TBI TPI? Can I get a V8-> English translator?!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The Ranger IS the adapter between the gm engine and the Toy tranny. The Mark's or AA or Downey adapter is one pathway to adapt, as in,
5.7 GM motor-x , y or z bellhousing Adapter-Toy Tranny (with either GM or Toy clutches)
OR
5.7 GM-Ranger-Toy Tranny
OR
5.7 GM-GM tranny (auto/manual)-AA adapter-Toy transfer case

As a side note, maybe the gearing situation is something that you arent aware of. At some point you'll want to regear the f/r diffs to match the tire size you have now. Just like starting up a hill in second gear makes little sense, likewise running big tires with the stock diff gears. Remember the size of the stock tire? it was a 28-29 in street tire. What you've got now is roughly a 15 percent OD in every gear, making it harder to get up to speed, and once there making you think the truck is slower than actual 'cause the speedo is only accurate with the stock tire size. When you read 70 in the speedo, you're probably going 80. Now the truck IS a dog with the 2F, but it wasn't built with a motor for freeway cruising in mind, but rutted beat up dirt roads in some far corner of the world. To make your 60 more freeway friendly you may swap the motor out, but unless you dot the is and cross the ts with the install of the FI motor, the mileage will suck (less than 10 mpgs) and That will sour you on v8s real fast. Keep researching the topic, thre's guys here that have sweet setups, that have power AND economy, looks AND function, boobs AND Brains, er... what was the question....?

cheers
 
I understand the gearing issue and I'm planning to go to 4.11s or maybe the 4.56s in the not too distant future which is part of the reason I'm considering the ranger OD (and acutally the underdrive one) and also understand that the spedo is off. With that said. I don't quite understand what you are saying about the adapter kits. I'll look into downey this evening. Let me ask it this way, can I go:

Chevy 350 TBI -> bellhousing adapter -> toy tranny and keep my clutch? Man-a-fre sells a new flywheel so I can use my starter etc. Thus all I would need would be motor mounts, bell housing adapter, magic temp sender to plug in toy harness to GM motor and flywheel, right?

Then the other thing I'm looking at would be:

Chevy 350 TBI -> Ranger -> toy tranny
From what I've read going SB can acutally improve the gas milage. I'm expecting to get between 12 and 15 mpg. Which is basically what I was getting in the 2F but also being about to maintain speed.

Thanks for the continued patience with ignorant qustions! I used the "search" and "tech section" but they didn't answer the adapter questions

Chris
 
It sounds like your up for a major project, so go at it! Make sure you end up with a decent fan shroud. The v8 swaps I've seen with nice belt driven fans and proper shrouds seem to perform well and stay cool.
 
I'm hoping the stock set up will keep it cool long enough to switch to an electric fan that I can shut off when I ford deep water. I'm planning on bedlining the interior and gettin in real deep this summer! Deepest yet was up to the hood going upstream headlights fully covered...
 
Ok, after another couple of hrs or research I have more questions. It seems as though everyone makes a kit. Man-a-fre, marks, AA, downey. I know there are a bunch of guys here that have done the V8 conversion and if you guys could post up with what kits you used that'd be awsome.
Here come the questions:
Man-a-fre lists a new pressure plate and clutch disk under the parts for the conversion, I'm assuming this is just because it's a good idea to do the clutch while you're in there? $650 for adapters and flywheel.
The Marks kit seems to come with everything at $900 I'm going to call AA tomarrow and find out if the Marks kit on the OZ site is the same one they're distributing in the USA. Mark's mentions a different kit for "internally" vs "externally" balanced motors. What's the difference and what am I dealing with?
The Downey kit says it requires "a special TO bearing and retainer" I'm thinking I should probably spend the money now to stay away from "special" parts espically wear items. $550 before the special parts.

If anyone has insight to these that'd be great
Thanks again
Chris
 
Not to discourage, but rationalizations aside here are the facts:

1. It will take you much longer than you expected.
2. It will cost you twice as much, or more, as you planned. A $2K V8 in a 60 isn't realistic. Even if you found the cheapest motor possible, it needed nothing and you never paid a cent in labor to anyone, the little things like custom power steering hoses, AC hoses and charging, exhaust system (this is a bog one), wire loom, carb cleaner, half a dozen OEM rubber hoses for this that and the other, and all the "while you're in there" items and bad part discoveries...well, you get the picture. It adds up quickly.
3. If you do it right, don't cut corners, pay attention to detail, and don't ever expect to recoup your investment by selling it, you'll ne really happy.
 
Yup, I feel like I have adressed most things you mentioned except for the wire loom... I'm assuming that's in reference to wiring the chevy motor to toy harness? Either way, some more insight or sources for more info on that would be awsome.
Greg, did you use one of these kits to do your V8? Or have any thoughts on the ones I'm looking at?

Thanks, keep the advice coming
Chris
 
No one really sells a "kit" that would include everything needed but you'll need some sort of adapter to either the Toy tranny or transfer case.

