Build This years homework
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- #342
I finally found a set of stainless M8 bolts to mount up the new to me side mirrors and gaskets I picked up from @npulver (thanks again man).
Gotta figure out a plan with the extra 43 holes the PO’s left me on both sides. Anyone got a good idea? Maybe some sort of plastic button insert?
In other news I picked up a set of roof rack mounts for a simple roof rack. Any wagon of mine will have a roof rack of some sort, they’re so practical to me. Well mount up some custom crossbars for a low buck/high function solution.
Gotta figure out a plan with the extra 43 holes the PO’s left me on both sides. Anyone got a good idea? Maybe some sort of plastic button insert?
In other news I picked up a set of roof rack mounts for a simple roof rack. Any wagon of mine will have a roof rack of some sort, they’re so practical to me. Well mount up some custom crossbars for a low buck/high function solution.
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- Thread starter
- #344
Maybe so Bob. I’m not looking to mess with paint on this one. I have had luck in the past filling holes with a copper backer but that was when I was willing to repaint the car too.
Thinking aluminum foil and touch up
Paint
Thinking aluminum foil and touch up
Paint
- Thread starter
- #345
The boys have been disassembling, breaking corroded parts free, honing fresh bores, and getting our wheel cylinders cleaned up for paint and rebuilding.
Got 8 new rebuild kits from Kurt and the gang… well pop them in as soon as the paint dries!
8 little piggy toes. Gotta keep ‘em separated.
The boys worked hard, polished up with some 600 grit and elbow grease. The wheel cylinder bodies are getting a soak in our de-rusting juice over night.
Got 8 new rebuild kits from Kurt and the gang… well pop them in as soon as the paint dries!
8 little piggy toes. Gotta keep ‘em separated.
The boys worked hard, polished up with some 600 grit and elbow grease. The wheel cylinder bodies are getting a soak in our de-rusting juice over night.
- Thread starter
- #346
Last up for the week is we’re reworking the bumper. We chopped off the bent up ends and we’re going to weld up some new ends and shape them to my liking. We need to pound some sections flat and start welding. Gotta’ love handing a 15 year old a wire wheel grinder and let him grind like his grade depends on it! Haha
If it doesn’t work out we will cut the mounting plate off and start over. I don’t like the mounting brackets as they sit. Gotta’ think through it a bit more
Couple of places we need to massage before messing with the ends caps.
If it doesn’t work out we will cut the mounting plate off and start over. I don’t like the mounting brackets as they sit. Gotta’ think through it a bit more
Couple of places we need to massage before messing with the ends caps.
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The Pig is looking good!
Post some pics of the brake cylinder rebuilds please.
Post some pics of the brake cylinder rebuilds please.
Don't forget the anti-seize to the adjusters, and impress upon your students the importance of the anti-seize...
- Thread starter
- #349
Knocking little things off the to-do list. Today’s 30 minute project was knocking up some new battery cables, a fresh one from the positive to the starter and two fresh ones from the battery to the body ground in the frame ground.
I enjoy vehicle electrical stuff more than other things we have to do on these old rigs.
I thought I’d include my process for the peanut gallery.
First start off with high-quality wire I’m using a four gauge oxygen free solid copper high strand wire. I like a heavy EDM rubber outer sleeve. I use copper lugs that have been tin plated for corrosion resistance and nylon sheathing to protect the wires from abrasion. Everything gets adhesive lined shrink wrap to seal up the ends, it’s water tight and keeps the corrosion out.
Good wire, good terminals, this one has a 3/8” hole for the battery terminals I am using. Just a standard milspec terminal.
Cut the outer sleeve so the wire fits up nice and snag against the insulate sleeve.
I have a hydraulic crimper it’s a must on heavy gauge wires/cables. It produces a cold weld and I haven’t had one come loose yet.
The crimper makes short work of big cables.
I enjoy vehicle electrical stuff more than other things we have to do on these old rigs.
I thought I’d include my process for the peanut gallery.
First start off with high-quality wire I’m using a four gauge oxygen free solid copper high strand wire. I like a heavy EDM rubber outer sleeve. I use copper lugs that have been tin plated for corrosion resistance and nylon sheathing to protect the wires from abrasion. Everything gets adhesive lined shrink wrap to seal up the ends, it’s water tight and keeps the corrosion out.
Good wire, good terminals, this one has a 3/8” hole for the battery terminals I am using. Just a standard milspec terminal.
Cut the outer sleeve so the wire fits up nice and snag against the insulate sleeve.
I have a hydraulic crimper it’s a must on heavy gauge wires/cables. It produces a cold weld and I haven’t had one come loose yet.
