The great oil fix

[saltrig]

Hey guys,

I'm a relatively beginner . I've been leaking about 4 qts of oil a week for months now on my 91 3vze pickup. I've narrowed the leaks down to the front main seal, oil pan gasket, and possibly oil cooler as well. I've gathered all the parts I think I'll need and been all over the forums picking up as much info as I could and plan on taking the whole thing on this weekend. I just wanted some help tying up some loose ends.

1. Oil pan gasket: From what I gather I don't have to remove the PITA front diff to do this job like the FSM states. Just remove the three mounting bolts and front cross member and the diff should flex down enough at the cv's to get the pan out. Then it's just a bead of FIPG and replace. Is this correct? Has anyone done it this way?

2. Front seal:I'm going to use a chain wrench and cloth to hold the crank pulley in place (I don't feel comfortable with the starter method) and then hope and pray the crank gear comes off easy. For this job do I need to remove the radiator and front grill to get better access to the cramped 3vze? My new seal came with three identical tough paper "tabs." Probably a dumb question but I have no idea what these are for or what to do with them? Some sort of sleave? Will the old seal come out with needle nose pliers and can I tap the new one in without some special tool?

3. Oil Cooler: No big deal. I think its just worn o-rings.

Sorry for all the questions, but this is a big job for me. Any tips and hand-holding would be greatly appreciated.

 

[KLF]

#2: The starter bump method works better than you'd think, it's very easy and safe, as long as you remember to pull the main wire off the coil so the engine can't start. Just "bump" the starter, really quick with the key, it only take a quick shot. Sooo much easier than trying to hold the engine and get the nut off.

Unfortunately, you're gonna have to remove the timing belt to get to that seal, or at least the bottom timing sprocket. Do you have a Factory Service Manual?

Once you get to the seal, they can be difficult to get out. Be VERY VERY careful not to scratch the crank, or it will leak forever no matter how many seals you put in. The way I get them out is kinda unconventional, but it works really well. What I do is drill a 1/8" hole in the face of the seal, then take a long #8 sheetmetal screw and put it in this hole, then you can easily pull the seal right out. I don't know what the "tabs" are you're talking about, doesn't sound like an OEM seal to me (you'll be sorry).

I always pull the radiator when working on the front of these trucks, because it makes things so much easier and it's a very easy radiator to pull (assuming you don't have an auto tranny).

#3: I seem to remember having to replace the seals on an oil cooler once. There is a stiff coolant hose going to it directly from the water pump, I think you're gonna have to disconnect it, which will involve draining all the coolant. But, if you have the radiator out anyway, this won't matter.

 

[Hilux]

you can get an FSM in the FAQ.

And just so you know, if you ever pull the engine or do a clutch/ rear main. I have been told the bolt holes go all the way through the crank, so if you don't use any sealant, it will immediately leak. I did a rear seal one time and dind't even get it outta the shop b/f I noticed it leaking. I would have thought I installed the rear main wrong.....

Don't reuse the TB unless you just put it on. And standard practice is to do a **Toyota** belt, water pump and tensioner all at once, and while you're in there. It is too much a RPITA to have to go back and do that stuff.

 

[saltrig]

Thanks guys. I went with a Napa seal because I heard they're identical but I may end up going OEM. Here's why:

Tore everything down this weekend. Seal looked good except where I gouged it with a screwdriver getting the timing gear off. What didn't look so good was the seal around the oil pump, the seal on the baffle plate to the block, and the seal on the front of the oil pan. It was all bloated and flaky and cream colored (I thought oem fipg was dark? I think someone did a hack job) I really just wanted to throw another front crank seal in there and be done. But now I know I got to pull the oil pump and baffle plate AND the oil pan. This job went from bad to worse.

So I'll be heading to the dealer to pick up a load of FIPG and Toyota coolant (there's no substitute in my opinion) and might as well get an oem main seal as well.

I dropped the front diff 5 inches and removed the steering relay rod so I think I can get the oil pan out the front ok. BUT. . .the rear two nuts holding the oil pan on are impossible to get to. Is this a joke? They're tucked under the lip of the tranny. At this point they're stopping me from proceeding, any ideas?

Also I do have an auto tranny. When I removed the radiator I drained a lot of oil out of it. Is this motor oil? I'm confused because the FSM doesn't say motor oil is run through the radiator.

 

[Hilux]

the cooler for the AT is in the rad. they were the two little lines that ran to the rad.

did you get a Toyota belt?


and the two bolts....is it the skid plate on the oil pan what's keeping you from getting to the rear oil pan bolts?


edit: there is not skip plate on the V6...sorry.

 

[KLF]

The dark fluid that you drained out when you disconnected those bottom 2 small hoses is Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). It's supposed to be a deep crimson color. Just put some new ATF back in after you hook it all back up, you fill it via the dipstick tube. Try to estimate how much you drained out, pour about the same amount back in, then warm up the truck and check the level.

 

[saltrig]

Timing belt is in great shape. Was replaced this past year on a HG recall and despite my oil problems appeared to be untainted. The two rear oil pan nuts are wedged between the oil pan and transmission bell housing, actually up about 4 inches and recessed a 1/4 of an inch under the lip of the tranny. How you get to them without removing the transmission is my million dollar question.

I'm also wondering if I really need to remove the oil pump. Is there any way for an oil pump to externally leak except through the crank seal?

 

[saltrig]

Someone suggested removing the bell housing brackets to get those nuts. I did that tonight and the housing plate covering those nuts slid right out. Piece of cake. Oil pan came off nice, I just pounded it loose with my hand. There are two spots in the pan that the paint is flaking off. Is this a big deal? I know the FSM says not use any solvents that will erode the paint, but if i just remove any loose paint and clean it well is that ok?

Baffle plate is still giving me trouble. I think I'll try tapping a puddy knife in there to wedge it free. I'm gonna start taking pics because I haven't seen anywhere where these two jobs were done at once on a 3.0.

 

[saltrig]

Having never pulled a seal before is this oil pump normal?