cruiserfien
Black Sheep Cruisers!!
This is the 80...aka Fat Amy .... and that is my 16 yr old son who has taken it from me..
Media The MUD 100 series Photos thread (22 Viewers)
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We also had a "fat Amy" in our HS, no 16 yr wanted her!
while we are reminiscing, this is how my 1998 looked just a few weeks after I got her home:
... and that's what she looks like right now. She is ready to go to a new home.
Have you noticed any difference since replacing the lower control arms?
Photo thread - obligatory pic
Thanks for asking! To recap, I have the following new parts:
+ Dobinsons UCAs
+ OEM TOYOTA LCAs
+ 555 outer tie rod ends
+ Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro 2” lift, stage 2 (incl diff drop)
My front end creaks and my drivetrain thud went away! But I now have a strange clicking sound from the left front tire which sounds like it matches wheel rotation and gets worse as I’m turning to the left. Also more vibration in the cabin under normal driving. Trade offs
Thanks for sharing, no good deed goes unpunished.Thanks for asking! To recap, I have the following new parts:
+ Dobinsons UCAs
+ OEM TOYOTA LCAs
+ 555 outer tie rod ends
+ Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro 2” lift, stage 2 (incl diff drop)
My front end creaks and my drivetrain thud went away! But I now have a strange clicking sound from the left front tire which sounds like it matches wheel rotation and gets worse as I’m turning to the left. Also more vibration in the cabin under normal driving. Trade offs
Such a clean 100. You’ve done a great job with the build
Thank you! That means a lot!
Just today my wife was lamenting how much $$ I’ve dumped into this old thing and what we could be driving instead.
There shouldn't be any vibrations. I'd chock up the rear wheels real good, put the truck in neutral, then move the smaller transfer case lever to neutral then raise the front wheels in the air and rotate them by hand to see if you can feel the vibration in the wheel.Thanks for asking! To recap, I have the following new parts:
+ Dobinsons UCAs
+ OEM TOYOTA LCAs
+ 555 outer tie rod ends
+ Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro 2” lift, stage 2 (incl diff drop)
My front end creaks and my drivetrain thud went away! But I now have a strange clicking sound from the left front tire which sounds like it matches wheel rotation and gets worse as I’m turning to the left. Also more vibration in the cabin under normal driving. Trade offs
Also, grab each front wheel at the top and bottom and shake to see if there's any play.
I am wondering if your front bearings are causing the noise and vibration
Baller!!
EXACT same thing with mine. Installed the IM s2 kit with diff drop recently and I'm getting a super faint click when turning left. Just for a few seconds. Not an axel click. Almost sounds like the sway bar links are popping when the truck leans into the turn then it gradually returns to a straight/aligned happy place. Also have a grrrrrrrr vibration from the rear wheels when coming to a stop...sometimes. Which is why I'm thinking u-joint. Everything was just greased but I think the 200k+ miles at OEM angles wore them so now they all no longer happy. I don't know. Sometimes it's smooth, sometimes it's not. Something is moving. Probably old RCA bushings floating around? Wheel bearings are good, just did them. Thought maybe the alignment shop didn't tighten/torque the UCA's. But if yours are new Dobinsons (have them in my cart) I don't think it's my OEM UCA's.Thanks for asking! To recap, I have the following new parts:
+ Dobinsons UCAs
+ OEM TOYOTA LCAs
+ 555 outer tie rod ends
+ Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro 2” lift, stage 2 (incl diff drop)
My front end creaks and my drivetrain thud went away! But I now have a strange clicking sound from the left front tire which sounds like it matches wheel rotation and gets worse as I’m turning to the left. Also more vibration in the cabin under normal driving. Trade offs
Thanks for asking! To recap, I have the following new parts:
+ Dobinsons UCAs
+ OEM TOYOTA LCAs
+ 555 outer tie rod ends
+ Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro 2” lift, stage 2 (incl diff drop)
My front end creaks and my drivetrain thud went away! But I now have a strange clicking sound from the left front tire which sounds like it matches wheel rotation and gets worse as I’m turning to the left. Also more vibration in the cabin under normal driving. Trade offs
That sounds like CV. More pronounced at lower speeds, and matches the wheel rotation. Almost guaranteed to happen after a lift (with or without drop) on aging CV.
EDIT: to add to this, the vibration can be a number of things, but I’d also bet a new CV that it’s your old CV clicking and also causing the vibration. Gonna go out on a limb and say from 50-70mph is pretty good vibe under acceleration? If you decide to change them out, do the flanges as well. And the seal. Makes no sense to not do it all when you do it.
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Flanges and CV's are fine. Did a bearing service a couple months ago. Flanges, teeth, c clip, both nuts and washer all good. Everything is OEM. Zero vibration at speed or under acceleration. Something is moving in the rear. It's baby's butt smooth at times and rumbly as hell others. Same roads every day.
Some angle somewhere is moving over bumps or harder turns and it's leaving that connection either happy or unhappy. The drive is affected accordingly either way.
Flanges and CV's are fine. Did a bearing service a couple months ago. Flanges, teeth, c clip, both nuts and washer all good. Everything is OEM. Zero vibration at speed or under acceleration. Something is moving in the rear. It's baby's butt smooth at times and rumbly as hell others. Same roads every day.
Yeah, I’ve also noticed a huge difference in driveline issues with the diff mounts, as well as engine mounts. Also, rear control arms is another one that causes funny issues on a lifted truck.
My apologies. I thought I was responding to difflock with his new IM lift and such.
Yeah, I’ve also noticed a huge difference in driveline issues with the diff mounts, as well as engine mounts. Also, rear control arms is another one that causes funny issues on a lifted truck.
My apologies. You were responding to difflock. I was rereading the post and somehow assumed you were responding to me. I'm the idiot.
Either way the issue sounds very similar, both with recent IM lifts.
Thanks for all the input! I certainly hope it’s not drive axles . Mine are old and have surface rust and some small traces of grease near a creased boot clamp, but I was hoping I wouldn’t have to address these for a while longer due to cost of the parts and the hassle of the labor-intensive work. I was literally just in there about six months ago when I did the bearings myself. I did not use the fish scale for the preload; only tightened to 45 lb-ft., then backed off and retightened to 4 or whatever it is.Could this be the culprit?
. Mine are old and have surface rust and some small traces of grease near a creased boot clamp, but I was hoping I wouldn’t have to address these for a while longer due to cost of the parts and the hassle of the labor-intensive work. I was literally just in there about six months ago when I did the bearings myself. I did not use the fish scale for the preload; only tightened to 45 lb-ft., then backed off and retightened to 4 or whatever it is.Could this be the culprit?I guess it could be. But your symptoms are text booo drive shaft issues. Happens 9 times out of 10 with the lift on older axles. It’s an expensive R and R, but it’s one you only do once (hopefully). And the difference is unbelievable.Thanks for all the input! I certainly hope it’s not drive axles
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Having just done my bearings about six times (ended up replacing both steering knuckles after finding signs of past problems during routine maintenance) I’d encourage you to get a $7 scale and redo your preload—my inner hub nuts all needed 60+ ft lbs of torque to get into the specified preload range. No idea why the FSM specifies such low torque as a starting point—cannot imagine a scenario in which that gets you between 9 and 15 lbs resistance to rotation. Bottom line: your bearings are almost certainly too loose.Thanks for all the input! I certainly hope it’s not drive axles
But agree with others that they’re not likely the cause of the symptoms you’re describing—cvs are likely showing their age.
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