The crimper makes short work of big cables.
- Thread starter
- #350
Next up fitting the sleeve and heat shrink tubing over the end. Cutting the nylon sheathing sucks. If you have a tip I’m all ears.
I basically cut, keep the fraying to a minimum and use some electrical tape to hold the fray together while I slip the heat shrink tubing over the end past the tape. Remove the tape and slide the heat shrink out to the edge where I want it.
Get everything on is the hardest part of the whole thing.
All cut, crimped, sleeved, shrinked up and sealed.
About ten minutes per cable. Nice to start fresh on the electrical system. Lord knows the originals were crusty, green and brittle.
I basically cut, keep the fraying to a minimum and use some electrical tape to hold the fray together while I slip the heat shrink tubing over the end past the tape. Remove the tape and slide the heat shrink out to the edge where I want it.
Get everything on is the hardest part of the whole thing.
All cut, crimped, sleeved, shrinked up and sealed.
About ten minutes per cable. Nice to start fresh on the electrical system. Lord knows the originals were crusty, green and brittle.
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Nice work. Crimping is more reliable than soldering FWIW.
- Thread starter
- #352
Not only that but it’s also so much faster and easier!
These shears might make short work of that plastic sleeving. I love my pair, super sharp and heavy duty.
www.harborfreight.com
11 in. Shop Shear
Amazing deals on this 11In Shop Shear at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
- Thread starter
- #354
Those look good. Cutting the sheathing is easy. Keeping the stuff from fraying is the hard part. I try to burn the edge but then when you spread the sheathing open it goes everywhere. First world problems.
I wish we had a project like this when I did auto class. Man I love pigs
I was the one the teacher sent to the shop to get things done while he taught the rest of the class in the classroom.
I was the one the teacher sent to the shop to get things done while he taught the rest of the class in the classroom.
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Threads
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Yes, solder is inferior to crimping, IF the crimp is correctly applied. Soldering is for connecting to a surface, or repairs, crimping is for wire.
Crimping (a proper crimp, not some s***ty AutoZone butt connector applied by a one banana monkey with a $8.00 tool, using the wrong size connector to the wrong size wire...) will have much better vibration resistance than a soldered connection. Solder creates a brittle point at the junction and will fail before a proper crimp.
At least NASA thinks so:
Not that anyone here is crimping to NASA standards. (Example: A 16ga UL spec crimp should hold 30lbs. A 16ga NASA crimp should hold 60lbs. Mil spec is 30kg (66.14lb)).
But even NASA has situations where soldering is appropriate. (Yes, this flew into space. No, it isn't mine.)
You can do better than crimping, modern automotive harnesses are sonically welded.
This is from a Tesla battery pack. The very definition of 'high current" in the automotive world.
I like my answer better given the context of the discussion.Yes, solder is inferior to crimping, IF the crimp is correctly applied. Soldering is for connecting to a surface, or repairs, crimping is for wire.
Crimping (a proper crimp, not some s***ty AutoZone butt connector applied by a one banana monkey with a $8.00 tool, using the wrong size connector to the wrong size wire...) will have much better vibration resistance than a soldered connection. Solder creates a brittle point at the junction and will fail before a proper crimp.
At least NASA thinks so:
Not that anyone here is crimping to NASA standards. (Example: A 16ga UL spec crimp should hold 30lbs. A 16ga NASA crimp should hold 60lbs. Mil spec is 30kg (66.14lb)).
But even NASA has situations where soldering is appropriate. (Yes, this flew into space. No, it isn't mine.)
View attachment 4164652
View attachment 4164649
View attachment 4164650
You can do better than crimping, modern automotive harnesses are sonically welded.
View attachment 4164657
This is from a Tesla battery pack. The very definition of 'high current" in the automotive world.
View attachment 4164639
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Threads
- 79
- Messages
- 3,613
We don't need no frayed connections
We don't need no broken hearts
No dark sarcasm in the j-box
Hey Rush55, show us how to crimp it right
(and Rush says), "Use a Pressmaster! Crimp it good and tight!"
All in all it's just another crimp on the wire..
- Thread starter
- #360
Well, I’m sure I’m not the only one to have seen wire nuts behind the dash or under the hood. I really like my hydraulic crimper for the price, I feel like it really upped my cable game. Both for wiring and winches.
I’m not opposed to soldering either, both have their place. I think how you seal up the wire is equally important as the fastening method. I’ve switched to that glue lined shrink tube and have never looked back.
I’m not opposed to soldering either, both have their place. I think how you seal up the wire is equally important as the fastening method. I’ve switched to that glue lined shrink tube and have never looked back.