Tire Advice

[Blue77FJ40]

On Schoolbus, I had stopped on grade and noticed that a nice long root was indenting my MTR sidewall by at least 3-4 inches. Nice pointy root. As I pulled up and away from the root, I heard a loud pop as the root popped out of the sidewall. I thought the worst and when I stopped and examined the sidewall, there was not one mark. At all.

 

[greytandy]

Well, I guess the question is then will 33x12.5 fit? I'm not necessarily averse to a larger tire, as long as given the current constraints of my 40 they will not rub. Would I need to get smaller wheels as well?

 

[kulangot]

With Emu, 33x12.50's are a tight fit. You'll have to cut your rear fenders and maybe trim the fronts. Even then, you'll get some rub. That is why Donny runs the 32x9.50 and I ran the 33x10.50 both clear with no issues. If you want to run a 33x12.50 your much better off with a 4" inch lift. However, you can run a shackle reversal kit in the front and gain about 1.5 in lift from that and some longer shackles in the rear. With this setup, you can clear the 33's no problem.

Dan, don't get me wrong. The MTR is a great tire, just not available in the tall and skinny size I like. All I really care about is the snow and for that a 33x10.50 rocks over a fatter 12.50. I ran the MTR on our Heep Rubicon and so my did little brother. I also ran them on my D90. Great tire. I just prefer a skinny tire for a 40 where as the D90 and Heep look cooler with the wider tire. I did not like the way they picked up gravel and threw it at my other cars on my long driveway. Just a little annoyance. Swampers and MT's did not do that. JMHO. I am considering running wider axles on my next 40 build. If I do, I'll run the wider MTR as well as they are a great all around tire.

 

[breckbone]

I assume these wheels would be adequate?

Cragar 3105860 - Cragar Nomad I Wheels - summitracing.com
or
U.S. Wheel 70-5855-SPEC - U.S. Wheel Custom Order Dropship Only Wheels - summitracing.com

I'm, by every means, a complete tire noob, but don't all 40s have a 6-lug pattern? The wheels above are 5-lugs...is this a major obstacle or something that is easily overcome? I've been thinking of getting new tires, as well, and have been following this thread closely. For what I want, the 33x10.5 seems to be the way to go...but, John, you said the stock rims are 6"? I'm sure I'm confusing what's being measured here, but am I right in assuming that, if I wanted 33x10.5, I'd need new wheels? I'd love to keep the stock hubcaps just because I think they look cool....

Sorry bout the thread hi-jack, Dave...I'll add another beer to the couple I already owe ya

 

[kulangot]

Hey Craig,

Hope you been well.

Yep, all 6 lug. Probably a link to the wrong wheel. Wheel adapters are not good, just buy the right rim.

6" means 6 inches wide and 15'' inches tall.

Some are 5 inches wide? Bueller? I think pre disc brakes maybe? The wheels with the rivit's and not the welds? I'd have to ask Josh Fleming.

Anyway, a 33x10.50 fits on a stock rim and more importantly, it tucks up into the fender wells really well where was a 33x12.50 will hit the lip of the front and rear fenders. 34x9.50 and 34x10.50 swampers also fit into the fenders really well when mounted on stock rims. '

I like the idea of using a 33x10.50 for mild wheeling and a 34x10.50 swamper for off road and deep snow. Jason V. who used to live in Vienna and now is in colorado runs a 34" on stock rims and only a 2" lift. A guy here in LA does too. That's a lot of tire and a lot of ground clearance for not much lift.

 

[greytandy]

I'm, by every means, a complete tire noob, but don't all 40s have a 6-lug pattern? The wheels above are 5-lugs...is this a major obstacle or something that is easily overcome? I've been thinking of getting new tires, as well, and have been following this thread closely. For what I want, the 33x10.5 seems to be the way to go...but, John, you said the stock rims are 6"? I'm sure I'm confusing what's being measured here, but am I right in assuming that, if I wanted 33x10.5, I'd need new wheels? I'd love to keep the stock hubcaps just because I think they look cool....

Sorry bout the thread hi-jack, Dave...I'll add another beer to the couple I already owe ya

No problem Craig. I hijack all the time.

The Crager's are 6 lug looking at the description at the bottom. I believe the US Wheels can be made for 6 lug, but the link I provided is 5 lug. I see that John has responded to the rest.

Here's a good link for describing stuff. https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html

 

[Blue77FJ40]

The 33x12.5 MTRs I still have fit on my '40 with the 2" OME lift I had. It *was* a tight fit, but it worked. It was only a problem in extreme articulation and I did not trim anything. I did roll the front fenders inside a little bit, and I did open up the turn stops on the front to avoid hitting the TRE boots under tire flex, but it all worked.

The MTRs stuffed inside the rear fenderwell, but it was *close*. I could have put a longer limiter on the rear axle if I had to, but didn't need it. All that said, I have much better clearance with the 4" lift. The most I could possibly go to now is 35", but I'm in no hurry for that yet.

John, skinny is fine, never said it wasn't. For some, it's the only way to go. I've seen the TSLs in skinny, and they looked pretty aggressive, cool. It's all good.

 

[kulangot]

Dan,

It's is very interesting how the same parts work out differently on the same truck. (Not joking, being serious) On Donny's truck, his 33's rubbed so bad (even with 1.5 and 2.5 longer Downey Rubicon shackles) that he had to take his the longer shackles off the back and swap them over to front. I doubt that BFG 33's are larger than 33 inch MTR's but maybe. To clarify, he chewed up a tire.

