Testing voltage regulator (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tlb
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- Thread starter
- #3
We checked battery before starting and meter 12.3 volts. Started it up and still read 12.3 volts. Revved engine and held to fast idle and still read 12.3 volts. It has a new battery and had alternator checked 2 different places and it checked as good. Amp meter always reads to the left of center mark.
hey Tib ,
what part # voltage regulator are you working with ?
or
post a photo , if its aftermarket , or your not sure .........
i have ALL the FSM 's on the how , when , and why in regards to your
field bench test procedures , i can post diagrams here for you
best way is the OEM TOYOTA FSM step by steps ............
Here is a good thread on voltage regulators Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works
JP
JP
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for info.
It's an aftermath vr. Not sure of part number. Do you know if the fsm is available.
This is my sons fj40. We are trying to figure out what the previous owners did and why. A lot of wires have just been cut with no idea what they ate used for.
It's an aftermath vr. Not sure of part number. Do you know if the fsm is available.
This is my sons fj40. We are trying to figure out what the previous owners did and why. A lot of wires have just been cut with no idea what they ate used for.
Attached is the current VR which is OEM and I believe correct for a '77.
Brian
This is the original VR which was replaced by the PO.
- the first , newer looking one , is a 27700-60080-84 , it covers 9/72-8/76
now toytoa disc. / NLA
- however , the old one below , is a old GREEN PLUG 27700-60100
8/'76 to 5/'78 Land Cruiser FJ40, also NLA / Disc.
- the person installed the earlier 60080 black plug , because green plug was disc. at the time ,
- i do not know , if the 60080 and 60100 are interchangeable , only barring a different plug ?
- but , the plug style change would suggest to me Very Strongly that they are Indeed
different in some significant way , otherwise why the plug change ?
both plugs are NON-WATER proof , or un-sealed , i know this fact
there is , IMO , a VOLTAGE REGULATOR expert here on MUD that will know this
answer in super HIGH tech Facts , his name is RUDY .......
let me dig up his MEGA regulator thread in MUD advance search , and return to post in shortly
now toytoa disc. / NLA
- however , the old one below , is a old GREEN PLUG 27700-60100
8/'76 to 5/'78 Land Cruiser FJ40, also NLA / Disc.
- the person installed the earlier 60080 black plug , because green plug was disc. at the time ,
- i do not know , if the 60080 and 60100 are interchangeable , only barring a different plug ?
- but , the plug style change would suggest to me Very Strongly that they are Indeed
different in some significant way , otherwise why the plug change ?
both plugs are NON-WATER proof , or un-sealed , i know this fact
there is , IMO , a VOLTAGE REGULATOR expert here on MUD that will know this
answer in super HIGH tech Facts , his name is RUDY .......
let me dig up his MEGA regulator thread in MUD advance search , and return to post in shortly
that puppy looks NOS !
it is indeed now NLA / DISC.
i got one of the last ones in the usa market to keep for reference , I Custom make
Reproduction ones using a NON-USA first generation regulator platform ,
unless there not compatible , it's doubt full what you have there is bad ....
ill give you a solid idea i use to diagnose low AMPS / Voltage output issues
on Vintage TOYOTA's :
- u need a solid Rubber mallet , small one
- or , a med. size ball peen hammer .....
- hook up your diagnosis meter you have going on , and start the engine
- let it warm up to normal operating TEMP.
- verify your low Voltage readings one more time , don't skip this step
- while looking directly at the meter , digital i hope ?
- give the side of the Alternator , towards the rear , a Light to Light-MED. dead blow with the mallet , one time only ,
- now , please understand , a Light to MED wack only , don't hurt it ..........
- see if your meter readings fluctuate ,
- if not , try several light whacks to med ones , solid face smacks , not to hard now ............
- if no meter changes , then switch up to the ball peen hammer , use the large flat face side , LIGHT wacks only here , looking at meter whole time continually
- what your looking for is the meter to deflect , or spike up for a few seconds or longer , this can and does indicate worn brushes , or bad brush to Rotor / Stater
part / thing in rear of your alternator .............contact
- it can fix your low voltage issue even for a few days or a day or two at best ......
- if you get a positive test result here , pull your alternator off your truck ,
and contact @FJ60Cam , Cam and Mosley Motors , are My 1 stop
NipponDenso , alternator Restoration and repair shop , here on MUD
theirs nobody else out there who will fix you up SOLID for a better end product value , but CAM .....
he is also a MUD SUPPORTING VENDOR , his work is un-matched in
My TEq little world ,,,,,
preform this simple diagnoses test , and lets see what's what with all that ....
and remember , dont hit the thing too hard .....
Coolerman
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Before getting too involved in testing the regulator, have you checked to see if the engine fuse is blown? That fuse is what sends +12V to the White/Red wire on the regulator. No +12V there means regulator no worky...
midknightc3
SILVER Star
Resurrecting an old, my wifes `74 FJ40 has long had over voltage (~15.5-16V), so per the thread HERE I tweaked the VR bar just a hair down. Seemed great, but 3min into a test drive it stopped charging at all. I tested the alternator per @Pin_Head direction HERE and the voltage jumped up to 14V, so it seems the alternator is fine. So, my question is, what could I have screwed up in the VR? This thing looks pristine inside, is there actually a way to test the VR components to see what went bad in there? I'm half wondering if there isn't a short somewhere else along the line that has me chasing my tail, but I haven't seen anything and all grounds are good.
Thanks!
Clark
Thanks!
Clark
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Last time I checked, they were still available from the dealer (Toyota Part# 22700-40010-84) ($27.00)
midknightc3
SILVER Star
Indeed, shouldn't be too hard to chase down a replacement, though most (including the one you list) actually use a different plug. Mine has the old school black female plug on it. I'm just super surprised it failed like that given how good it appears to be. Strongly considering swapping out the whole setup for the FJ60 internally regulated alternator I have sitting on the shelf though.
midknightc3
SILVER Star
I completely forgot to mention that, I did bend it back up half a hair with no change. Did another half a hair and again, no change.
