Top trunion cap tough to get seated

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Colorado Springs, CO.
Got the top and bottom trunion races installed last night. Trying to get the top trunion cap on, bearings are installed, but can't get the cap to seat in there all the way. I was using a rubber mallet to pound away but no luck. Any tips? Should I just get the bolts in there and tightening them side by side?



Also just to double check, the races are not totally flush with the knuckle. I used a rubber mallet and pounded them in all the way, they can't go any further. Is this correct?

 
Races should be seated with a brass drift and hammer. Use old races over new ones - cut so they don't stick - to completely seat new ones. Throw the rubber mallet away and use a real hammer.
 
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Don't forget to hang the inner seal components over outer axle housing before you reinstall bearing cap and knuckle arm.
 
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Thanks, I guess you are talking about the wiper kit when you mean inner seal components, I have those on. I will take everything back off and pound those races in more, weird thing is they are pretty flush at the bottom lip so I can't see them going on much further, but I'll give it a try.
 
Try to wiggle the whole knuckle, once you get one in the other should line up pretty quick, it is an exact fit, do not tighten the cap bolts untill you get the cap started in the bearing....and as spartan said, ditch the rubber mallet. A brass hammer and 4lb sledge with a good brass drift are a must for doing this job.
 
Don't mean to hijack this, but a brass drift would be the same as a Brass Punch ?

I'm planning on doing this work soon, and I'm getting all the tools (preparation) necessary.
 
Yep, drift or punch, six-pack of one, half-dozen of the other.
 
Try to wiggle the whole knuckle, once you get one in the other should line up pretty quick, it is an exact fit, do not tighten the cap bolts untill you get the cap started in the bearing....and as spartan said, ditch the rubber mallet. A brass hammer and 4lb sledge with a good brass drift are a must for doing this job.

You don't NEED anything brass. Its nice to have, but not necessary. I installed new trunnion races with a ball peen hammer back in November and I haven't had problems at all.

When you go to install the bearing cap, make sure to get it started in the bearing first, thread the bolts in and tighten them as evenly as you can.
 
How do you get the races fully seated when you can't hit them with a hammer anymore?

To use a brass drift or " punch " for race installation - use a hex cut or square one if you have it to lay horizontally on top of the race and hammer the brass, not the race. If you don't have a hex cut, you can use a round one. Personally, I would not hammer a race directly, but that's me. Evidently some folks do.
 
Or you can spend a little bit of money on amazon and get a race and seal driver set and screw all that pounding around with brass bars and hammers haha :hillbilly:
 
That would be too easy. LOL
 
So for an update, got a brass drift and tried to get the trunion races to seat better, but no dice. They didn't budge, but really looking at them, they are totally flush with the lip so they weren't going to move anywhere.

Put on the knuckle housing for both sides and moved to inserting the axle on the drivers side. Tried for like 45 mins and gave up. Like trying to thread a needle. Went over to the passenger side and within 2 minutes had that axle on, so I will give it another try in the morning.
 
Or you can spend a little bit of money on amazon and get a race and seal driver set and screw all that pounding around with brass bars and hammers haha :hillbilly:

My way is faster. :hillbilly: I'd rather just pound them in with a hammer and extension than wait a week and a half for the driver set.
 
The drivers side is definitely more problematic due to the length. When you look inside the axle tube do you see a stamped sheet metal guide/washer/collar/index ring (it's been called lots of things) a couple inches inside? Some times they get knocked loose. You want to use that to pivot the axle up a little bit. I would also make sure that the axle seal was not damaged trying to put the axle in, or else you may be doing it again, which is no fun:frown:

Good luck tomorrow:beer:
 
Finally got it in after spending 2 hours trying to get the axle to slid in. I then stopped and looked at how the birf was orientated and it wasn't totally straight. So got in the truck and turned the wheel to get it as straight as possible and bam, first try got the axle in.

Oh well learning as I go, I'm sure the second time around this will go much faster. Now onto the hub's.
 

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