Timing Chain Jumped

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IDave

IDave

Joined
Jan 3, 2003
Threads
86
Messages
7,184
Location
McCall, ID
Friend has an 86 minitruck with a 22RE. A couple of weeks ago he heard a clunk and greatly lost power. Finally got it into the mechanic today and he told him the chain was off 2 links, and thought that was unusual for it to jump that much.

Temporary fix was to pop the chain back to where it was supposed to be on the cam sprocket, after which he had to adjust the ignition timing. I didn't realize you could move the chain on the sprocket without pulling the entire assembly. Apparently the tensioner lets you do that?

Anyway, makes me think that the link had jumped one previously and someone had just adjusted the ignition timing for that, without checking the chain; now it jumped another.

I haven't had experience with EFI or timing chains yet, so I'm asking for thoughts.

Thoughts? :hillbilly:
 
Worn TC on a 22R/RE will jump a tooth or two when really stretched.
In addition to the chain stretching the tensioners will disintegrate, compounding the problem.

When really bad for a long period the slack will wear thru the TC cover and then you have a oil/coolant milkshake nightmare.
 
And yes, when you can adjust the chain on the sprocket by hand, it's really worn.
 
So he probably shouldn't wait around too long! :eek:
 
IDave said:
So he probably shouldn't wait around too long! :eek:
Click to expand...

If that's the actual problem, then yes.

Jumping a tooth is minor compared to wearing a hole thru the TC cover.
 
If the guides and/or tensioner are wore out then it could jump time. You were lucky it only jumped a couple of teeth. If it jumps too much you can bend all of your valves. I would install a new timing chain kit very soon. I would also consider using metal guides instead of the hydraulic tensioner. There are a few companies that make these and are well worth the investment if you plan on keeping the truck for a while.
 
Thanks, I'm passing on all of this to him (and I appreciate the knowledge as well, since it applies to my daughter's truck).

This is not a time of year that it's easy for him to drop the $500 to do the job, so he's crossing his fingers.

What would it cost, and how many banana job is it to do one's self? I know it involves draining and dropping the oil pan, radiator, removing timing cover, alternator, gaskets, etc.
 
toyminator said:
I would also consider using metal guides instead of the hydraulic tensioner.
Click to expand...

The metal guides don't replace the tensioner, there are 2 guides plus the tensioner. But yes, metal guides are the ticket! Engine Builder or LC engineering I think have them....

IDave said:
What would it cost, and how many banana job is it to do one's self? I know it involves draining and dropping the oil pan, radiator, removing timing cover, alternator, gaskets, etc.
Click to expand...

The timing kit is under $100 and it's a good weekend job... I'd say 2-3 Bannana, only cause there's lots of parts to take off and put back on, not cause it's all that difficult...

You don't have to pull the pan or the head to do it, I did not, but if the guides are gone, then they are in the pan and you'll want to get them out... Also, without removing the pan or head, getting the timing cover back in and sealed properly is a pain... Mine did not seal perfectly, and leaks a little, but not enough to worry about...
 
OK. So there's a like a kit I can order from CDan?
 
Gotcha! Thanks
 
Here is a picture of the front of the 22RE engine. The big aluminum cover that houses the water pump and oil pump has to come off. The head does not have to be removed. You can access the top cover bolt by removing the timing chain gear on the camshaft.


I feel it is a very long 2.5 to 3 bannana job. Not real hard but alot of stuff gets inbolted.

I would recomend replacing the water pump while you have it out.
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Thanks, Dan! So even though your oil pan is off, there, it doesn't really need to come off?
 
It can be done without... but like I said, getting the cover back on can be a pain... and sealing it up is a little tricky, because as you slide it back in it peals the sealant off of the top and bottom of the cover...
 
Gotcha. I think. Think I'd have to be looking at it, but I have the idea.
 
check the FAQ often. there is a hidden bolt under the distributor

easy job. there are a lot of bolts that dont need to be removed. namely a few on the waterpump, and a few on the oil pump.

get a piece of cardboard, and draw a picture of how the cover looks and stick the bolts in the corresponding relation spot thru the card board. there are various lenghts that make a difference.

the ps pump bracket has to be town down. it has 3 parts, and it can be confusing putting it back together. there are a few bolts on the back side that will try and hide from your 14mm wrench. unleash the fury.

if the truck has a lift, it will be easy to take out the pan. if not. you gotta drop the diff.
it is a very good thing to do if the guides are all broken. you need to clean out all the parts from the pan.

and as far as water pumps go, might as well replace it, but in my experince, it has been best to use OE not tiwan garbage.
 
Lots of good stuff there. Don't know if I'll end up helping him do it or what. Thanks!
 
I hate it when that happens.
 
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