Timing Cover Removal, Need Advice

[MSGGrunt]

I have searched and read CDans thread on his replacement of the timing cover and am still not 100% sure I have the answer I need so I will ask all you in the know out there in Cruiser Land to help me out. I am removing my front timing chain cover to replace a broken timing chain slipper, do I have to:

remove the PS pump top stud? Does it go into the front cover?
remove water pump mounting studs for more wiggle room?
remove studs that go into the timing cover from the pan side?

I have the head off (had it rebuilt & new HG), oil pans (both hot tanked) and will be working on the front pulley and cover and would like to avoid any surprises.

PS NAPA sells the correct 3/4" drive 30mm six-point socket (impact) for the crank bolt for only $14.00.

Thanks for all the help.

Dave Horn

 

[cruiserman]

I didn't remove any studs to get the cover off, just the bolts and nuts.

 

[robbie]

With the head off and the pans it really is easy. Undo all the stuff to the front cover. take off all the nuts and bolts. pull the bad boy off. Looking at it will be better than asking what you have to do, especially if you have the head and pans off. P/S pump mounting is a stud/ double stud. You do not have to remove the P/S pump to remove the cover. later robbie

 

[RavenTai]

Ouch broken chain slipper on a 97? Thought the later 80's had a redesigned slipper?

 

[MSGGrunt]

Thanks Robbie and cruiserman. After lunch I am on my way out to attempt to remove the crank pulley and front cover. I have to take advantage of the heat wave (20's) we are having today in MASS.

 

[robbie]

You can suspened the top of the chain with a bungee to the hood hook then sit the battery in the bay, hook it up. Then put your big breaker bar on wtih your new socket, brace it against the frame(to prevent the rotation of the engine(clockwise)). bump the engine with the starter. This should break the nut loose, may take a couple of bumps. As long as the chain is tight, may want to bar the engine over by hand first to make sure the chain is not bunched up, you should not hurt the timing cover doing this, but if the chain is bunched up any where, you may screw the timing cover. be careful, but this is dooable(as long as you can trust some, and have the conjones). later robbie

 

[cruiserman]

I was able to remove the crank bolt by hand, but I had a long breaker bar . W/o air tools, you will need something to hold the crank in place. You may need it even with air tools.

 

[MSGGrunt]

All is well, I was able to brace the crank with a long pry bar and use the 3/4" drive Craftsman ratched to get the bolt out. For future reference, the handle of a high lift jack fits perfectly over the ratchet and gives plenty of leverage. The pulley came of with only a little bit of leverage applied and the timing cover came off just as easy.

The broken slipper chain was my fault. I snapped off the top ear when I was lowering the head onto the block. I did not have the slipper and guide squeezed together as per the manual so I deserve it. It was for the better as the oil pick-up in the pan was caked with sludge where the PO must not have changed the oil frequently. That was hot tanked and I will have all new seals, "O" rings and gaskets so leaks should be a thing of the past. The only things not out of the block for reconditioning were the pistons, rods, and crank. The cylinders looked fine and the compression was well within factory specs. I'm hoping several oil changes with Mobile 1 will clean out the motor even more.

 

[landtank]

Looks like I'll be passsing through Worcester on Thursday early to mid afternoon. Are you going to be around?

 

[MSGGrunt]

I'll be out working on the rig if you want to stop by. I even promise not to put you to work. Would be nice to have another set of eyes look over my work. I'll PM you the address and directions.