Getting my lift on Monday - 2.5" OME. It's between the 285 or the 315's. I like the idea of the 315, but what are some disadvantages of the larger tire? Is there rubbing when turning? Any and all advice is welcome. Thanks.
Tires 285 VS. 315
- Thread starter westonirons
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No, there is rubbing on flexing. You chose the wrong lift if you were considering 35" tires.
No problems with my OME (850/860) and 315's. I extended the rear bump stops 2". Other than that all is fine. IMO it looks are performs just fine for me. Off and on road.
I ran 315's on the OME mediums for quite a while when patiently waiting for Christo to deliver the front arms and spacers several years back before the 4" spring days came along. If your question is will it rub while turning the answer is no, at least not under normal driving conditions. Maybe rubbing when loaded and off-road. I drove all over Montana and Wyoming and never had a problem. If you are considering going 315 just do it. There are several options after you go the 2.5 and you won't be happy with the smaller tires if you are torn between the two. Now while flexing out I still rub with a 5" lift.
Here's what 315's look like off road on a OME lift.
Here is what the same tires in 285 look like off road on an OME lift.
The general consensus on Mud, with the exception of a couple of naysayers, is that either of those setups will work 33 or 35's. After my 285's I switched to 315's. Why, because I thought it looked better, and if I decide to air down, I'm still a little higher than with the 33's
Here is what the same tires in 285 look like off road on an OME lift.
The general consensus on Mud, with the exception of a couple of naysayers, is that either of those setups will work 33 or 35's. After my 285's I switched to 315's. Why, because I thought it looked better, and if I decide to air down, I'm still a little higher than with the 33's
Wish I would have gone with 35's now with my OME 2.5 lift. Just to much space around the tire. Looks like you can fit a basketball in there. Need to save for 35's and then sell my new 33's.
question re: rubbing on the 315's. is it the width that makes it rub? or the height of the tire? would running a 35X10.5 be a better solution?
My 315/75/16 rubbed on the curved portion of the real wheelwell prior to the isntallation of the borrowed 2" bumpstops. I'm not sure if a 10.5 on a stock 16" rim may skip the radius and rub the horizontal portion on the wheelwell. During our highly scientific trials, we tried 1" spacer, 1.5", then finally 2" worked. But limited the tire stuff of course the most. You can stuff the heck out of a 285/75/16 without bumpstop modification. Incidently, spacing out the bumpstop is not difficult at all.
I haven't re-geared for 315's. I think it depends largely on where you live, and the year of your 80. (90-92 vs. 93-97)
In the Rocky Mountains or at altitude, I think I would be inclined to regear. The longest hills in our Ozark mountains may be a mile or so. No big deal. It's not like it continues for 100's of miles. For non-local towing I may also switch gearing or just take a different vehicle.
The 80 series aren't exactly neck snappers to begin with. Old Bull vs. Young Bull.
In the Rocky Mountains or at altitude, I think I would be inclined to regear. The longest hills in our Ozark mountains may be a mile or so. No big deal. It's not like it continues for 100's of miles. For non-local towing I may also switch gearing or just take a different vehicle.
The 80 series aren't exactly neck snappers to begin with. Old Bull vs. Young Bull.
There's always the in-between size of 295/75/16's like I have. These are Hankook Dynapro MT's that I have on an OME Heavy front/Medium rear lift. No rubbing whatsoever and they fill out the wheel wells a heck of a lot better than the 285's and don't require regearing. There's not many tires out there in this size, but this is certainly a viable option if you want an MT. If you want an AT, there's always the BFG's which come in a 295.
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He is not running OME Heavy (which will also rub on 35's without modification because it uses the same shocks). Unless you modify the bumpstops and limit rear flex by almost 2", they will rub.
Without flares, a 35" tire rubs with 1.25" of travel left. Here is a picture of the bumpstop when the tire hits.
You guys need to stop posting that OME medium fits 35's without rubbing. It only does so if a) you don't flex, or b) you limit up travel and therefore reduce the up travel of your suspension.
You can reduce OME medium to an 8" travel suspension, which is probably less than stock, and run 35's. There is more than enough lift to fit the tires. The second pic is OME medium on 35's.
Without flares, a 35" tire rubs with 1.25" of travel left. Here is a picture of the bumpstop when the tire hits.
You guys need to stop posting that OME medium fits 35's without rubbing. It only does so if a) you don't flex, or b) you limit up travel and therefore reduce the up travel of your suspension.
You can reduce OME medium to an 8" travel suspension, which is probably less than stock, and run 35's. There is more than enough lift to fit the tires. The second pic is OME medium on 35's.
I'm kind of in the same camp as NAY on this one. I have 285/75-16 on my cruiser, as well as the OME heavy lift and I nearly ripped my flare caps off from the rubbing.
I find it hard to believe anybody running a 33 or bigger can claim they get no rubbing when wheeling with any of the standard OME lifts.
I find it hard to believe anybody running a 33 or bigger can claim they get no rubbing when wheeling with any of the standard OME lifts.
How in the world is your 285's nearly ripping a flare off?? There should be zero contact unless your bump stops are worn or you have some axle misalingment.
The whole argumet to run 35s should be based on:
1. How much rubbing is acceptable for the individual
2. How much bump stop lowering will be needed to satisfy that individual.
3. How much wheel travel will be left after said stop lowering vs. the amount of lift
If the individual doesn't care about rubbing and flares etc. are removed then it's possible to run with no bump stop modification. In that case a stock lift is perfectly acceptable. SO AGAIN I say go search, read what's been talked to death about and make YOUR own descision to what is acceptable.
The whole argumet to run 35s should be based on:
1. How much rubbing is acceptable for the individual
2. How much bump stop lowering will be needed to satisfy that individual.
3. How much wheel travel will be left after said stop lowering vs. the amount of lift
If the individual doesn't care about rubbing and flares etc. are removed then it's possible to run with no bump stop modification. In that case a stock lift is perfectly acceptable. SO AGAIN I say go search, read what's been talked to death about and make YOUR own descision to what is acceptable.
Unless you have plans on high speed desert running with a heavily loaded rig you should be fine. If you're running trails with the family and not running any serious rocks it should work fine. The only rubbing I've seen is in the rear inner wheel well at full stuff.
As I mentioned in the beginning unless you're cruising desert roads at high speed and rubbing will be done at very slow speeds and shouldn't be an issue. If you're uncomfortable with that and still want 315s you could install a 1" body lift. If you're comfortable installing the lift kit the body lift isn't any worse.
4Crawler Body lift info
As a side note if you choose to go with 315s BEFORE you install the lift kit see if you can exchange the shocks for the "L" shocks and install a 2" bump stop in the rear. The front shouldn't be an issue since the control arm setup binds enough not to allow efficient stuffing of the front tires.
Good luck and welcome to MUD
As I mentioned in the beginning unless you're cruising desert roads at high speed and rubbing will be done at very slow speeds and shouldn't be an issue. If you're uncomfortable with that and still want 315s you could install a 1" body lift. If you're comfortable installing the lift kit the body lift isn't any worse.
4Crawler Body lift info
As a side note if you choose to go with 315s BEFORE you install the lift kit see if you can exchange the shocks for the "L" shocks and install a 2" bump stop in the rear. The front shouldn't be an issue since the control arm setup binds enough not to allow efficient stuffing of the front tires.
Good luck and welcome to MUD
Agree completely. In my case the rubbing would have caused physical body damage even with flares removed, because an MT will tear up flares and fenders upon heavy contact.
What I should have said in my first post is "You chose the wrong lift for 35" tires if you expect zero rubbing in rock crawling conditions without additional suspension modifications that may reduce performance in certain areas."
If you just plan to do light wheeling and want the look, absolutely go for the big tires and just drop the rear bumpstops. You can see what it will look like in my pic above.
My original goal was 35's on a 2.5" lift, but I think an extra inch is allows for a more optimal design. Any higher, and 35's start to look small just like the 33's look a bit small on the 2.5" lift.
I recommend the 295's that others have recommended. That is a great balance of look/performance on OME medium.
I run 295's and they work QUITE WELL with a hvy/med lift without armor. I have added sliders and frt/rr bumpers and get rubbing when wheeling (only inside the wheel well). I've never rubbed the flare, at least not noticeable. Rubbing does not bother me. Dragging my a$$ over numerous obstacles DOES.
I will be jumping up a spring to regain some of the height I had prior to adding armor. I"ll also be going to 315's at some point.
I will be jumping up a spring to regain some of the height I had prior to adding armor. I"ll also be going to 315's at some point.
