craigslist Thoughts on this '89 FJ62 for $10k

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Hey acarlton, here is the email the guy sent me back. I am not interested anymore because it’s too far from me (Washingon) so don’t worry ;) I asked him why he was selling it for 10K if he hadn’t over 20,000 into it.

Here’s what he said.

“Good Morning,

Sadly, the economics of vintage automobiles just won't permit you to get back the money you put into something. That's a reality I have to live with because the market just isn't great for these trucks right now (even though they're more and more rare).

I've done an honest assessment of the numbers with my mechanic (in Alexandria who specializes in classic 4x4s) and we've come up with approx. $10,000 as being the fair market value of the vehicle today.

My truck has some really good things going for it: the frame is in really good shape, the engine and transmission work great; low miles (approx. 169,000); no weird customizing and original interior in very good shape.

By the same token, it requires some work that will be necessary in the near future: needs new exhaust; air conditioner needs a conversion kit and more freon; and several of the electric/power windows are inoperable (a really, really common thing for these trucks). Those are the major things. They'll require some $ to fix but that's why I've priced the truck the way I have (to account for these necessary repairs).

Let me know if you'd be interested in having a look and talking further.

Thanks,

Brian”
 
Low miles, lots of work done that he can document, rust fixed, original interior. Sounds like my add only the exact opposite. Curious to see your experience with this one.
 
$20k goes a long way. I'd like to see the invoices to see what he had done for $20k. 169k is low mileage for any 62. The inop rear wiper should be a simple fix - there's a connector in the DS rear panel (behind the panel for the rear washer fluid/jack) that could be the culprit or it could be the wiper module or even a broken wire in the top of the rear hatch....

AC was originally R12 - going to R134A isn't that big of a deal but will cost $$. The tranny is expensive to have rebuilt and at 169k is getting to that point. Check for grease weeping from the birfields - another expensive service if you don't do it yourself. Make sure that the heater blows hot (both front and back). Look at the wiring harness to make sure it's not chopped up. Make sure that the truck will go into 4WD - don't just trust the light on the dash - you need to watch the U-joints rotate. Make sure that both locking hubs actually lock. Check all the fuses and circuit breakers are intact and work. The issues with the door locks and windows could be the master switch on the DS door. Check the A-pillars on both sides for leaks. The seam sealer on the top is know to wear/fail (get a step stool and get a view from above and inspect the seal from the front to the back) - as is the windshield gasket - look for leaks or wet carpet. Make sure that the truck doesn't throw any codes when started - oxy sensors are fairly expensive and necessary to get even 12 MPG. Look/sniff for gas or antifreeze in the oil. Look for blue/green stains on the radiator. Watch the temp and gas gauge to see if they're constant or if they drift - if they drift then the gas gauge needs replacement (it incorporates a separate voltage regulator for the gas and temp gauges). Make sure that the tool kit and jack are tucked into the DS rear panel. Bring a magnet with to check for "body by bondo" paying particular attention to rocker panels and the bottoms of the doors.

I wouldn't shy away from this truck - just keep a keen eye on "everything". Ask questions and don't be afraid to walk if it doesn't feel right.

Good luck.
 
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