Build This years homework

[greenbeast]

Shop class was the best, we had metal and wood working. I heard schools are bringing it back, should have never left.

Small town docs son who was couple years younger than me cut his fingers off in shop in 7th grade. My crappy gun rack didn’t sit level when done but it was cool.

Wish I had opportunity to have taken a class like this. Kids probably don’t realize how golden an opportunity they have to be doing this!

 

[bobm]

Shop class was the best, we had metal and wood working. I heard schools are bringing it back, should of never left.

Thats were I learned sheet metal and welding. Teach would pull me out of History class ( teacher was a D bag!) I got a welding job for Miller, send him up .

 

[bobm]

Shop class was the best, we had metal and wood working. I heard schools are bringing it back, should of never left.

Thats were I learned sheet metal and welding. Teach would pull me out of History class ( teacher was a D bag!) I got a welding job for Miller, send him up

I use (Zep Heavy-Duty Floor Stripper Ammonia Free Concentrate) For all my heavy duty cleaning around here (wife now uses it to clean stove top) it is readily available at all the big box stores and cheap to buy.
I've had parts washers big and small and they suck to keep clean or clean out when they get completely funky so I now have the full strength floor stripper in a spray bottle or I'll use a bus-bin if I'm going to soak parts.. I also dilute it 50/50 and use it in a spray bottle for a 409 type cleaning.

Vinegar and Massengil

 

[3_puppies]

Drew, we've got a parts washer at work. It uses a safe liquid, the washer has a heater in it which helps the liquid work.
It's nice not to have your hands cold when you are done.
I'm thinking the liquid is from Walter, IIRC we get it from General Distributing.
I can get you more info if wanted.
Paul

 

[scrapdaddy]

Our machine shop at work used full strength Simple Green and it was heated, also. Worked great, but like some said, messy cleaning the tank.

 

[REZARF]

We bought a cheap HF parts washer and a 5 gallon bucket of Oil Eater and we will cut it 1:4 or so and see how it goes. I don’t have to clean the tank out when it gets nasty! That’s a job for the rowdy boys.

Today we yanked off the springs, u-bolts shackle plates and drained the diffs. But first we had to hit both “protective” rims around the drain plugs with a carbide dremel bit to allow for a socket to get over the drain plug properly. We will weld on a bit of scrap tubing before paint to give the next drain plugs a chance. We’ll also go with allen-head plugs verses the hex heads.

We drained the rear differential first. At least a WHOLE HALF QUART of rust stained 90wt came out. No glitter, no chunks but I was SHOCKED how little oil was in there.

After making each of the boys lean in and smell the 90wt (they weren’t a fan) we talked about why the color, how much oil should be in there.

Front differential was next, clean up the protective rim, break open the drain plug and got a much better looking color oil coming out. No milkshake but that bluish grey of OLD oil. And the proper amount came out so that was nice to see.

Found this part number while looking the springs over for cracks and abnormality. A simple google search didn’t turn up much. Hoping for more markings as we clean them up. They’re in good shape and seem like they’re in good shape.

 

[RUSH55]

Whatever parts solvent you end up with, get the kids in the habit of putting on some rubber/nitrile gloves when they are cleaning

 

[WarDamnEagle]

You will absolutely want to take those spring packs apart, strip, paint and reassemble if you intend to reuse them. I did my ARB leaf springs recently. It's not hard work; just time consuming. All the details are in my build thread, post #1326 if you are interested. FWIW, sand blasting and powder coating are both not recommended for leaf springs so it's mechanical and/or chemical stripping and paint.

 

[trainbufftony]

I have found that a needle descaler works wonders on leaf springs, and any other rusted, painted or otherwise not bare steel parts.
You'll want ear protection, eye protection, lung protection and gloves for the guy using it and and also a healthy air compressor.
No greater tool for finding hidden rust or bondo than a needle scaler.

 

[REZARF]

You will absolutely want to take those spring packs apart, strip, paint and reassemble if you intend to reuse them. I did my ARB leaf springs recently. It's not hard work; just time consuming. All the details are in my build thread, post #1326 if you are interested. FWIW, sand blasting and powder coating are both not recommended for leaf springs so it's mechanical and/or chemical stripping and paint.

I’ve used graphite farmers paint before and makes them slick and goes on easy with a brush or sprayer.

Not sure yet if I’ll reuse them.

 

[tucker74]

Disassemble those packs, have re-arched, wire wheel and paint. Assemble with new pins, pads and bushings. Those old springs will ride like a dream

I used purple-power in my parts washer, non petroleum but still burns bare skin (thick dishwasher gloves). Let stuff soak overnight and it almost falls off ….

 

[REZARF]

Been using punch lists to keep the project moving… got a lot done last week.

So good to get the axles up on the benches.

This week we got a good bit done as well…

Today was all about the diff and pulling the axle shafts. Man the rear diff was nasty.

One sides been worked on but the seal is toast

The other side was a greasy/dirty train wreck. We’ll likely go ahead and do the works on the rear axle, bearings seals, brakes, new gaskets… paint and new brake lines too. Lots to do.

 

[REZARF]

Also, what are these by the rear handles in the roof?

 

[3_puppies]

Also, what are these by the rear handles in the roof?
View attachment 4043084

IIRC some 55's I've disassembled had a 3 point seatbelt, but it was a 2 piece design.
regular lap belt and then had a belt across the shoulder that you hoked into the clip of the lap belt, the shoulder was adjustable but not retractable

 

[tucker74]

Mmm - can smell the gear oil

 

[RUSH55]

Mmm

 

[riderjgs]

Also, what are these by the rear handles in the roof?
View attachment 4043084

All the Pigs I've owned had those over the rear doors. I added them over the driver and passenger doors. Holes were already there to mount them. Useful in getting in and out...especially as more sand accumulates in the bottom of the hourglass.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Found this part number while looking the springs over for cracks and abnormality. A simple google search didn’t turn up much. Hoping for more markings as we clean them up. They’re in good shape and seem like they’re in good shape.
View attachment 4042509

The old Downey catalog says the Toyota spring manufacturer back in the day was NHK if that helps at all.

You will absolutely want to take those spring packs apart, strip, paint and reassemble if you intend to reuse them. I did my ARB leaf springs recently. It's not hard work; just time consuming. All the details are in my build thread, post #1326 if you are interested. FWIW, sand blasting and powder coating are both not recommended for leaf springs so it's mechanical and/or chemical stripping and paint.

If you don't powder coat does sand blasting hurt the springs and why?

 

[AirheadNut]

What's a needle descaler?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powermate-Pistol-Type-Air-Needle-Scaler-024-0299CT/206339128

 

[WarDamnEagle]

If you don't powder coat does sand blasting hurt the springs and why?

When researching that subject I found many different opinions. In general, sanding, wire wheeling, or bead (media) blasting was regarded as okay but sandblasting was a very mixed bag. Some said it's not a problem but some said not to; including one or two spring manufacturers. IIRC it was something to do with the fact that leaf springs are shot peened and the sandblasting would or could result in surface cracking. Not being an expert on the subject myself, I chose not to sandblast but I probably shouldn't have implied that was a hard fact. Again, I found it to be a very controversial subject.

Powder coating, on the other hand, is generally baked at 400 F or higher and it appears to be a fact that subjecting springs to temperatures above 350 F will affect their annealing and, thus, their spring rate. I know you didn't ask specifically about powder but thought I would add that information.