thinking about getting a '95 Tacoma, what should I look out for???

[KayakPanic]

Hi Y'All-

I have only owned older Toyotas and don't know much about the new ones.

I am looking at getting a 1995 Toyota Tacoma, 4x4, reg cab, short bed, 5 speed, 2.7 ltr 4 cyl, 168,000 miles.

Price is low because of rough body/paint.

What should I look at, or look out for with these?
what is the timing chain/belt interval for replacement with the '95?

thanks much!

 

[raydouble]

Hi Y'All-

I have only owned older Toyotas and don't know much about the new ones.

I am looking at getting a 1995 Toyota Tacoma, 4x4, reg cab, short bed, 5 speed, 2.7 ltr 4 cyl, 168,000 miles.

Price is low because of rough body/paint.

What should I look at, or look out for with these?
what is the timing chain/belt interval for replacement with the '95?

thanks much!

The Tacoma's are technically considered 95.5 (half year craziness)

There is no stated interval for the timing chain on the 3RZ engine, which is interference, but I've never heard of one breaking.

My good buddy has this exact drivetrain in his 97 taco and has 210,000 mostly trouble free miles, transmission, transfer, and diffs have performed flawlessly.

You will probably need to replace the exhaust manifold, they have an issue with cracking....but there is a factory fix using the "mini header" from a 01+ 2.7L here....
OEM mini header install for 2.7L*(Pics)* - YotaTech Forums

The only thing besides an oxygen sensor, regular tuneups and oil changes is a valve adjustment at 180,000 miles.

The only other thing to look at is the frame for rust damage...it has a recall...
Toyota extends rust warranty on older Tacoma pickups to 15 years - TTORA Forum

 

[BrotherRob]

The 95 rear springs are pretty wimpy. You may need an upgrade if they are sagging or you are doing any hauling.

 

[KayakPanic]

thanks for the replies, and the tip about the exhaust mainfold fix. I have already priced an OME lift at under $1000 for this rig so that sounds reasonable. I will probably put a lift under it, but keep the tire size reasonable.

once I get this truck, hopefully I won't have to adress too many things right off the bat. I was going to adjust the valves, do a VCG, and probably just do the timing chain stuff so I have it baselined. at least it sound like it won't have to be done immediately.

I have large Utah red rock runs planned for this rig!!! woulnd'nt want a timing chain to fail 50 miles from pavement in Utah....

 

[Hilux]

I thought the chain was a "lifetime" chain... Like the Fzj80's...

Of course any sane person wouldn't consider it, but it's not something you don't on a regular basis...

 

[Hilux]

Yeah, one it's under recall. Has the service been performed? i.e, new frame... or crushed...

Two, it's not on par with the older trucks you're used to. In some ways it's better, in some, worse.

3rd, It's not a 22RE

4th, The suspension is WAY different. Almost numb and pogo-stick like to me. I'll assume your $1,000 lift doesn't drop the diff? If so, cool. That's what you want.

5th, Is it ADD or manual locking hubs? If the latter, that's what you want. You can't lift an ADD above 2.5" (Big Jim Downey's words, not mine) or the CV's will be at to radical of an angle... And they never stop spinning.

To convert them, get ready to spend some money...

 

[Hilux]

I have large Utah red rock runs planned for this rig!!! woulnd'nt want a timing chain to fail 50 miles from pavement in Utah....

Not chain, chains... plural.

lol, not guide either... guides.... plural...

And I wouldn't get too aggressive with that suspension...

 

[twoyotas]

I have a 95.5 tacoma, bought new, but it is V6, so recalls were probably different, but there was one concerning the head gaskets. I also had to replace the water pump a couple of times, and the clutch slave once. The rear leaf springs are a common weak point (in fact, I have to replace mine right now, as the middle leaf on both sides is cracked in the center, across the leaf, not lengthwise). If you dont do a complete lift, at least change those leaf springs.

other than that, I have had no real problems, and am pushing 260,000 miles.

 

[KayakPanic]

got the truck: photos to come, I am too busy wheeling this thing. 5/95, 2.7 L, 4wd, standard cab, short bed.

I did over 250 miles in 4WD in the first 2 days of getting it a few weeks ago and saw a bull moose from the driver's seat on the first night owned.

The rear springs are totally screwed already as the previous owner hauled a snowmobile.not too worried about the suspension!

I changed the oil and filter, rear diff fluid, tranny fluid, transfer fluid, and gave up before finishing the front diff. I go to college and wrench in my mom's garage in another town. I broke a mechanics slider/dolly/whatever from pushing up too hard with the breaker bar!!! oh yeah, I switched my stock '84 FJ60 wheels and tires over, and may I say that FJ60 factory chrome wheels look SWEET on this rig (but would look way better powdercoated 'shotgun blue')!