I used a Marks adapter because I already had the Toy 5 spd and it allowed me to keep the stock drivelines, etc. Easiest swap config IMO.
 
Just a question, do you expect your 2F to turn larger tires with 3.70 gears? Maybe that is why the 2F seems weak to you because you do not have the correct gearing for the tire size you have??? Did you also know that your 2F puts out more low end torque before 1400 RPMs than the stock 350 you will be putting in? But the 350 has more top end for sure. Also, you can get cheap 4.11s out of an FJ-62, just find somebody who has re-geared their FJ-62. Just some food for thought. Maybe if you change the gears first you will realize that the 2F isn't that bad. Or you could retain the 2F and install the H55F toyota 5-speed manuel tranny. It gives you the same ratio as you would have with your 4-speed and 4.11s in first gear. And if you have a mid 85 or newer FJ-60 it drops right in. You can get those at Toyota for around $1600.

I have been thinking of these swaps for a little while. Do you plan on just changing the 2F and retaining the H4X and the Toyota T-case? That is the best for your situation is seems because you do not want to change the rear axle because if you haven't noticed LC pumpkins are on the passenger side. In that case you could use the Advanced Adapters adapter to mate the 350 to the H4X Toyota tranny bellhousing. You may have to modify the adapter, but that may be for when you install it on the FJ-62.

Somebody mentioned the ranger overdrive and that would work too.

OR, you could do it right and buy the american motor and tranny together and use something like the Marlin crawler box ($1600-$1800) as the adapter to the Toyota T-case. That is probably out of your price range but it is a very very capable option, and additional 4.7:1 reduction. You probably wouldn't need gears.

I would personally put in an Onan diesel instead of the 350. The diesel has the same bolt pattern as the 350, turbo possibilites, and lots of low end torque!! BUt that is the next conversion I try. We are now in the process of swapping our extra 3FE/A440F/T-case into a Fj-55.

When I rebuilt 3FE at 300,000 miles for the first time in its life I was thinking of the 350 swap but I was realistic about it and I knew I didn't want to do it ghetto style so it was going to cost $5,000-$6,000. So I rebuilt it for less than $2500 with all Toyota parts, and I raised my compression. (the $2500 included machine work, rebuilt head all new engine OEM bearings, push rods, lifters, cam, oil pump, seal and gasket kit, and $800 for the pistons and rings!!) I did all of the work (except the amchine work) myself. Now I know that it is no V-8, but I am very happy with the result.


I'm not sure why a used running 2F costs $1000, hell I could probably find a used running one for free!!!

http://www.cruiserparts.net/parts/fj60.htm

You can find one there for $500 but I'm not sure about shipping. I just rebuilt my motor and T-case and I ran into about $1000 of stuff I didn;t plan for. But I don;t like to do things half assed so I guess it could have been a little cheaper. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
Aseif007 said:
Did you also know that your 2F puts out more low end torque before 1400 RPMs than the stock 350 you will be putting in?
Click to expand...
This is a pure (but apparently appealing) myth. The 2F produces max torque of about 210 ft-lbs at 1,800 RPMs. The basic GM truck TBI 350 produces 300 ft-lbs. The 2F has a very limited useful RPM range as compared to V8s.
 
Sounds like you are pretty set on a V8. Just to throw my two cents in: I have an 82 FJ60 with 242,000 miles. The truck gets driven hard everyday on and off road. The bottom end on the thing has never been touched. I just had a valve grind done and the head surfaced at a local shop for 150 dollars(+60 for a new head gasket). I just rebuilt the carb for ~30 for the kit. It has a MAF header and Local shop exhaust. It's no V8 but it goes like a bat outta hell, starts and accelerates easily with 33" tires. I hear so many people write these engines off because of one little thing. In reality, there is something there that is causing it to be a dog. Fix it and get on with modding your truck appropriately (gears, locker, lift, tires, bumpers, OBA, etc.) Rather than spending thousands of dollars on a motor you'll have to fix constantly and rebuild at 75K with hard use and doesn't really increase value all that much.
 
RredFJ40 said:
Rather than spending thousands of dollars on a motor you'll have to fix constantly and rebuild at 75K with hard use
Click to expand...
Another myth. With regular maintenance any modern V8 engine will go 200K without a tear-down. There are plenty of cruisers running around with former police car engines that have had hard lives and still run great. And while I only have 12K miles on mine without anything having broken, when that part is needed I can walk into any retail parts store in North America and get it off the shelf.

Not 2F bashing, but for many 60 drivers it is not the best option.
 
