Tie rod flip

[bj74redrider]

On a recent wheeling trip a rogue rock attacked my tie rod and left it with a 10 degree bend and a broken spirit. The steering on this rig was never spectacular so I took the opportunity to replace the whole set up.

Luke from 4x4 labs. set me up with 1.25x.219 wall 1018 DOM threaded tubing, and some GM 1 ton tie rod ends. We decided to flip the tierod to the top of the steering arms from added Clarence.

Removing the old parts was pretty straight forward; the only special tool you may need is a pitman puller, and a convincing hammer to beat the old tie rods out of their 20 year homes. A well placed blow and the ends should fall out.

For the new GM ends to fit I had to reem the arms from the top. Snap-on makes the tapered reemer you need part # r121. Setting up the drill press took some time. Using lots of cutting oil, the reemer made short work of the arms.

The new drag link didn't have the hole for the steering damper so I picked up a rancho version r5404 (I think) and a bracket kit.

Did an alignment, took her for a drive, adjust drag link, another drive, another adjustment and that's all.

Anyway here are some pics.

 

[bj74redrider]

The wheel weights rubbed so I got the little sticky ones and moved them inside the wheel.

 

[bj74redrider]

done! any thoughts?

 

[prado t]

It looks alot stonger. I just went through a "fiasco" with my drag link and tie rod connecting under mild articulation when my front axle was moved forward to accept the 35"s . Anyhow I got it all fixed up now.
It looks alot stronger. Nice work!

 

[bj74redrider]

Thanks. What did you end up having to do? Caster shims? I plan on 35's in the next year or so.

It looks alot stonger. I just went through a "fiasco" with my drag link and tie rod connecting under mild articulation when my front axle was moved forward to accept the 35"s . Anyhow I got it all fixed up now.
It looks alot stronger. Nice work!

 

[wongtsenhin]

From what I see from the photos that your drag link does not come with the tensional spring inside the tie rod. Don't look down on this tensional spring, it has the function on itself.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

Nice work.

Granted, If another rock got up in there, I'd rather it bash my tie rod end and mangle it, then bash my knuckle arm but, it does give you a little more clearance being on top I guess.

 

[bj74redrider]

Nice work.

Granted, If another rock got up in there, I'd rather it bash my tie rod end and mangle it, then bash my knuckle arm but, it does give you a little more clearance being on top I guess.

Thanks. I agree, my other thought was the grease boots may collect water now that they are upside down.

From what I see from the photos that your drag link does not come with the tensional spring inside the tie rod. Don't look down on this tensional spring, it has the function on itself.

I don't remember seeing a spring in the old set up, what does it do?

 

[wongtsenhin]

The tensional spring is contained inside this drag link tie rod .

 

[TwoThirtyDirty]

I like this alot. Any chance you have the GM part numbers/moog part numbers for the rod ends that you used. Did you have to reverse the taper in the LH tie rod end (where the LH drag link end mounts)? Thanks in advance.

 

[bj74redrider]

I don't have a part number but those tie rod ends are widely used. Luke at 4x4 labs made everything to my specs. The end of the drag link with the hole was made specifically by Luke. I believe you could taper from the other side? You end up with an hour glass shape when your done reaming.

After running this set up most of the summer I have found the drag link rubs a bit on the steering damper mount when the axle moves forward over a big bump...

 

[TwoThirtyDirty]

Thanks for the info. Will do some digging and kick in anything interesting that I find.

 

[constablechris]

Looks the goods mate looks the goods.


Can anyone tell me if it is necessary to have on both ends of the drag arm the drag arm tie rod as shown by wongtsenhin pictures?

Reason I ask I have just bought a kit 45040-69102x (or 4504-069102) which has as the left hand side drag arm tie rod end a tie rod that is the ball type not the adjustable spring type like that shown in the picture. Mine still has the fittings to attach the steering damper.

My original is like the type in the pic.

Maybe have to take the kit back? Does say it is for 78/79 Should what I have work or not?

Thanks for your advice

 

[TwoThirtyDirty]

The only advantage of the spring loaded Toyota rod ends that I'm aware of is the ability to remove excessive play by tightening the end cap. That being said, I've had 3 units over the past 10 years that have been converted to GM steering components in one way or another...none of which suffered from the absense of the spring loaded rod end.

FWIW, I researched the 1 ton inverted T steering kits out there. Most are similar to the one above but use weld-in bungs to allow the DIYer to fab their own links. The rod ends are typically ES2026R, 2027L, 2233L and 2234R. I also found this

1-1/2" TPF BALL JOINT & TIE ROD TAPER REAMER #5952 | eBay

to be the best deal (IMO) on a quality reamer.

 

[prado t]

Thanks. What did you end up having to do? Caster shims? I plan on 35's in the next year or so.

Sorry for the late reply, I was enjoying my 74 up in the Chilcotin and Kootenays the last month or so .

I went with a longer shackle up front and a 60 series steering (pitman) arm (which is a bit shorter) so no touch. No Caster shims . Reason; I dont want to screw with the front pinion angle and also there was no bump steer. Right now it is as good as it is going to get. At 120km/h I cant tell if the hubs are locked in or not, no vibrations whatsoever.