He did run a large bullbar and winch with his high lift mounted in front and he does have factory AC. Perhaps that contributed to the problem?

A slight difference in wheel offset could make it rub worse on his truck as I recall that at one point he had aluminum wheels.

What's that old saying? Your actual experience may vary...I think it's very important to take this in consideration when picking parts.

-Stumbaugh

 

[Felix]

I've never seen so much agreement in a tire thread!

I just thought I'd throw in my bit about sidewall strength. I haven't done it, yet, (since I'm slow to do ANYTHING on the truck) but when I get another set of tires, they'll be swampers. The last time I was wheeling I had an innocent looking nub of a root tear a 3-1/2 inch hole in the sidewall of a Bridgestone Dueler MT, which are supposedly stronger than the BFGs. It sucks. So, even though I don't do any hard-core wheeling, I'm willing to live with the shorter tread-life knowing that I likely won't rip a sidewall again.

 

[breckbone]

John, thanks for the info. You now have me thinking about 34x9.50s. I love the tall skinny look. I *think* the shackles that those pigs put on my 40 give it a 2" lift. Would that be enough for a 34"? Hopefully I can get some new rubber on my tank before the Fall...that's when our baby is due and I will probably run out of time for anything 40-related for a while. Anyway, I hope life is treating you well out west.

Thanks for the link, Dave...I is getn smarrtr all teh tyme

Felix, I miss the Digital Underground. ;p

 

[kulangot]

Craig,

Might be tight with just a 2" shackle as you generally get about half the length of shackle length over stock - so a 2" longer shackle gives you about 1 inch of lift.

Did I remember this right? Bob, Dan, et al?

Go for a short lift spring like some used skyjackers and a shackle lift and you'll be in good shape. Other wise a 31 or 32" is about all you can run with just a shackle. Been there and done that.

You got all of the bugs worked out of that truck? Did you get the motor sorted out?

This thread is hijacked but it's all about the locals here huh...

JS

 

[greytandy]

I *think* the shackles that those pigs put on my 40 give it a 2" lift.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Yeah, with just the 2" over stock length shackle, he's ony getting 1" lift. Not near enough for 33" x 12.50 tires. For every inch over stock length, you only achieve 1/2" of lift. and you don't want to go more than 1.5" over stock in the front, or you'll have steering problems. and then it's shim time.

OME lift kit is about 2.5" lift, and it's a tight fit at that. You probably get away with 34" skinny tires... maybe. I think that's what Charleton had.

 

[Felix]

OME lift kit is about 2.5" lift, and it's a tight fit at that. You probably get away with 34" skinny tires... maybe. I think that's what Charleton had.

I'm not sure a 2.5" lift will clear 34s w/o some cutting [this statement is incorrect]. Charleton currently runs 32x10.50s [I think this one is okay].

 

[Blue77FJ40]

It's the narrowness of the tire that allows them to tuck inside the rear fenderwell. Especially when mounted on the stock rims. I thought it was Charlton, if not, can't remember who it was with the 34 skinnys. Cerainly 33 skinnys will definitely work, but 34s are best tested first before purchase, if you can.

What's your tire status, Felix?

 

[kulangot]

I'm not sure a 2.5" lift will clear 34s w/o some cutting. Charleton currently runs 32x10.50s.

Like Dan said, this works because of the tire tucking up into the fender wells. I've run this setup myself back in the mid 90's, a guy here in LA runs the Rubicon with this setup and Jason V. does as well. Like an idiot, I took this setup off my truck in 1993-94 and went to 36's because "bigger is better". I often looked back and wished I'd just left well enough alone.

Here is a post about the 34's

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/173282-34-9-5xr15-super-swampers.html

I've met this guy and seen the truck in person, it's well tested

 

[Felix]

It's the narrowness of the tire that allows them to tuck inside the rear fenderwell. Especially when mounted on the stock rims. I thought it was Charlton, if not, can't remember who it was with the 34 skinnys. Cerainly 33 skinnys will definitely work, but 34s are best tested first before purchase, if you can.

What's your tire status, Felix?

Yeah, I realized I was probably wrong after I posted that. I think was mixing up 2.5" lift with 2.5" shackle in my head.

My current tire status is "hoping to buy the aforementioned Charleton 32s in the near future." I'd hoped to just get a new set, but the recent replacement of all four tires on my wife's Mini Cooper S has taken a bite. For the record, run-flats suck.

Felix

 

[kulangot]

Felix,

I was shocked at what the tires on my wifes BMW cost to replace.

Next time check tire rack.com

-JS

 

[John Smith]

Felix, Is she taking the car to the track? We have the run flats on our S and I just rotated them last weekend. The rears had no real wear and the fronts have a ton of life left. Ours are the Pirelli run flats. My co-worker has an older S with the Goodyear run flats with a ton more miles and still has life on the original tires.

My father weekend races his M3 at the track and can go through a set of tires in a weekend. And I thought tires were expensive for our trucks...

 

[kulangot]

I don't know about Felix's wife, but mine goes through tires.

She's had two honda S2000's both of them the tires were shot at 10K miles.

On her current 330 BMW, the tires show signs of wear at 4000 miles.

I think she drives like she's on the track.

I made her sell the S2000 after she spun it a few times on back roads.

I literally can't take a cup of coffee in the car when she drives, even in the minivan. There is no hope of not spilling it.

She blew up the motor in her SLK at 10K miles and fried the clutch in her GTI at 36K miles. Hard on cars...

Perhaps Felix's wife drives the same way.

-JS