Yeah the one thing that sucks is the frame is quite rusty, and all of the trans/diff plugs has some serious surface rust bubbles/cracks on them.
how bad does the frame have to be for them to replace it?
this one is likely worse than my '77 FJ40 was.

also found a torn front CV boot, and a gas leak at the filler neck like the recall on FJ60 Landcruisers. has anyone else had their gas tank leak here???? (some SOB threw a lit cigarette out the window the other day, i swerved)

this 2.7 L is wwaayyyy sweet compared to my 20R or 22R's past. lots of pep to be sure. never had a 22RE though...

20R had the double row timing chain and metal chain guides, as I understand it all others since have the single row timing chain, and, yes, plural plastic guides.

it has Aisin lockable/unlockable manual hubs.

was planning on a small lift, just enough to fit a 32" or maybe 33" tire. I like narrow tires for the rockcrawling I do, so I think the best I can do for the tires I want is 31 or 32"x9.5". was not planning on messing with the diffs yet, just wanted to replace the original suspension.

what is "numb and pogo-stick" to you is "not consistently getting launched, ejection-seat style, off of the bench" to me!

this is way more comfortable than my Hiluxes, but lets be honest: I am already thinking along the lines of SAS. Anyone have a good build thread for Tacoma SAS? I could search, but if anyone has done a build or has saved a good link please forward it to me...

 

[Happy Trails]

Congrats! Should be an excellent rig for exploring the beauty of Utah.

 

[twoyotas]

.

was planning on a small lift, just enough to fit a 32" or maybe 33" tire. I like narrow tires for the rockcrawling I do, so I think the best I can do for the tires I want is 31 or 32"x9.5". was not planning on messing with the diffs yet, just wanted to replace the original suspension.

mine came stock with 31/10.5/r15, shouldn't need too much lift for 33s.

 

[tromz]

if the frames rusty have it checked per recall. Toyota will buy it off you and crush it above KBB!!

 

[Sean5150]

I just did an allpro lift on my 95.5 taco, the leafs and hangers from 95.5-97 were very poor, i had to move my spring hangers further apart to fit the new longer leafs in, after a couple days of work it was very worth it, the front coilovers installed in no time. it has more than enough room for 33s on it now.

 

[Duane]

There is no stated interval for the timing chain on the 3RZ engine, which is interference, but I've never heard of one breaking.

The only thing besides an oxygen sensor, regular tuneups and oil changes is a valve adjustment at 180,000 miles.

Yes X2 on the timing chain... I haven't done mine and folks on here suggested that it will start to get noisy well before breaking or skipping so just run it as nobody mentioned they had heard of one breaking. I'm at about 190,000 miles.

So Raydouble.. I hadn't heard about doing a valve adjustment at 180K.... what are the symptoms to know if this needs to be done> It doesn't sound noisy but certainly hasn't the jam or mileage as it once did.
thanks

 

[raydouble]

Yes X2 on the timing chain... I haven't done mine and folks on here suggested that it will start to get noisy well before breaking or skipping so just run it as nobody mentioned they had heard of one breaking. I'm at about 190,000 miles.

So Raydouble.. I hadn't heard about doing a valve adjustment at 180K.... what are the symptoms to know if this needs to be done> It doesn't sound noisy but certainly hasn't the jam or mileage as it once did.
thanks

Realistically, the only way to tell is to measure. Probably time to think about looking into it. At 180,000 miles, my buddies 3RZ needed it.

 

[KayakPanic]

Allready up to 181,6xx including hundreds of miles wheeling through Canyonlands, UT on (sh)jheap weekend on Easter.

It was snowing, HA! and about half the Jheaps left the hardtops at home!:whoops:

I have replaced:
-plugs
-cap and rotor
-wires

changed:
-rear diff fluid (and had a silver barcode sticker fall into the drain pan making me think that the fluid was NEVER changed before!)
-trans and transfer fluid
-oil a bunch of times
-P/S ATF fluid
-clutch DOT3 fluid

broken:
-DS front CV joint
-possibly the bearing is toast and now failing due to me driving it with the broken CV
-DS pads worn all the way for same reason, tire on its way out too

Have been overall happy with it for sure...I LOVE THE 2.7 3rz-fe!!!

Now if I could sell my '84 FJ60 I could afford the new suspension, front seat, and tailgate that this rig deserves.

 

[KayakPanic]

oh yeah I also changed the antifreeze, adjusted the clutch, and adjusted the throttle cable as well.