Build This years homework

[3_puppies]

So this could be factory? Looks so hokey.

I'm thinking not oem

IIRC it originally would not have an overflow/expansion tank, just ran a hose down along side the rad and dropped on the ground
between the bottle and grill next to the rad, you'll see a loop, the hose ran thru the loop down to the bottom of the rad

 

[REZARF]

I'm thinking not oem

IIRC it originally would not have an overflow/expansion tank, just ran a hose down along side the rad and dropped on the ground
between the bottle and grill next to the rad, you'll see a loop, the hose ran thru the loop down to the bottom of the rad

Thanks Paul.

 

[riderjgs]

Had a good week in the shop. The boys are getting dirty and learning as they go. We’re close to pulling both pumpkins. The rear won’t budge… might have to get aggressive. Dead blow hammer, PB blaster, pry bar… no movement. Starting to think it’s welded in place.

Front axle is nearly stripped. Gotta’ pull the pumpkin and we’re on to pulling/checking wheel bearings then clean and paint… and assembly.

Front axle is nearly there.
View attachment 4046676

Rear axle may need a bigger hammer and some prayerful intervention. Birdied and axles look to be in good shape.
View attachment 4046677

Any tricks on checking bearings? I’m a while you’re in there kind of guy and will likely just call Kurt and be done with it.

I've read on this forum and elsewhere about folks swapping front and rear pumpkins, putting the one most used (rear) up in the less-used front position and vice-versa. Rotating every half-century or so seems like a reasonable idea.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I've read on this forum and elsewhere about folks swapping front and rear pumpkins, putting the one most used (rear) up in the less-used front position and vice-versa. Rotating every half-century or so seems like a reasonable idea.

I did that per Mike's suggestion (@Lifelong40Fan). You have to swap the spacer on the pinion shaft. Otherwise the thirds are identical. Details in post 1133: Builds - A pig for Father's Day - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-pig-for-fathers-day.1144426/page-57

 

[PabloCruise]

I was surprised to see safety wire through the backing plate bolts. Pretty rad. I usually think of airplanes and race cars when I see these.

View attachment 4046169

Whoa! Coarse birfs!

 

[PabloCruise]

Use something thin, strong, and sharp like a painter’s multi tool on the rear axle. Tap it in to cut the gasket.

Or maybe a welder's tool?

 

[PabloCruise]

So this could be factory? Looks so hokey.

I don't think that is factory.
I think you would see some kind of marking like Aisin or ASCO or Denso or NP on there if it was.

 

[REZARF]

Whoa! Coarse birfs!

 

[REZARF]

Dang plopped these in the wrong thread… the boys got done with their end of the project one whole class period early… got both axles totally stripped (sans inner axle bearings, not sure I’ll replace them yet).

They high fives and smiles all around when the last Diff ker-plopped out of the housing. Good times.

@WarDamnEagle for the win with the paint scraper/tool recommendation. Thin enough to get in between the diff and housing and strong enough to take a few healthy hits from the dead blow hammer.

I’m going to clean the axles, paint them and have the new parts ready for reassembly when they return in January.

I’m going to buff the paint and stick around with a few tedious things while they are on break. A few asked if they could come work with me on their off time I told them I’d buy the pizza and Red Bull and we’d tackle a few engine and electrical things that need attention.


The front was covered in sludge but at least oily! We’re going to swap front to rear like was suggested above.

Rear diff finally gave up the bond, I wonder the last time these were separated. You gotta’ keep ‘em separated… Offspring. Good tunes.

Lots of rust on the ring gear. Didn’t seem to whine when I ran it, should clear up with some spirited driving. I’ll likely take a scotch bright pad and some rust cleaner to it. Likely left undriven for a few years at some point. The rear was so rust colored and low on oil it was nuts. However the bearings and backlash seem to be acceptable. I’ll know more after we clean them up.

Quick question, it’s been 15 years since I replace a pinion seal at the flange, can this be done without removing the carrier and pinion?

 

[REZARF]

Also moved the tires and wheels out of the shed to the school shop and rolled them up under the 55 for the visual effect, and get them out of my shed.

To me stance is everything, heck I don’t care if it runs, stops or steers but it HAS to look good.


I like the look, probably will need to do a proper lift to get where I want to be. I dig the OEM wheels but these will likely get the nod.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Quick question, it’s been 15 years since I replace a pinion seal at the flange, can this be done without removing the carrier and pinion?

That might be a quick question but the answer is a little complicated. Yes it can be done and, yes, it will probably be okay since you should have a solid spacer. However, it can't be done without removing the carrier if you want to measure the preload per the FSM. I didn't bother with removal to change my pinion seals FWIW.

 

[3_puppies]

X2 by looking at and marking the stake of the nut, I was able to see and set the nut back in the same place

 

[REZARF]

That might be a quick question but the answer is a little complicated. Yes it can be done and, yes, it will probably be okay since you should have a solid spacer. However, it can't be done without removing the carrier if you want to measure the preload per the FSM. I didn't bother with removal to change my pinion seals FWIW.

