Tie Rod Ends

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Counting threads or measuring rod protrusion will only get you close. It's easy enough to do an alignment once the new rods are in that I wouldn't even bother to count anything in disassembly.
 
Counting threads or measuring rod protrusion will only get you close. It's easy enough to do an alignment once the new rods are in that I wouldn't even bother to count anything in disassembly.

A good point ... just don't want to wear out tires getting to the alignment shop.
 
That thing looks amazing but I don't really want a to drop all that $$$ just to clean a few rods. I have a friend who has a garage full of tools and was able to get an angle grinder. It looks like I can just buy a wire wheel for that and it will work about the same?? Do I need to clean all the gunk off first (old dirt + grease) or will the wire wheel do that for me? :) Also the rods have little brackets on the ends with bolts-those twist a little bit but won't come off....should they slide off the end? I'll try to get some pics tonight before I clean them.

I would only buy the tool if you were planning on prepping the whole frame or doing a lot of other body work. Otherwise see Swedish Standard below and get a few wire brushes, a paint scraper and some cleaning detergent like Simple Green.

This type of tool is not comparable to a wire wheel on a grinder. A grinder spins at 10,000 to 11,000 RPM. This thing is variable speed with a trigger. A friend who is a burly weightlifter was using one a 4 inch angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel and caught the leading edge of the wheel on a lip. The grinder flipped from his hand and dug into forearm. Right through the welding glove. Gangrene three days later! His mother called me to complain! This type of tool is tons safer than a grinder and much faster.

I have about six grinders, use them a lot. They have their place. I also have a huge assortment of tradition wire wheels.

Like krzyabncanuck said, it may be more for hard core users but I got one of my friends to buy one and he wound up using it for nearly everything. It is amazing for cleaning the seam below the wind shield on the cowl or for digging rust and paint out of the many seams on a FJ40.

Rice, it is ideal to pre-clean or the wire wheel grinds the grease into the metal and makes it harder for the paint or primer to stick. It also spreads the grease all over where ever the wire wheel goes. Mucho bad for weld prep if the same wire wheel is used later. Causes porosity. Dirty welding gloves also cause the same problem.

There is an industrial standard called "Swedish Standard" for metal prep. It calls for removal of contaminants before any paint prep. Great info for prepping parts for paint.

Quote:

Surface contamination
It is essential to remove all soluble salts, oil, grease, drilling and cutting compounds and other surface contaminants prior to further surface preparation or painting of the steel. Perhaps the most common method is by solvent washing, followed by wiping dry with clean rags. The wiping is critical, because if this is not carried out thoroughly the result of solvent washing will simply be to spread the contamination over a wider area. Rags should be changed frequently. Proprietary emulsions, degreasing compounds and steam cleaning are also commonly used. Recommended procedures are described in International Standard ISO 8504:2000 (E) and SSPC-SP1.

from:

http://www.international-pc.com/resource-centre/documents/surface-preparation.pdf

Swedish Standard is an awesome how to guide if you want to do a good job on cleaning up rusted or new metal to prep for paint. It's also a fast and effective process.

Sorry for the long rant!
 
You can walk into 100 old shops and get 100 different ways of doing the same job. It is going to be what works best for them. Then you have to think about what the average Joe has in their little garage and Taylor your answer to what they have to get the job done. I have all sorts of tools that I could use on this very job. But I Taylor my answers to what I figure the person has and knows what to use. I learned how to turn wrenches in the 70's. What worked back then still works for me on basic stuff. This is the reason I do not answer a lot of questions anymore on here. Too old school for most of you.
 
You can walk into 100 old shops and get 100 different ways of doing the same job. It is going to be what works best for them. Then you have to think about what the average Joe has in their little garage and Taylor your answer to what they have to get the job done. I have all sorts of tools that I could use on this very job. But I Taylor my answers to what I figure the person has and knows what to use. I learned how to turn wrenches in the 70's. What worked back then still works for me on basic stuff. This is the reason I do not answer a lot of questions anymore on here. Too old school for most of you.


Very wise words. Often when I reply to a post, I think that if the response will not help the original poster, it will probably help someone else doing a search.

Edit: I often tell people to mindful of the fact that my advice about how I do things may not be relevant to how they need to do it and they need to make their own decisions about what is good for them. I am very particular about how I do things and a lot of what I do is not needed for most people. So when I give advice, consider it a little over the top and try to find what is useful for you in my rantings! One last point, what ever I say is how I like to do it, not the end all be all. We are all learning here! I am always seeking out the better way to do things. There is no right or wrong way, I will never be offended if you don't agree with me.

In this case, to the Original Poster - Check out the Swedish Spec and get a simple wire brush but be careful with a wire wheel on a grinder. Wear goggles! That last point is about the test tech I have posted so far! Wear goggles!
 
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A good point ... just don't want to wear out tires getting to the alignment shop.

I meant do the alignment yourself. See below.

I would still count the treads and then use string or dental floss for the alinement

http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ctrp_1204_determining_wheel_alignment_string_your_car/

more hardcore version:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/chassis/hrdp_0411_wheel_alignment_guide/viewall.html

I did this on my FJ40 after putting on tire rods and then got it alined. It was spot on. Maybe I got lucky.

Those above methods look complicated with lots of math and whatnot. You don't need to check to ensure that the axles are square because that's set by the springs and spring mounts, which means it is not adjustable. The only thing to set on a cruiser axle is the toe and then steering wheel alignment.

I've been doing my own alignment since 2008 or so and have never had a problem. Check it out:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/76961-do-your-own-alignment.html
 
Ok, now I am starting to get a little freaked out about using that grinder. My friend also suggested buying a wire wheel for my drill-said it would take much longer but would work. Is that what you are referring to or just a hand held brush? I have one of those and tried to brush off a little area and quite honestly, that did almost nothing. Anyone in Raleigh have a blast cabinet? :D
 
Ok, now I am starting to get a little freaked out about using that grinder. My friend also suggested buying a wire wheel for my drill-said it would take much longer but would work. Is that what you are referring to or just a hand held brush? I have one of those and tried to brush off a little area and quite honestly, that did almost nothing. Anyone in Raleigh have a blast cabinet? :D

When you bring the tie rod over tonight we can hit it with a wire wheel. I've got one at the house.
 
Ok, now I am starting to get a little freaked out about using that grinder. My friend also suggested buying a wire wheel for my drill-said it would take much longer but would work. Is that what you are referring to or just a hand held brush? I have one of those and tried to brush off a little area and quite honestly, that did almost nothing. Anyone in Raleigh have a blast cabinet? :D

I left my cabinet in VA! Sorry!

You don't have to get down to clean, white metal to paint. Just get the scale off with scrapers and wire brushes then use a rusty metal primer - even rustoleum! The Swedish Standard calls for the surface that is free from grease and oil, loose dirt and flakes. It does not have to be sand blasted clean. Then wash again and use a rusty metal primer.

Sure its ideal for it to be that clean but with a good rusty metal primer it is not mandatory. For rare body parts, yes but not for thicker metal.

Using a wire wheel on a grinder or a drill at high speed also tends to polish the metal in high spots and makes a surface that paint or primer does not like to stick to.
 
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Wire-wheeling can be dangerous. Don't use a worn out wheel - it'll throw little wires that can easily find your eye, even with safety glasses. With that said, I use them a lot, and I am very careful around edges. A tie rod, or any round surface will be far more forgiving with a wire wheel than anything with edges (where the wheel likes to catch). This same concern is there for using a cut off wheel on a grinder as well. Good air tools will lock up and save your ass vs. electric motor driven - one of these days I'll replace my compressor with one quiet and adequate of using air tools. That's the one piece of advice I would have for anyone building out their garage (shop) - don't skimp on your compressor!

:beer: R
 
The City of Raleigh appreciates the work you are doing. We're only as good as the weakest link...

Hehehehe.....that's the whole reason I want to clean them up, so the mayor will let me park in the deck again!
 
Things I learned today....
1) Johnny and Laura are awesome (well, already knew that). Big thanks to you both! :cheers:
2) The wire wheel on an angle grinder is my new favorite thing...I'll be asking for one for Christmas....if I can wait that long! :D
3) I now have a better understanding of why guys love tools so much...they are a heck of a lot of fun! :clap:

In all seriousness, thanks all for the tips everyone...rods and hardware are spotless and ready for paint and re-assembly. Gonna get it done in the next few days hopefully and get my man back on the road....missing him. :steer: All the little stuff helps newbies like me to save some time and headaches and is so appreciated!
 
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Those tie rod ends cleaned up nice, didn't they? Glad I could help :D

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The real question is: How'd you like those shelves?

Also, Laura is awesome, Johnny is merely tolerable. ;)

Those were quite nice, can I order a set for my garage? :)
 
Those tie rod ends cleaned up nice, didn't they? Glad I could help :D

Yay! Thx for the pics! I'll get some up of the hardware tonight.
 
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