However, with the budget he's talking about, he won't be getting a brand new GM crate engine or even a mid-nineties TPI. He'll be getting a mid 80's engine with God knows how many miles and rebuilds on it. Factor in the cost of the engine, a rebuild, and everything required to put it in and it starts to make more sense to build a strong, reliable 2F. I live in a good ol' ford and chevy town, even my local parts supplier (not napa, shucks, etc) can get me parts overnight when they don't have it on the shelf. Not to bash, but I can see by your sig that you have a good deal of expendable income. Someday I hope to be there. But right now, I know where this kid is coming from (though it sounds with his planned mods and time frame, that he has more money or help than me) V8 conversions just don't make economic sense. I'm probably too practical. Flame Away!!!!!
 
love this thread...

my long term plan was to go the cruisergreg route with a 350tbi coupled with the h55f and for now i still plan on going that direction, one day, but this thread might shed some light on other assholes, i mean opinions...

:D
 
ouch, I don't mean to come out that way. I'd love all those things, but sometimes money and plans just don't mesh. Heck, I'd love to sell mine and just import and HJ61 but....... Sometimes you have to be happy with what you've got, I'm trying to justify my status right now. :)
 
RredFJ40 said:
ouch, I don't mean to come out that way. I'd love all those things, but sometimes money and plans just don't mesh. Heck, I'd love to sell mine and just import and HJ61 but....... Sometimes you have to be happy with what you've got, I'm trying to justify my status right now. :)
Click to expand...

no no no. i didn't mean it in a mean spirited way at all. i was just being my regular smartass self.

believe me, i'm in the same boat as you are. i would love to be able to do what cruisergreg has done, or as you suggested importing a hj61 would be just as rad. i was preaching the same thing as you earlier in the thread. i would go the 2f route or repair of the 2f, if it were me and i had no $$$ etc.

:cheers:
 
RredFJ40 said:
Not to bash, but I can see by your sig that you have a good deal of expendable income. Someday I hope to be there. But right now, I know where this kid is coming from (though it sounds with his planned mods and time frame, that he has more money or help than me) V8 conversions just don't make economic sense. I'm probably too practical. Flame Away!!!!!
Click to expand...
Ahem, disposable income aside...I've been where TheGr8Doughboy is (you should have seen how I kept my 40 on the road in college). But that's why I originally said his $2K budget didn't come close to doing a swap.

And there IS no economic rationalization for a V8, never said there was. But I spent 3 years trying to get my 2F to the point where it would pull my truck to my satisfaction and it wasn't going to happen. Did a desmog, header, carb rebuild, regeared the pumpkins, lower geared tranny, free flow exhaust, even did the 2F TBI thing. I had the sweetest running 2F around. Everything helped a little but not enough.

My truck empty weighs almost 3 tons with body armor etc. I live and do most of my driving at over a mile high (figure a 20 - 30% powerloss over sea level) and push 33s. I need to tow a 1,200 lb trailer from time to time. After a trip home from Tucson where I had impatient 18 wheelers pass me on blind curves on a two lane mountain road (not safe!) I'd had it.

A swap is really not a necessity for most 60 owners, but for a few it is.

FWIW, my gas mileage did improve ever so slightly with the V8 because I didn't need to be flooring the go pedal just to keep up with traffic on the highway.
 
there we have it again, the great 2F v. V8 debate rolling along...again...
doughboy is obviously touching a raw nerve mong 60 drivers, 'cause this one never gets put away neatly, like say, how to do a SOA, or how to get the horrible seat replaced.

FWIW, there seems to be both sides of the fence represented here now. The 2Fers (me included) that both are pissed at the poor hillclimbing and like the simplicity and Terminator-like resilience of the oem motor. Also the 2Fers that put a header, cam, and desmogged to get a pretty hot sounding and running I6.
On the other side the V8ers that hated every minute of the debugging following the transplant, to the "knock on wood-I got it running right-for now" current stage, and the ones that are pissed that the damn thing left them stranded when some relay went bad, or intank-pump failed or o2 sensor crapped out. Also the V8ers that look around saying "what? how can you mess up that simple of an install! it's like 5 or 6 wires! can't you solder?! or use a test light?!" "I get 18mpg with 300 horses" and stuff like that...

My personal experience with TBI BBC was rather negative. The truck (1ton GMC) ran great when it did. When it broke, the hassle of troubleshooting it without a manual was almost unbearable. Mileage sucked (6-8mpg) and power was ok. As a whole tho, I still think that GM doesn't make junk motors, that experience aside. In particular, the Vortec MPFI has a sweet disposition and good power and should be simple to tshoot. But how does that measure up against a truck that goes 200 miles on a dead alternator, slowly draining the Optima with headlights and wipers on (no alternators in town that day in Moab) and faithfully drives home? in my experience a FI truck needs a solid battery and alternator to even be trubleshootable. Not so with carbed, manual trans trucks that can start with a bump and put but a small drain on the battery (the coil). I think that in your situation (in college, um, like me...though I'm like the oldest living junior) the best choice is to fix the head gasket, and save yer $$ for the swap down the road, when you've had a chance to learn some about fixing mechanical and electric breakdowns. Otherwise, you'll sock yer parents with a disabled truck for a while.
just my 2 cents, no offense meant...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom