THose with Pardi Plate experience.....a question!

[ColReb1295]

instead of just relying on locktite or drilling and placing a colter pin to hold the drum steak nut in place to compensate for the thickness of the pardi plate.......would it not make sense or does anyone see an issue with having a machine shop take approximately 1/4 of an inch (pardi plate thickness) off the outside of the shaft, inside the hole, where the stake nut and washers rest. Would that not in essence put the nut back down further on the shaft where it was to start before the pardi plate thickened everything up? This should not affect anything with the e break or any components because the nut is just 1/4 inch further in....make sense?

anyone see a problem?

Really would appeaciate anyones input who sees what I am trying to do here!

 

[LC_Hamma]

There's no way your gettin a cotter pin to lock a castle nut on there & you can't use the thick OEM washer either. Looks like you can take some material off the broached splines from inside the parking brake drum. I don't think that'd be too much trouble to make it work cleanly. The customer will need to understand why it's necessary due to the shortness of the output shaft. On my 40, I shaved a nylock to fit w/a really thin washer. On my , I chose to go w/ another thin washer & a stake nut. You can see the stake nut barely hangs off the back, but there's enough thread contact + it's staked. Your is a good solution

 

[ColReb1295]

Had it bored down 5/16 deeper and to my suprise.....

its hard to see but I had the hole bored down (by a real machine shop) the depth of 5/16 of an inch deeper than stock (the exact thickness of the pardi plate). The purpose is to compensate for adding 5/16 into the configuration of the pardi plate. To my amazement after everything was together and shimmed the preload was between 3 and 4 pounds.......so I guess it worked! Now the nut is down ont he shaft and almost exactly as deep as it was before the pardi plate!!!!

YEAY!