" out of the torsion bars without disabling your ability to align it. I'm sure this varies a bit and someone will chime in saying they couldn't even get 1.5"
The thing is, for good articulation you want the truck to flex easily, front and rear, and this means soft springs. In the rear this means long soft springs, additional arch sets the amount of flex, but also the ride height.
In the front, to have a soft (flexy) suspension you want thinner longer torsion bars. The thing is, your torsion bar mounts are set on the frame and the upper control arm. This means you cannot have a longer torsion bar without moving the mount. This is certainly not a common mod, I can't say I know anyone that's done it or where you'd buy the longer springs. Thinner torsion springs than stock would be great, but you'd have to crank the heck out of them to return your ride height.
Where this leaves us is, stock tbars are the best for our application, larger tbars is never good. The people that tell you they are, are trying to sell them to you. They're certainly a market for selling a confusing product. If they were great, I'm sure Marlin would sell them.
The thing is, for good articulation you want the truck to flex easily, front and rear, and this means soft springs. In the rear this means long soft springs, additional arch sets the amount of flex, but also the ride height.
In the front, to have a soft (flexy) suspension you want thinner longer torsion bars. The thing is, your torsion bar mounts are set on the frame and the upper control arm. This means you cannot have a longer torsion bar without moving the mount. This is certainly not a common mod, I can't say I know anyone that's done it or where you'd buy the longer springs. Thinner torsion springs than stock would be great, but you'd have to crank the heck out of them to return your ride height.
Where this leaves us is, stock tbars are the best for our application, larger tbars is never good. The people that tell you they are, are trying to sell them to you. They're certainly a market for selling a confusing product. If they were great, I'm sure Marlin would sell them.
i have ome springs in rear.ome front & rear shocks.cranked factory torsion.will be upgrading to HD ome torsion later.one of original is cranked all the way so it must be getting pretty weak.have busted an outer cv boot but it has 300k miles.new will be more pliable.ride is what i call "crisp".on the edge of harsh driving in town but great on hwy
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IMHO the best way to lift a torsion ifs rig is ball joint spacers. They allow for more lift and travel with the arms at close to stock angle, so close to stock ride comfort. IMHO the stock bars are plenty stiff for everything but high speed baja racing type driving and way heavy rigs, for most typical wheeling they would be better off with a slightly softer bar.
Theory of Operation
Ball Joint Spacers
Toyota 2WD/4WD IFS Front Ball Joint Spacers for Pickup, 4Runner and T100
Theory of Operation
Ball Joint Spacers
Toyota 2WD/4WD IFS Front Ball Joint Spacers for Pickup, 4Runner and T100
I have OME rear leafs, heavy duty torsions up front and shocks at all 4 corners I also have ball joint spacers. MY ride is great I have had no issues
I have OME rear leafs, heavy duty torsions up front and shocks at all 4 corners I also have ball joint spacers. MY ride is great I have had no issues
is that setup with the tbars cranked all the way or relaxed? im trying to get an understaning of how a ball joint spacer pairs up with those rear leafs. ideally... a spacer would be enough so that you could relax the tbars and maintain equal height with the rear suspension and still have a flexible front so hopefully you can clarify this. also... you say your ride great... but how does it do in terms of flex on the trails?
nice rig by the way, thats pretty much ideal lift/ride hight level i would want with mine.
Before you go putting alot of money in the ifs check out the solid axle swaps iv been looking at doing this for a long time. Iv never done this but talked 2 alot of people that have and eveyone says its not hard at all. And not that much $$ if you can find some used parts. I got a complete solid axle, both front and rear 6in lift springs and shackles for $400. Soon as winters over it going on. Ive only done some moderate wheeling and ive broke 2 stock t/bs They gotta go.
I did remove one leaf from the rear Packs. I was able to move my torsion bars back to stock position. the ball joint spacers gave me roughly 1.5-2 in lift in front and the leafs in the rear gave 2-3 in of lift. I would say the ride is what a stock 4runner would be nothing more or less.
I have OME rear leafs, heavy duty torsions up front and shocks at all 4 corners I also have ball joint spacers. MY ride is great I have had no issues
if you have blocks under those springs, you have problems. you need to remove them
what size tires were you on when they broke? anything else different than stock at the time?
Just 31 bfg at and the t/b looked new when they broke.
I think the lift is from the rear springs, not the block. OME springs provide about 2"-2.5" lift, according to the manufacture website.
I'm probably going to go this route too on my '91 PU since I need clearance for only 32" tires.
no blocks on my trucks!
I am going to go with the SDORI ball joint spacers from toytec, I was just wondering if the add-a-leafs are going to be alright or should I spend the extra money and go with a whole new spring set up? Also I have plenty of flex in the rear just want a little extra height to match the ball joint spacers will the add-a-leaf ruin my rear flex?
2ndGenToyotaFan
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Longer shackles? they shouldn't effect the flex at all....