Mine are puking oil so they need to be addressed. I don't want to pull the carrier and have to reset the gears for a seal, so I will give it my best shot without pulling the pinion. I am unsure if I can get to the correct re-torque off the truck so I may have to wait a bit for the axles to be under it again. I'll pull the flange and give it the ol' looky loo.

 

[REZARF]

X2 by looking at and marking the stake of the nut, I was able to see and set the nut back in the same place

I think that is what I did last time too. Thank you Paul!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Mine are puking oil so they need to be addressed. I don't want to pull the carrier and have to reset the gears for a seal, so I will give it my best shot without pulling the pinion. I am unsure if I can get to the correct re-torque off the truck so I may have to wait a bit for the axles to be under it again. I'll pull the flange and give it the ol' looky loo.

See post 1157

Build Post in thread 'A pig for Father's Day'

Aug 5, 2025

Tackled the differential seals yesterday afternoon and this morning. New seals, slingers, deflectors, pinion nuts, and washers. Along the way I discovered that the current Toyota pinion nuts are 27mm vs the old nuts of 30mm. I had one of each on my diffs, 27 in the rear and 30 in the front. Guessing that probably means the front had never been gone into - but that's just a guess. I also noticed that the new slingers (goes between seal and bearing) are quite different. The new ones are flat and the old ones have dished edges. The bearing surfaces seemed to be about the same thickness...

• WarDamnEagle

• 
• 

 

[REZARF]

Proud of the boys, they done good!

We met our goal and got done one class session an ahead of schedule. Even had time to wipe down tools and clean up the shop. I am encouraged we made it.

Started cleaning up the diffs.

Lots of goo, grease, water, 90wt slurry. Mmmmmm. It’s tough to clean up. Gotta buy a case of brake cleaner.

I can see the bottom! Haha

Started on the degreasing of the front axle. How clean and or polished do you guys like to see the knuckle balls? Was thinking scotch bright pads and quick buff? I’ll dress the edges with a file and make sure to knock down any burrs.

Leaving her alone for a while, gonna focus on the 40 for a few days that I have off next week. Might sneak in to buff some paint. Our new engine bay hood light rocks.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Personally, on the knuckle, I just smooth out anything that will tear up the rubber wiper. You guys are doing good.

 

[PabloCruise]

Dang plopped these in the wrong thread… the boys got done with their end of the project one whole class period early… got both axles totally stripped (sans inner axle bearings, not sure I’ll replace them yet).

They high fives and smiles all around when the last Diff ker-plopped out of the housing. Good times.

@WarDamnEagle for the win with the paint scraper/tool recommendation. Thin enough to get in between the diff and housing and strong enough to take a few healthy hits from the dead blow hammer.

I’m going to clean the axles, paint them and have the new parts ready for reassembly when they return in January.

I’m going to buff the paint and stick around with a few tedious things while they are on break. A few asked if they could come work with me on their off time I told them I’d buy the pizza and Red Bull and we’d tackle a few engine and electrical things that need attention.


The front was covered in sludge but at least oily! We’re going to swap front to rear like was suggested above.
View attachment 4049750

Rear diff finally gave up the bond, I wonder the last time these were separated. You gotta’ keep ‘em separated… Offspring. Good tunes.
View attachment 4049752

Lots of rust on the ring gear. Didn’t seem to whine when I ran it, should clear up with some spirited driving. I’ll likely take a scotch bright pad and some rust cleaner to it. Likely left undriven for a few years at some point. The rear was so rust colored and low on oil it was nuts. However the bearings and backlash seem to be acceptable. I’ll know more after we clean them up.
View attachment 4049754


Quick question, it’s been 15 years since I replace a pinion seal at the flange, can this be done without removing the carrier and pinion?
View attachment 4049753

Such a solid tune!

Especially useful to listen to during wiring projects.

The key thing to do w/ these old thirds is make sure your shim hasn't spun on you. Then make sure you have proper pre-load.

 

[PabloCruise]

Such a solid tune!

Especially useful to listen to during wiring projects.

The key thing to do w/ these old thirds is make sure your shim hasn't spun on you. Then make sure you have proper pre-load.

Here is what I learned back in the day about replacing the pinion seal, and shims:

Thread 'Third Member Swap - DENIED!!!'

Jun 18, 2005

Dammit!!!

So I was getting ready to swap out my rear third member w/ a front third I got from a 1969 40...

I was doing some reading in the FSM before hand and came up with these conclusions regarding pre-load: (originally posted here)

The FSM has you set up the drive pinion and measure pinion preload. I believe at this point the ring gear and carrier are not present in the third member.

The FSM states:
Specified Preload (starting)
New Bearing 16.5-22.6 in-lb
Reused Bearing 7.8-11.3 in-lb

Then you keep going, put the ring gear on the carrier and...

• PabloCruise
• Replies: 32
• Forum: 40- / 55-Series Tech

 

[PabloCruise]

Also moved the tires and wheels out of the shed to the school shop and rolled them up under the 55 for the visual effect, and get them out of my shed.

To me stance is everything, heck I don’t care if it runs, stops or steers but it HAS to look good.


I like the look, probably will need to do a proper lift to get where I want to be. I dig the OEM wheels but these will likely get the nod.

View attachment 4049756

Yes!!!