Temp gauge climbing when pulling hills

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Joined
Jul 25, 2006
Threads
32
Messages
239
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Alright, I'm intentionally placing this in the CSC forum and NOT in the general 80s tech forum. I have read the countless a very thorough discussions there about engine cooling issues/solutions with FZJ80s and frankly, there's one dude who is a blathering bundle of confusion and I'm intentionally trying to avoid his input (no, it's not you, Kevin :flipoff2: ). Anyhow...

I took the cruiser on its first real stress-test this weekend -- the trip up to Flagstaff and back. As you guys know, the hill climbs both ways are great for exposing any weakness your cooling system may have, and I tried it with the AC running full blast and OD off just see how it would hold up. About 1/2 way up the climb out of Black Canyon I noticed the neddle started to creep upward and immediately kicked the OD back on and allowed the RPMs to drop. AC was still on and never shut off. It stabilized until the last stretch up and out of the climb and onto the plateau when it started climbing again, but not much.

Pulling the major hills up into Flagstaff I had similar results but this time it got hot enough to cut out the AC. I shut off the AC and it stabilized, but remained slightly elevated until the climb tapered off and the engine could run reasonable RPMs.

On the drive back home the big hill out of Camp Verde was the big challenge and I did this one entirely without the AC on. It did well until about the last stretch to the top and the temp gauge started to climb slightly.

I am reasonably confident that all of my cooling systems are running well -- fan clutch is strong, radiator, water pumps, thermostat are fine; radiator cap was recently replaced. I guess I'm just wondering if this is typical and expected for us 80 owners out here in AZ, or if mine experience was a-typical and I should have reason for concern? For those of you who have had this problem and have sought solutions, did an electric pull-fan in front of the condensor make a difference in cooling when pulling hills? If not, what else can we do? An additional tranny cooler? An oil cooler? Hell, I want to be able to drive this thing straight up a cliff with RPMs running at 3500 for hours on end without it over heating. I'm willing to stuff Eskimos and penguines in the fecking system if neccessary, but I want the damn thing to run cool under all conditions at all times. Other vehicles pull those hills regularly and don't have to watch their RPMs or turn off their AC and this is what I want to accomplish.

Your thoughts?

Ed
 
This is not normal. If your thermostat is new and fan clutch is working well, then I would look at the radiator next. I had similar problem a few months back, neddle started to creep upward when I idled with AC on for 10 mins when it was 105F out there (don't ask me why I did that). I had the radiator cleaned by a rad shop and it is running fine so far.
 
Sorry- you can't avoid me by coming here! :flipoff2:

I agree with medtro- not normal. If you had said the needle climbs slightly I wouldnt be alarmed, but if the A/C shuts off it's getting way too hot. I run my truck on 35's with stock gears all over the place (including up north) with no problems- even running at 60 mph in second trying to catch up with Kevin. In my wife's stock '95, I towed a car trailer through Flag to Holbrook, picked up a Nissan p/u and ran it back to Phx, then turned around and went back to Sunset Point (top of the hill out of Phoenix) to pick up the Astrovan that blew it's engine towing the trailer that far. I had one eye glued to the temp guage and it didn't flinch, and this was about a month and a half ago (hot as hell). That truck has a new radiator and thermostat in it, mine has a 75K mile radiator and new thermostat.

What gives you confidence in your radiator? I'd look there. I assume your thermostat is in correctly, with the bleeder hole at the top. I would think any problem regarding that would be more extreme. I always look at water flow when the symptoms show up at speed, and I look at air flow if it overheats at idle.

-Spike
 
Good to know, guys. I have absolutely no problems driving around town at any ambient temperature, even in extended rush hour traffic. It was only at load going up hill that it started to creep. I flushed the radiator shortly after I bought it and it eventually ran clear with a good steady, seamingly unobstructed flow. I filled it with a 70/30 mix of deionized water and Prestone, topped off with a bottle of Water Wetter. I had some coolant boiling issues after that that were resovled by replacing the radiator cap and it's been running a perfect temp around town and on the highway ever since. As far as the thermostat goes, I'd assume it would manifest itself during normal driving if that were the problem.

I'll check the front of the grill to make sure there are no obstructions. There doesn't appear to be an yexternal clogging of cooling fins. Does anyone have one of the cool laser guns that tells you the temp of what you're shooting? I suppose that would be the easiest way to determine if there are internal cool spots in the radiator indicating blockage.

Ed
 
Sometime it is hard to tell from the flow if it is not BADLY clogged. I took mine to the rad shop, they did a quick flow test and told me it wasn't clogged. I asked them to rod it anyway because I knew it was clogged. I have the thermometer if you want to probe the rad.

I read Prestone is not good for your head gasket. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=98064
 
I've also heard bad things about WatterWetter, but I don't remember what or where. I'd second the thought that flow is hard to judge, and Harbor freight (gotta love 'em) has a 'laser' temp probe for sale cheap right now- just saw it in the circular- I'm thinking it was around $30.

-Spike
 
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