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WarDamnEagle said:
I don't like your tire choice; it's too wide. I would try to stay 10" or, preferably, under. Plenty of choices in a 16" rim to chose from.
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I remember running 33x10.5x15s with just mild shackles and the rear re-arch. fit just fine, especially in front, they tuck really well, like they were made for it. Never run a 16", probably won't matter.
What if; you had your students simply disassemble the front springpacks, then clean,treat,paint,lubricate and reassemble rather than ordering new springs. Take the rears to the spring shop (field trip) for an historical glimpse and metallurgical lesson.
You don't need new springs unless you really want to need new springs. nice thing about old springs is you know they'll fit.
 
That's a good idea. Not sure if we have a place that re-arches springs around here. Time to do some digging.
 
Pighead said:
What if; you had your students simply disassemble the front springpacks, then clean,treat,paint,lubricate and reassemble rather than ordering new springs. Take the rears to the spring shop (field trip) for an historical glimpse and metallurgical lesson.
You don't need new springs unless you really want to need new springs. nice thing about old springs is you know they'll fit.
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This is the best advice you'll get..
You can do exactly what @Pighead is talking about but buy a generic Add-a-Leaf Kit and get the desired 1"-2' lift from the old springs you have now.
Also something of note your pig has something around 1° of caster and you will lose that when you start messing around with "ANY" lift. Plan on a cut and turn (first choice) or at least 4° to 6° caster shims.
 
I agree with what the pen has already stated, some great advice has been provided. Stay away from the shackle reversal, it creates more issues than it solves. I also fully agree that the tire size is going to be un-fun to drive on the street with stock steering. Sell those K02's and get some 33x10.50's. Stock springs will ride best unless you go Alcan/custom, I would work hard to make them work. I battled all of these things in prior rigs and will tell you 100% it's not worth messing with. btw, super cool project!
 
REZARF said:
Not sure if we have a place that re-arches springs around here.
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used to be a place in Great Falls, not sure if they are still around
another option is TNT spring, maybe in Missoula?
 
Belgrade actually.
 
J Mack said:
This is the best advice you'll get..
You can do exactly what @Pighead is talking about but buy a generic Add-a-Leaf Kit and get the desired 1"-2' lift from the old springs you have now.
Also something of note your pig has something around 1° of caster and you will lose that when you start messing around with "ANY" lift. Plan on a cut and turn (first choice) or at least 4° to 6° caster shims.
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Pretty much did what Jim suggests on the Frankencruiser, now Bonnie, using parts on hand from various purchases on Mud. Man-A-Fre add a leafs added to cleaned and lubed rear spring packs, mild extended shackles (.5" in front and 1" in rear). Ended up with about a 2.5" lift. Shocks measured to the new height, fresh bushings, and caster shims, good alignment, and it drove like a dream up to 90mph with the overdrive. Ran that setup with both 33x10.5 r15s and 235x85r16s.
 
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You would be surprised how much new bushings improve the old springs.
 
RUSH55 said:
I have run a shackle reversal for 20+ years. The theory on paper sounds great, however achieving the desired outcome requires more than what the companies offering the hardware can provide. The biggest obstacle is obtaining the proper spring length. Off the shelf lift springs are too short, causing an undesirable shackle angle, which equates to a rough ride, and over time, frame cracking. You can move the front spring hanger back to get a good shackle angle, but then the center pin in the spring packs places your axle further rearward in the wheel well. You can move the shackle hanger forward instead, but then the hanger rivets will need to be removed, and the shackle hanger rewelded back onto the frame. Since moving forward from the shackle hangers requires actually moving UP the frame, there will be a geometry change with regards to increased negative caster depending on how long the new shackles are.
The third option is to take a lot of careful measurements and have a local spring shop make you some custom length main leaves.

Shackle forward takes a lot of hassle out of the equation.

I’ll have to dig up some pics.
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Got da Shackle PO,PO, 👮👮‍♀️👮‍♂️ involved. Now ya done it 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣.
 
bobm said:
da Shackle PO,PO, 👮
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IMG_6546.webp
 
Pighead said:
I remember running 33x10.5x15s with just mild shackles and the rear re-arch. fit just fine, especially in front, they tuck really well, like they were made for it. Never run a 16", probably won't matter.
What if; you had your students simply disassemble the front springpacks, then clean,treat,paint,lubricate and reassemble rather than ordering new springs. Take the rears to the spring shop (field trip) for an historical glimpse and metallurgical lesson.
You don't need new springs unless you really want to need new springs. nice thing about old springs is you know they'll fit.
Click to expand...
Plus, new bushings!
I feel like new bushings do a lot.
You can go greasable pins, and if you do decide that you need/want different springs, you won’t be fighting 50 year old bushings.
 
J Mack said:
This is the best advice you'll get..
You can do exactly what @Pighead is talking about but buy a generic Add-a-Leaf Kit and get the desired 1"-2' lift from the old springs you have now.
Also something of note your pig has something around 1° of caster and you will lose that when you start messing around with "ANY" lift. Plan on a cut and turn (first choice) or at least 4° to 6° caster shims.
Click to expand...
Teach the kids about caster angles and how they factor into steering.
 
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So rad, thanks everyone. I think I will try re-arching the springs and a mild shackle extension (around an inch or so), I can fab those up pretty easy. New shocks, bushings, refresh the springs and add a stabilizer up front and we should be good to go. Grateful for the input everyone, thanks again!

If I remember correctly, shackle extensions are good for 1/2 of the extended length in lift? So if I fabbed up 2" over stock shackles then I would net around 1" of overall lift? Does that jive? I haven't looked into suspension stuff in decades.

Nor do I want to build 2” longer shackles.
 
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Drew, just an observation, longer shackles on stock springs can add stresses to the spring making it more likely to crack. I've seen this happen before. An economy lift might be best achieved by a long add-a-leaf. Just my .02c to try to help.
 
By the way, have you thought about selling those like new KO's and rims you have? This time of year with winter hitting this week might be a great time. Then, you could get some 33x.9.50R15 Kendas on the stock wheels which would probably fit with no re-arching. Steering would be easier, the narrow tire would work better in winter. Just a thought.
 

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Have your students measure between the fixed mounting locations on the frame and put that number in A-C then measure your existing shackle and put that number in A-B.
Now change your B-C numbers to reflect your leafspring at full droop and full compression.
Ideally you want your shackle to be 90 degrees at full droop and 45 degrees at full compression.

Play with the shackle numbers to try to get ideal geometry...
 
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